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Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

After too many years, Chanel launched a men’s watch during Baselworld 2016 in the form of the Chanel Monsieur de Chanel. Fortunately for fans, Chanel now seems keen on catching up on lost time and for 2017, is introducing a variant of the Chanel Monsieur de Chanel with a black grand feu enamel dial and a platinum case. Chanel is putting a tremendous amount of thought and effort in these watches and it clearly shows here.

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

All images by Ariel Adams

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

Chanel is one of several Parisian luxury houses that has started to make serious forays into the high-end watchmaking world. And like their peers, Hermès and Louis Vuitton, Chanel have taken the effort to design the entire watch from the ground up specifically for this line. This includes the movement, which is assembled in-house with components from Romain Gauthier, a horology heavyweight in his own right and the man behind the watch brand of the same name.

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

Looking at the dial, one could be forgiven for thinking it’s a three-hander with a big-date display within the first few seconds. However, the Chanel Monsieur de Chanel has no date complication and only tells time. What Chanel has achieved is a dial which looks like it has a traditional layout and is highly legible, and yet manages to be different by incorporating two complications; a jumping hour and retrograde minutes. You read the time starting with the large window at the bottom of the dial, which is the hour display and then to the top, which is the retrograde minutes and finally to a rather traditional sub seconds dial in the middle. Chanel has carefully designed the displays so that the minute indicator does not overlap the seconds. This rather simple yet strong presentation is completed by two polished steel hands, and a smattering of text and numbers, in a nice, contrasting white.

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

The real star of the show, is the grand feu enamel dial itself. The original Monsieur de Chanel from last year, while impressive, did not have an enamel dial and the visual impact that comes with it, especially a black dial. Another haute horlogerie technique, grand feu enamel dials take a painstaking amount of time and effort to produce and are visually unlike any other dial material commonly used. The repeated application of enamel and firing in the kiln results in a smooth, unbroken surface which has a gentle, almost imperceptible curvature to it.

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

The Chanel Monsieur de Chanel (like the Slim d’Hermès), receives a typeface which like the movement, dial, and case, was designed specifically for it. The strong, straight lines of the font make for a nice contrast to all the curves and circles on the dial. Like the lions head logo, this font will be used in all future Monsieur de Chanel watches. And, yes, Chanel have stated that there will definitely be additions to the collection, with different complications, over time. Note to Chanel – a steel model, please.

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Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

The movement, which Chanel has labeled the Calibre 1 is hand wound and beats at 3Hz with a 72-hour power reserve. Aesthetically, there are signatures that let you know Romain Gauthier played a hand here, thanks in particular to the interplay of circles which is emphasized by the circular main plate. Chanel has opted for a monochromatic look, with all the components except the jewels in either silver or dark gray plates. They have also subtly injected their signature design into the movement, with elements like the star shaped spokes in the balance wheel or the tapered spokes in the gears.

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

The other visual marker is the new lion’s head logo by Chanel that will be featured in all their future Monsieur de Chanel collection watches. All of these elements make for a movement that is quite a visual treat. In general, with the movement and elsewhere, Chanel has adopted a restrained, contemporary approach to its design.

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

The enamel dial and impressive movement are housed within a 40mm x 10mm platinum case which has very classic and familiar design elements, like a polished top and bottom bezel, with brushed case band, the tapered lugs, and the simple and familiar fluted crown. For a modern watch, the Monsieur de Chanel is moderately sized and sits well on the wrist and can be a comfortable daily wearer with formal wear and suits. The watch ships with a black alligator strap and a pin buckle which like the screwed hour window, is octagonal-shaped and reminiscent of the aerial view of the Place Vendôme in Paris, France, and a subtle touch that fans of Chanel are likely to recognize.

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On Hands-On

It is clear that a lot of thought and care has gone into the design and execution of the Monsieur de Chanel, and that it can comfortably go up against many of the options available from the more established watchmakers at this level. If the luxury houses, and Chanel in particular, continue to produce watches of this caliber, the argument of their legitimacy as watchmakers is most likely to settle in their favor. The Chanel Monsieur de Chanel in platinum with black grand feu enamel dial is now available for $63,000chanel.com

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Comments

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  • IG

    A Jaquet Droz that smells good as well! Nice movement.

