It’s been a few years now since we have seen H. Moser & Cie release a dual-time watch (with the last being an Endeavour that I still dream about to this day), but the brand has just released a new Dual-Time Heritage that leans into the brand’s quirkier instincts rather than the more mainstream fare offered by the Streamliner or Pioneer.
The new H. Moser & Cie Dual-Time Heritage comes in a steel pocket watch-inspired case of its parent collection with a bright and vibrant burgundy fumé serving as the background for its pilot’s watch dial. This burgundy fumé isn’t new but it’s certainly not used too often — I think the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD was the last time I saw it, and I can’t remember an instance before that.
Matching the broadsword-style hour and minutes hand (both of which are perfect in length, by the way) is the skeletonized dark anthracite gray hand for the second time zone. With the independently adjustable hour hand, the second time zone hand can also be set so it is neatly hidden behind the hour hand if you’re not using it. Legibility is excellent, and I absolutely love the large, three-dimensional hour markers that are totally done in Globolight, which is a lume-filled ceramic that Moser has been using in recent years. I foolishly didn’t capture a lume shot (I know, I know) but the press photo here shows it well. You’ll notice the very tip of the second time zone hand is lumed, as well.
At 6 o’clock is a very nicely framed large date window that is actually synced with the second time zone hand and can be set backward and forward. While the date window doesn’t technically match the dial, it is positioned within the dark outer edges of the fumé dial so it actually kind of works. A touch that Moser has recently grown fond of using is the transparent lacquer logo, which always looks very cool and is a pleasant halfway solution between an in-your-face logo and the absolute sparseness of a concept dial.
From the case back you can see the new automatic HMC 809 calibre movement, which utilizes a Moser-developed dual time module on their HMC 200 movement. Fairly straightforward, the HMC 809 is decorated with the usual double-crested Moser stripes and an open-worked rotor done in tungsten. With a bi-directional pawl winding system, the HMC 809 operates at 21,600 vph and has a three-day power reserve.
While the 42mm case would initially seem to be on the larger side, especially when you factor in the long wire lugs, it really is nearly all dial, which makes a world of difference. A smaller dial just wouldn’t work with the pilot’s watch styling, and the overall proportions of the case are pretty manageable. Measuring 42mm-wide, 11.6mm-thick, and with a lug-to-lug height of just under 47mm, the Dual-Time Heritage is actually quite wearable, especially when factoring in how the wire lugs curve downward.
Moser always takes an extra step with its case finishing, and there are sections on the sides of the case that have very nicely done coined finishes, as well as a solidly built, large onion-style crown.
Moser has been overdue for a travel watch, and I was pleasantly surprised to see one arrive this year. Obviously, I do think it’s inevitable that we will see a dual-time Streamliner sometime in the near future, but I’m glad the brand went with something quirky to debut the movement with. I’d also venture to say that we will likely see a dual-time Pioneer, as well, though I’m a little less bullish about an Endeavour model (which is, in my opinion, Moser at its finest). Coming on a kudu leather strap, the H. Moser & Cie Dual Time Heritage is priced at $21,900. You can learn more at h-moser.com.