October 11, 2012
by Ariel Adams
A sky-style dial in deep blue and 18k pink gold is a very pretty thing in this new Geo.Graham The Moon watch by Graham. “Geo” stands for “George” who is the Graham guy that the brand is named after. George Graham was a British watch and clock maker from the 17th century. Even as the brand of today is totally Swiss, they still like to celebrate the English heritage of their namesake.
This new timepiece is a lovely limited edition and quite high-end for Graham. Only 10 or 20 pieces will be produced (the press release and technical specs seem to disagree on the point of how many will be made), but its stunning design is certainly worth talking about. The watch begins with an impressively sized 46mm wide case (which is actually not large at all given the brand’s Swordfish and Chronofighter collection of watches) in 18k pink gold. There is a blue sapphire cabochon in the crown – a not uncommon feature in watches but I always appreciate them. It also goes along nicely with the blue theme.
The multi-level blue dial of the watch is set with diamonds which represent actual constellations. Note the diagram below which points them out and also shows that the intersecting point of the hour and minute hands is meant to represent the position of Polaris. What I love is how the dial, flange ring, and bezel are all in blue to maximize the appearance of the night sky theme. That little ring of gold between them is classy as well. Lovers of astronomical themed timepieces will have a lot to enjoy here.
There is also the matter of the moon phase. It is a retrograde style moon phase indicator that has the moon moving back and forth versus in one continuous revolution on a disc. The photo realistic moon phase disc is said to be hand-painted by local artists in Le Locle Switzerland. Last, the moon phase indicator is accurate to 122 years or so given that it sets the moon phase by its more true cycle of 29 days, 12 hours, and 44 minutes. Most less expensive moon phase indicators have the cycle set to 29.5 days.
Inside the watch is the Graham caliber G1769 manually would tourbillon movement. The tourbillon is a flying tourbillon set deep into the dial but extremely visible and beautiful. On the dial are visible 18k pink gold hands that go with the diamond set hour markers on the flange ring. Attached to the case is a blue crocodile strap. As a limited edition piece (of 10 or 20) the Graham Geo.Graham The Moon watch is stunning and provocative. I quite like it even though the price represents something only a small demographic of watch lovers can afford at 240,000 Swiss Francs.
Tech specs from Graham:
Geo.Graham The Moon: Ref. 2GGAP.U01A Limited edition: 10
Functions: Manual Flying Tourbillon, Moon retrograde with precision of 122 years, Hours, minutes, seconds
Calibre: G1769, high precision mechanical movement with Haute Horlogerie finishing, Moon. Retrograde Tourbillon (moon returns backwards to zero at the end of its cycle every 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes), 21’600 A/h (3Hz), Incabloc shock absorber. 29 jewels. Power reserve : 96 hours
Case: 46 mm pink gold (18K) case with faceted horns. Pink gold (18K) right hand control crown decorated with a sapphire stone. Domed and metal coated milky way sapphire bezel. Domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on both faces. See-through sapphire crystal case back with serial number hand-engraved
Water resistance: 100 feet / 30 m
Dial: Blue dial with constellation of 45 diamonds (~0.24 cts). Hand-painted moon. Pink gold (18k) skeleton hands
Strap: Blue croco strap. Pink gold (18K) pin buckle
Price: 240’000 CHF