  • Pete Pete

    looks great from a distance. but the close up shots of the dial – good lord, that dial looks like I tried to paint it by hand. that bumpy surface would be perfectly fine with a classic looking dial, but with this modern design it just doesn’t work.

    • Chemistman

      Exactly. At this price point a Patek would be the wiser choice.

  • ???

    I like this design and movement. Hope there will be a steel version with a non-enamel dial to cut the price significantly.

  • Guadzilla

    My only complaint about this watch – i cannot afford it. If they make one in the sub-$30k (or better yet, $20k), this would be my next watch. What an absolutely gorgeous design.

  • Word Merchant

    The movement looks wonderful, sleek and cool, but I’m not at all sold on the dial and its lumpy paint job. I’ve seen better quality painting on barn doors. And the price is just silly.

  • Joel Schumann

    “The repeated application of enamel and firing in the kiln results in a
    smooth, unbroken surface which has a gentle, almost imperceptible
    curvature to it.”

    In theory, perhaps, the photos show something else. Which is a shame, really, because I really like the design of most everything here. I guess Chanel should have outsourced the dial production rather than try cooking it in the kitchen.

  • Mikita

    Whoa, why the surface is so rough? And the painting looks worse than in Seiko Presage “Urushi” at 1/100 the price.

    • Tanaka could sell me an empty soda can, with his amazing videos…

      • Mikita

        Yeah, pity they stopped doing them…

  • Marius

    According to this article: “The real star of the show, is the grand feu enamel dial itself.”

    Well, let’s take a closer look at this “star of the show enamel dial”
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/be743d6a7e4ecee5e76f526fa7fe5acdf8ca4c5e2f22438dac75d70b5875d026.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/9ba2876124f056b595d6bb67957a912bacab3eea5fb7053752bd2fa763ec4959.jpg
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/3d3266cb9c226db5c1512b75ef98966b6629f050c38ae23343689de49f8ca51f.jpg
    Just as I suspected! My 81-year-old grandmother is responsible for this dial. Over the last few months, I kept seeing her in the garage — sometimes she would spend long hours there– and I always wondered what she was doing. She never really liked my grandfather’s Bentley Arnage, so I always wondered what my “worn out” granny was doing there.

    Also, according to this article: “…and a pin buckle which like the screwed hour window, is octagonal-shaped and reminiscent of the aerial view of the Place Vendôme in Paris, France.”

    I’m sorry, but do you really need to specify that the Place Vôndome in Paris is situated in France? I mean, is there another city of Paris in this world, with a Place Vôndome.

    • Word Merchant

      Along with the rotten paint, that minute hand looks pretty nasty too doesn’t it? Makes the standard that Seiko can effortlessly reach all the more remarkable. And the dial printing looks like I did it. And that’s not a good look.

    • Mikita

      He did right thing so that people won’t confuse less known French Paris with Belarusian agrotown of Paris: This is so that no one is confused with the agrotown of Paris: https://be-tarask.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/?????_(?????????_?????????) https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/77130f29aed0e7080806a877c40cf71c599a15bd00f00c6648f573433b773e77.jpg

    • Andrew Buckley

      Personally, I’ve never heard of Place Vôndome…now, Place Vendôme, that’s a different matter altogether….

      • Marius

        Ops, my mistake!

        • Andrew Buckley

          Sorry…I was born a pedant (but fortunately not a pederast).

          • Marius

            You are absolutely right, I did make a pretty big mistake. In fact, my French professor in high-school always told me that I’m terrible at spelling.

          • BNABOD

            Classy

    • Joel Schumann

      Actually, you can’t be sure on the Paris, France bit. The Texans of Paris, Texas raised a mini Eiffel Tower so why not a Place Vendôme?

