Introduced back in 2016, the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin is a rare steel perpetual calendar from Chopard’s haute horlogerie L.U.C arm. It’s simultaneously demonstrated Chopard’s ability to play at this level, undercutting offerings from the Pateks and Vacherons while having a uniquely Chopard style. Now for 2020, the brand is introducing two new versions: another steel variant with a blue dial, as well as a rose gold model with a gray dial.
Chopard has made one relatively minor change to the dial, but it’s a decision that I am compelled to praise. Clean applied hour markers replace the Art Deco-style Roman numerals, resulting in a dial that looks remarkably cleaner and less stuffy. I found these indices immediately evocative of the first L.U.C 16/1860s from the mid-1990s.
Model: L.U.C Perpetual Twin
Dimensions: 43mm-wide, 11.47mm-thick
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Case Material: steel or rose gold
Movement: L.U.C 96.22-L
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap/Bracelet: alligator leather
Price & Availability: $24,700 in steel and TBD in Rose Gold
The L.U.C designation means one thing: movements that are on par with some of the best out there. Here, the COSC-certified L.U.C 96.22-L is hand-finished boasting Geneva stripes, perlage, and beveling throughout. The rotor is done in a 22k white gold, for both steel and gold variants. The L.U.C 96.22-L operates at 28,00 vph and has a 65-hour power reserve.
The movement measures 33mm-wide and a slim 6mm-thick. The case is 43mm-wide and 11.47mm-thick, which some could say is a bit on the larger side. (The ratio of sapphire to steel on the case back could back this argument up.) That said, I am sure Chopard recognized that there is no shortage of 39mm Perpetual Calendars out there.
These new L.U.C Perpetual Twin models are smart and attractive new iterations of a compellingly priced watch. I am especially pleased with the design decision to replace the Roman numerals with hour markers that are reminiscent of the very first L.U.C pieces. The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin in stainless steel with blue dial (Ref. 168561-3003) is priced at $24,700, while the rose gold model (Ref. 161976-5003) price is still TBD — we will update as soon as we have it. You can learn more at chopard.com.