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Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph Watch In Stainless Steel

Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph Watch In Stainless Steel Watch Releases

In the aftermath of the headline-grabbing, if somewhat bizarre, Baselworld had by Doxa, a solid entry was needed to remind a faithful audience that the brand had not forgotten its roots. In fact, in light of the release of the limited-edition Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph in stainless steel, the solid 18-karat gold version released in Basel seems a much more forgivable anomaly. Why? Because this release, limited to 300 pieces (as opposed to the 13 gold pieces made available in March), is exactly what Doxa is known — and very much loved — for.

Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph Watch In Stainless Steel Watch Releases

Just as the gold piece was, the Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph in stainless steel is powered by original Valjoux 7734. These movements have been maintained in pristine condition for over 3 years in the archives of Doxa. As far as “new old stock” goes, that’s one hell of a find. These self-winding movements have a power reserve of 45 hours, but a slower operating frequency of 18,000vph. This is great for an era-appropriate homage, but it isn’t the best frequency for a sport watch.

The original steel Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph was released in 1969, two years after the SUB 300 debuted to a rapturous reception. (It was seen, at the time, as the first purpose-designed diver’s watch intended for the general public). While we may take Doxa’s signature orange dial for granted these days, it was kind of radical in its day and stood in stark contrast to the more traditional black or white faces that had preceded it.

Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph Watch In Stainless Steel Watch Releases

50 years on from the Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph’s original release, the brand has seen fit to update this iconic model. The new model measures 43mm across, 15mm tall, and 46mm from lug-to-lug. It has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a water-resistance of 200 meters, and features the patented unidirectional timing bezel, which, unusually, shows the dive-time in minutes, as well as the depth in meters, so dive-time without decompression stops can be calculated with ease.

The traditional, semi-matte orange dial has an unobtrusive date window at 6 o’clock and two sub-dials located along the horizontal axis. The going seconds sub-dial is located at 9 o’clock, while a 30-minute counter for the chronograph function is situated at 3 o’clock. The centrally mounted chronograph seconds hand, the hour and minute hands, and the hour markers are all filled with beige “Light Old Radium” Super-LumiNova.

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The classic grains-of-rice bracelet in 316L steel is included and secured by way of a folding clasp with a diving extension. The clasp is decorated with the Doxa fish logo. The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph will be available for order on the official DOXA website from September 2nd, 2019. The projected retail price will be $4,900. Find out more about this brand’s long history by visiting doxa.ch.

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  • I love it.
    But it has a very very small problem, an almost insignificant detail: the number after $.

    • Jared

      its because of how limited it is, since they are only making 300 of these, all the production and development costs have to be spread into just 300 watches instead of the usually 5000-10000. So if the fixed costs are $500,000 dollars…in a 10,000 unit run, that adds up to just a $50 price bump on top of variable cost…but with 300 watches, that $500K fixed cost adds up to $1,666 price increase before you get to the variable cost.

      • Oh yes, I understand the higher production costs of the limited series. However, I think that declaring to build a “limited edition” is often a pretext for maintaining a high selling price. No one will ever check how many watches of a so-called limited edition will actually be made.
        ’90/300′ or ‘101/300’on the case back is just fun.

    • Independent_George

      Doxa has a decent-sized following.

      They should have no problem selling these to collectors.

  • Hands90

    They will sell or at least I think they will.
    To have a remake of an iconic watch I could see it but it’s such a high price for what it is…

  • H.S.M.

    Nice, nice…
    But it’s just not worth to shell out that amount of dosh for a chrono diver (even if it’s limited) whilst they have regular ones much cheaper and in a nice range of colours. The turquoise and the yellow dials are great. Not your average looks. I miss not having a nice green one, or a cherry red maybe.

  • SuperStrapper

    I struggle to think of a single watch that has a bracelet that is designed this way (where there is a jog in the width from the lugs) and I enjoy it. It just always seems such a bizarre decision. Some enjoy it so I guess that’s just subjectivity in play but I can’t understand it. And because of the ‘false’ width on the bracelet you become visually accustomed to those dimensions, so if you swap it out for a strap in just the lug width it looks comically undersized. It’s all due to this manhole cover type case shape, which I’m not a fan of. It’s why Id choose the samurai over the turtle every time.
    And then on top of that it’s a beads of rice style, not one I tend to prefer.
    Love Doxa but this one isn’t for me.

  • SuperStrapper

    You demand like excellence and legibility beyond reproach, but have no love for divers.
    Are you buying anything know or soon? What’s on your actually-obtainable-and-will likely-acquire list? Seriously interested.

    I’ve recently bought the metal g shock and the Bulova Computron, a pair of watches I’m sure you’d like to see eradicated from existance! Lume is excellent on both though…

  • cluedog12

    I can see why Doxa has an enthusiastic following.

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