August 8, 2009
by Ariel Adams
Angular Momentum is about to release a sensational dive watch the likes of which I’ve never seen before. Most of Angular Momentum’s design are polarizing, so I don’t expect each of your to like this watch, but enough of you will appreciate the interesting concepts that went into it. Like the Pita Barcelona Oceana watch, this is a uniquely artistic rendition of a dive watch that is art, but also heavily focuses on diving utility. So just because it doesn’t look like all the Rolex Submariner clones out there (and Rolex Submariners themselves), does not mean this is not a admirable diving tool. So lets jump right into discussing this new Dive-Tec/500 watch.
The 46mm wide case (by 17mm thick) is done in Staybrite 1.4435 NCu steel that is higher quality than 316L stainless steel used on most steel watches. Rolex Sea Dweller watches watches (especially the Deep Sea) use Staybrite steel as well. It might be the same formulation. Why is it over 316L? Because this type of steel has a special resistance to the corrosive and discoloring effects of salt water – which is nasty stuff. Just live on a coast and see what water does to thing that are exposed to it for long enough. Caseback of the watch is not screwed down, but instead has a thick sapphire crystal as the caseback which is specially sealed using a unique gasket. It is not user removable, but needs to be taken into be opened up. Angular Momentum says this style of caseback offers superior water resistant security than a screw down caseback. Plus the caseback will remain water resistant after other types of casebacks on diver watches need maintenance to ensure resistant to water seeping in. The crystal comes in different colors (all lume actually so they glow brightly), or it can be ordered to be transparent for a view into the automatic Swiss movement.
The stye of the lugs represents Angular Momentum’s new Time Gallery style case, and looks interesting on a dive watch. Really helps add heft to the case which slightly reminds me of those popular large Russian style diver watches. Adding to the tool-like composure of the watch is the brand and bezel retaining screw. The crown of the watch is meant to look like a valve release – nightly reminiscent of dive tools. It is steel and coated in something called lemon gold for the brass tone. Makes me think of plumbing. You then have a round screw on the bezel which is used to secure the bezel down and prevent accidental turning. Both this screw and crown have intentionally been created in a larger than life size to help emphasize the tool like nature of the watch.
Adding to this quality is the fact that certain surfaces of the watch are left looking a bit “raw.” This is seen on the sides of the large bezel and on the hands. Angular Momentum watches to enhance the industrial feel of the watch so it did not “finish” these parts after then came out of the laser cutting machine. My opinion is that the look is quite interesting and artistic, especially when contrasted with the polish of the bottom part of the case.
Both the bezel and the dial feature a special Angular Momentum only luminant called Email Luminuese. This amazing lume is a combination of luminant and enamel. I can personally attest to the fact that it far exceeds the lumination (and length) of most other lumes out there. As applied here, you’ll probably be shocked at how bright the watch gets. It is not only functional, but a statement unto itself that people seeing you wear the watch will notice. The entire dial marker array is made up of the Email Lumineuse lume – and it outlines the hour markers in a simple and pleasing way. Basically the lume is the dial. Angular Momentum uses different colors of the lume for the watch t0 help with legibility, plus it looks damn cool.
Don’t be concerned if the Dive-Tec/500 still feels really different – because it sure is. Even though you recognize it as a dive watch, it is an artsy piece. I can easily admit that. Some of it is almost like a cartoon. With the large strong looking hands, almost loony hexagonal crown, and wild appearance it is not a subdued watch. It shouldn’t, and is a inspiration creation from a watch company that I am proud to say takes risks. You might not want to wear your Angular Momentum Dive-Tec/500 watch everyday, but the urge to wear it will arise more than I think you can suspect. The Dive-Tec/500 watch is mostly all made at Angular Momentum’s atelier in Switzerland. Plus, given the “raw” nature of some of the watch, each piece is going to be just a little bit different. Something to look forward to. While not a limited edition per se, the watch will see strictly limited production. It is available with a calf leather strap (as seen) or a silicon strap for real diving duty. Price will be around $7,500 soon. For more information, contact Angular Momentum here.[phpbay]angular momentum, num, “14324”, “”[/phpbay]