July gave us a slew of exciting new watch releases, with Longines and TAG Heuer unveiling compelling new interpretations of classic models from their respective back catalogs. Ulysse Nardin dropped three limited edition models of its avant-garde “UFO” table clock, while Zodiac launched three white ceramic variants of its popular Super Sea Wolf dive watch. Lastly, Massena LAB collaborated with Revolution Magazine on a polarizing re-interpretation of a rare Patek chronograph. In other news around the Web, we sit down with A. Lange & Söhne’s director of product development Anthony de Haas to explore how the brand’s design language and ethos have evolved over time. We’ll also revisit the cult-classic Universal Geneve Polerouter, Gerald Genta’s first significant contribution to horology.

1. Hands-On: Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase Watch

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It’s no secret that Longines does some of the best heritage re-issues in the biz. New for 2023, the brand has expanded its Flagship Heritage collection in a classy, understated take on the moonphase complication. Clocking in at 38.5mm in diameter, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase sports a mirror-polished steel case and is available in three separate colorways: silver, ivory with gold accents, and blue sunburst. Despite its limited practical application in today’s world, the moonphase is arguably the most old-world, romantic complication in the book. That said, there aren’t many compelling moonphase watches at an attractive price point like this one. I had a chance to try this piece on, and I can confirm that it wears like a dream and punches far above its weight. In this article, our Sean Paul Lorentzen goes hands-on with this heritage charmer, explaining in depth why it’s such a great release.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

2. Time Machines: Savoring The Joy Of Bespoke With The ‘60s Breguet Empire Watch

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When considering the collectability of Breguet, it’s important to take into account the trajectory of the brand and how it has changed over time. Long before its affiliation with Swatch Group, the brand found its stride in the 1960’s creating one-off, bespoke watches that were truly made to order. Like the watches of Breguet’s current Classique collection, these bespoke pieces often featured what would become the brand’s signature design cues: engine-turned dials, Breguet hands, and elegant coin edge cases. This article zeroes in on a particularly compelling example of the Breguet Empire from the 1960s, currently offered by vintage watch retailer Oliver and Clarke. While all of the details of this piece are charming, my favorite has to be the guilloche dial. Between the concentric brushing of the hour ring, the clous de Paris texture of the main surface, the accent rings separating the different sections of the dial, and the even, honest patina throughout, there are so many details to enjoy here.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

3. New Release: Ulysse Nardin UFO Clock Final Editions

In 2021, Ulysse Nardin reimagined its classic marine chronometer ship clocks in the form of a new table clock aptly named the UFO. Standing for “Unidentified Floating Object,” the UFO’s shape is inspired by the shape of nautical buoys. As such, the pill-shaped glass structure of the clock feature tungsten weights inside of them, allowing the clock to wobble and move with up to 120 degrees of motion, while always self-correcting and returning back to its original upright position. Upon its initial release in 2021, the UFO clock quickly sold out, and a one-of-a-kind orange example went on to fetch a sum of more than six figures at the Only Watch charity auction. New for 2023, the brand has unveiled three “final” versions of the UFO table clock in three different colorways. It’s a real treat to see a brand experiment in such an out-of-the-box way. Not only is the UFO a true conversation piece but it also pays tribute to Ulysse Nardin’s rich history in producing marine chronometers and other table clocks while also representing the brand’s aggressive, decidedly industrial approach to modern watchmaking.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

4. Hands-On Debut: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Watch

This month, TAG Heuer dropped a modern interpretation of their iconic “Skipper” ­­– a regatta (yacht racing) chronograph that features a colorful dial with a 15-minute countdown recorder that’s divided into three five-minute segments. Though only a few hundred of the original Skipper were produced, the Skipper is perhaps one of the most well-known and collectible references in Heuer’s history. The colorway is unmistakable, utilizing a deep blue sunburst dial with bright orange, green, and blue accents. The updated Skipper is part of TAG’s brand new Glassbox family, boasting a 39mm case and the brand’s in-house chronograph movement. However, the movement inside the Skipper has been modified for this particular watch, with a 15-minute chronograph register, as opposed to a 30-minute register. Here, TAG has done a masterful job of recreating an icon, yet in a modern voicing. This one’s sure to be a crowd-pleaser.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

5. New Release: Zodiac Introduces Super Sea Wolf White Ceramic Watches For The Summer

Zodiac’s Super Sea Wolf diver features a design that lends itself nicely to different colorways and configurations, and the brand has gotten significantly more creative with its recent variations of the watch. Last year, the brand unveiled its first titanium interpretation of the design – a piece that featured a striking seafoam and orange colorway, with a fully lumed bezel. This year, the brand has continued to push its creative boundaries, utilizing meteorite dials, a chronograph complication, and now, brilliant white ceramic cases. Using popular colorways such as the “Watermelon,” “Carolina,” and “Creamsicle,” these new interpretations of the classic diver jump off the wrist with a fun, summer-ready appeal.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

6. Massena LAB x Revolution Uni-Racer 1949

Massena Lab and Revolution just released a new collaboration timepiece –the Uni Racer 1949. Inspired by a legendary Patek Philippe chronograph from 1949, the piece features a black lacquer dial with a luminous Roman numeral sector ring, and luminous syringe hands in blued steel surrounded by a tachymeter. While the original Patek chronograph now holds a market value of more than seven figures and is pretty much unobtainable, this piece aims to “channel the emotional expressiveness” of the classic at a much lower price point. Upon its release, the Massena Lab x Revolution Uni Racer 1949 was immediately met with a fair amount of criticism within the watch community due to its similarity to the Patek from which it draws its inspiration. I can understand the sentiment behind the criticism; it’s far less impressive to resurrect a beautiful design than it is to create something beautiful and novel from scratch. However, one could argue that this is common practice within the industry. Plus, isn’t the whole point of a release like this to pay tribute to a historic design and make it available at a more approachable price point? While I don’t agree with the vitriol, I have to admit that it’s kind of fun to watch.

Source: Revolution

7. Dear Universal Genève, Bring Back The Polerouter

Despite a significant amount of fanfare, the Polerouter is still one of the best values in vintage watches. For those who don’t know, the Polerouter was legendary watch designer Gerald Genta’s first notable contribution to horology. Genta would go on to design the AP Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, IWC Ingeniuer, and more. While I am biased (I have owned a few), I am astonished that great examples of the Poletouer are still available in the sub $2,500 price point. In an era where most brands are digging into their back catalogs (or even the back catalogs of other brands) in an effort to release exciting new watches that are inspired by the past, this article makes a convincing case for the return of one of the best and most important watches to come out of the 1950s.

Source: Fratello Watches

8. The History of A. Lange & Söhne Design With Anthony De Haas

Over the last few years, A. Lange & Söhne has grown quite a bit in popularity, with demand for their most popular models far exceeding supply. This article features an insightful interview with the brand’s director of product development, Anthony de Haas. During de Haas’ time at Lange, the brand released some of the most interesting and popular models, including the Zeitwerk and the Odysseus. De Haas talks about how Lange has grown an evolved throughout his tenure, as well as what the future holds for Germany’s most historic watch brand.

Source: A Collected Man

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