    • BNABOD

      yup first thing through my mind was corrugated galvanized iron sheet not a classy enameled dial made by artisans in a deep forest in France.

    • Actually this dial reminds me of a particular piece of pavement on my street before the city replaced it. Now I know why: Copyright infringement.

    • Berndt Norten

      Yes. Montreal.

  • MEddie90

    Agree with Mikita, Pete Pete and others. The dial looks a bit unrefined, texture is lumpy and the numerals on the dial and hour wheel seem quite poorly done in areas. On a more classic hand painted watch i’d understand small errors and consider it part of the charm and a sign that it was hand done (take the Credor Eichi for example). On a more modern design however it looks shoddy, I know printed dials are often considered a cheap option but in this case I think the dial would have benefited from a crisp, defined printing as opposed to wonky numbers.

    Harsh criticism aside I like the rest of the watch. The dial layout is simple and legible, the movement is unusual (I love how the train is laid out in a circle with the same circular bridge tying them all together, very elegant) and fairly well finished (not super high end but decent) with a range of finishes which compliment the more modern design. The case and hands are fairly well executed (minute hand looks a bit shoddy and unpolished) and inoffensive.

    Some promise from a fledgling “serious” haute horology brand but could do with a better execution (and a better price tag while we’re at it).

    • Luciano

      I disagree only when it comes to teh movement finishing — the engravings look just awful. Check out the “Calibre 1” engraving.

  • Azhigaliyev Maksat

    What’s wrong with the dial? It feels like a cheap chinese watch, I mean the movement is wonderful to look at, but that finishing on the dial, that will give my nightmares. I would definitely wear this watch upside down, if someone ever gives it to me.

    • Luciano

      The movement is “ok” until you look at the engravings.

  • mark

    Don’t like it. Wouldn’t buy one. If given one would never wear it. Cant think of anything positive to say about it. I don’t even like the buckle on the strap.

    • William & Falcon

      Hey! The buckle rocks!!

      • Mikita

        Are you referring to the “Rock Buckles”?

  • Razzcal

    Seriously, how can the autor claim that the “real star of the show, is the grand feu enamel dial”? Can he see the same dial everybody else is looking at? That thing looks absolutely hideous. I had no idea that enamel could look that bad. Based on that dial I’d assume that the watch is a cheap Chinese knock-off of the real thing. The surface of the dial is uneven and dented, and the application of the text and numerals is far from perfect. Clearly the people at Chanel are completely clueless when it comes to making dials.

    It’s a real shame as well, since I do like the watch in general. If only the dial looked the way black enamel on the Lange Pour le Mérite looks, it would be a fantastic watch and would surely bring bucketloads of credibility for Chanel as a watchmaker. However, with that atrocity of a dial the watch really only makes Chanel seem like they have no watchmaking chops at all. If you don’t have the abilitiy to make a proper enamel dial, don’t make one at all. Or have them made by someone who can do it right. What an amateur mistake to make. Of course, it might just be that one piece that’s horrible, but in that case it should never have made it past QC. And if that’s the ‘standard’ of quality at Chanel, they should just call it quits.

  • BNABOD

    well the 1st thing in my mind beyond corrugated galvanized iron sheet for the dial is Jaquet Droz. You can have hand painted enameled dials, 18K cases, in house movement and strong history and not this ridiculous reference to place Vendôme (just because it is an octagon) for roughly 18k . so what would I chose hum……….

  • SuperStrapper

    Hyperbole aside, the dial does look suspect. I would thinkbthatbsome interesting sunburnt polishing on a metal dial would look excellent.

    I am a big fan of this pseudo-regulateur look and do really want tonadd something like it to my collection. Not $60k want, but want. At a glance I can’t help but see a lot of inspiration from Jacot Droz, the king of this look, and would likely just gravitate towards their offerings.

    Movement looks very nice, and comes with an excellent pedigree.

  • Framlucasse

    At this price, I am not impressed with the enamel work. At all. A lot of brands do better for much cheaper…

  • I was wondering if the review was done by Ray Charles. Apparently not…

  • Luciano

    Besides the poor quality of the enamel as mentioned by other commenters, worth also to check the quality of the movement engravings. What was the reviewer thinking to write: “It is clear that a lot of thought and care has gone into the design and execution of the Monsieur de Chanel, and that it can comfortably go up against many of the options available from the more established watchmakers at this level.”?!?
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/10f34c920dcbf09d91dced99aec9d329a7cee93d8ed1ee55c4a56265f90fcd2f.jpg

    • Mikita

      Doesn’t matter. ——- Are these SOLD OUT??

      • Luciano

        ?!?

    • Mikita

      Marius must tell his granny to refrain from engraving after a pair of martini…

      • Marius

        My grandmother washes her teeth with more than two Martinis. My granny drinks so much that even the Russians are afraid of her. For my grandmother, a balanced diet means having a bottle of vodka in each hand. If alcoholism was a tennis player, my granny would be Federer + Nadal + Djokovic.

        • Mikita

          Awesome woman. I envy your grandfather.

    • Marius

      Your comment is not only incorrect, but also utterly preposterous and absurd.

      I don’t understand what pictures you are looking at. To me, this watch looks absolutely tip-top. In fact, to to make sure that the enamel dial and the movement finishing are flawless, the people from Chanel hired the people from Volkswagen, so that the people from Volkswagen could perform a thorough quality control. The result speaks for itself: top-notch quality and a maniacal attention to detail.

    • Berndt Norten

      No need to worry–it’s sold out!?

      • Luciano

        ?!?

  • mtnsicl

    Are they going for that textured Spanish wall plaster look on the dial?

  • Mikita
    • SuperStrapper

      What are you pointing out? The minutes hand doesn’t jump, it will find itself between marks just like any other watch.

      • Mikita

        I meant it is slightly longer than the radius of the manege. I can stand it when it is significantly longer or shorter, but this 1 mm would bother me impossibly 🙂

        • Word Merchant

          And they can’t spell channel either.

          • William & Falcon

            Somebody needs to toss this into the English Chanel.

          • Berndt Norten

            It’s just Bad English.

          • William & Falcon

            When I see you smile, I know you’re not thinking of this watch.

          • Mikita

            French.. always showing disrespect for English.

        • SuperStrapper

          Got it. And understood.

  • Mariano Ramirez

    More publicity?
    U lost credit 4 this

  • John Stevens

    There’s artisan, there’s handmade all of which can be attractive then there’s this dial.

  • Marius

    This watch, which is pure art, has promoted a plethora of vile, vicious, and nasty comments, criticizing the dial, the movement, and whatnot. As a result, I contacted my good friend Karl Lagerfeld to straighten things out.

    I am very please to inform you that I have terrific news. According to Karl, this watch is only a prototype. The quality of the watches intended for the actual buyers will be worse. Considerably worse!

    But wait, that’s not all. According to my good friend Karl, Chanel will manufacture and assemble these watches completely in-house. To achieve this end, Chanel has opened a state-of-the-art manufacture in the British town of Jaywick near Clacton-On-Sea.

  • William & Falcon

    9 out of 10 dentists agree: Your enamel…it’s bad.

    • Berndt Norten

      I recommend the Benylin formulation

  • William & Falcon

    Would it be cheeky to say that it looks like a painted toilet seat?

  • Ariel Adams

    I was the one to photograph this and see the dial in person. While under the light in magnification the black enamel isn’t perfectly smooth, most enamel isn’t – but it is harder to tell when it is white. Basically what I am trying to say is that the dial looks totally fine in person, and the slight texture aberrations actually make it feel a bit more organic and less cold and industrial. I really did like this watch a lot.

    • Marius

      “Basically what I am trying to say is that the dial looks totally fine in person, and the slight texture aberrations actually make it feel a bit more organic and less cold and industrial.”

      I’m sorry, but those aren’t just slight texture abberations; that dial is a complete mess. A few months ago, Jack Forster (or maybe it was Ben Clymer, I can’t remember which) published a very interesting article on the Patek 2526, and they covered the subject of enamel dials quite extensively. Even 40-year-old dials looked much better than this, and the newer enamel dials should look almost perfect. Sure, they might have slight imperfections, but by comparison, this Chanel dial is quite awful. I don’t understand how it passed quality control.

      What’s more, this watch retails for over $63,000. At this price I would expect an extremely high level of quality. Having a more “organic” feel makes sense for bespoke suits & shoes, since you can feel that they are handmade, not machine-produced. In the case of expensive watches, though, I would want to get a high level of craft, precision, and attention to detail. For me, this watch shows utter disrespect for the customer who parts with $63,000.

    • Sheez Gagoo

      As “organic” as Grieb & Benzinger? This dial is so uneven, the Finnland Rally couldn`t take place on it.

  • Berndt Norten

    It’s the Chanel no. 4

  • William & Falcon

    Let’s get down to the raw numbers. What rating would you give this watch on a scale from 1 to 10? 1 being not worthy of even being mentioned by ABTW. 10 being Apple. And 14 being Nubeo.

    • Berndt Norten

      U have a Nubeo fetish!

      • William & Falcon

        Well, I definitely have a nudeo fetish. Not that I’m in the minority there.

        • Berndt Norten

          I have a Mexican radio fetish

          • William & Falcon

            Not to get political, but I’m going to build the wall of voodoo, and I’m going to make Mexican radio pay for it!

          • Berndt Norten

            Now THIS is the post of the year!

    • Mikita

      -3, according to Nubeo-Apple scale.

  • Spangles

    Incredible. This is a fantastic watch for people who love watches.

    Really, really well done.

  • Phil leavell

    I read the write-up then I read the comments below. Look at all the facts presented. I thought through the comments and I have chosen box 6 wrist turd

    • Mikita

      Damn, my plugins must be broken.. It’d be my top 1 box if I had the option

  • Mark1884

    Although in the minority, I like this watch. The dial layout is interesting & unique. I do concur with the stated observations of the dial. It does seem too imperfect to me. In the close up shot of the hour aperture, there seem to be imperfections around the seconds sub dial.
    I understand that these are close up shots, but 63k is a lot of money to pay for imperfections.
    Also, the hands look cheap to me. I think that a better finished dial and better hands would make this look great.
    I like the fact that Chanel and others have made the attempt to produce a high end watch.

  • Richard Baptist

    Sorry for 63k the dial finishing is unacceptable. I can find a grand seiko for 7 or 8k or less that has better finishing than this watch. The movement is lovely and I actually like the way it presents telling the time, but not this model.

  • Ulysses31

    The date window ruins it. Specifically, the weirdly robust-looking frame around it that doesn’t at all suit the elegant understated design of the rest.

    • Daniel Harper

      What date window?

      • Ulysses31

        Force of habit. The jumping hour window, which looks an awful lot like a date window. The resemblance is even pointed out in the article.

  • Eduardo Francisco Diez

    The design of the watch is interesting and good, but I would prefer it to have a Selitta movement and drop the price to under 3k. The problem with fashion brands is that they want to charge extra/rediculous premiums for the brand name. They should start smaller and at a more accessible price so that people can start to enjoy and buy their watches; later and according to demand, they can creat much more luxurious and expensive pieces.

    • cluedog12

      Chanel offers the ceramic J12 collection. Those watches retail for more than $3,000, but they’re still accessible.

      These new Monsieur watches are the spearhead of Chanel’s efforts to penetrate the serious watchmaking market. Make no mistake, these are serious watch people watches. I’ve seen the basic rose gold version in the metal and it is beautiful, far beyond the brand’s previous efforts.

      The luxury world adheres to a different set of rules of business. The creation comes first, then it is priced and marketed. If demand does not materialize, the gold gets melted and the beautiful dials and movements are quietly buried with the E.T. cartridges in New Mexico.

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