March 8, 2012
by Ariel Adams
Round watches are certainly in again this year. Well round watches are pretty much ALWAYS in – though for high-end brand Maitres du Temps a 42mm wide round-cased watch is a bit unexpected. Nevertheless, that is exactly what the new Chapter Three Reveal watch looks like. For their third creation Maitres du Temps goes super classic in design, and offers a neat set of complications worth of the Maitres du Temps name.
The Maitres du Temps Chapter One was a massively sized watch with an incredible amount of complications. The Chapter Two was a sort of baby Chapter One with a more simple movement and more wearable size. Each of those watches has tonneau style cases (well, mostly). What endures over to the Chapter Three from the other two models is the use of rollers in the movement to indicate information. Rollers will apparently be a signature element of Maitres du Temps timepieces.
Like all Maitres du Temps watches, the Chapter Three is a collaborative effort with the brand and two very special watch makers. For the Chapter Three Maitres du Temps worked with Kari Voutilainen and Andreas Strehler. Enthusiasts of high-end independent watches will know these names well. Everyone else should simply trust the fact that people familiar with these watches both know and trust these guys pretty well. Also, with the Help of Voutilainen and Strehler, the movement inside of the Chapter Three watch is the first totally in-house movement for Maitres du Temps.
Producing an in-house movement was not just for show but also practical given how the caliber SHC03 movement in the Chapter Three operates. The use of the rollers as well as the opening and closing dial required a special mechanism to power the entire system. The Chapter Three is meant to be a sort of travel watch. The overall idea is to offer a dual time zone watch that is both easy to use and be discreet if you want to see the time elsewhere or simply have the watch look like a single time zone indicating timepiece.
On the beautifully decorated main dial are solid 18k gold hands showing the time, as well as a subsidiary seconds dial, date dial, and moon phase indicators. Press the lever-style pusher on the left side of the case and the dials opens in two locations to reveal another time indicator and a day/night indicator (used for AM/PM indication). I am really curious to see it all work in person.
Pictured, the Chapter Three Reveal watch is in an 18k rose gold case with a blue/black dial and black alligator strap. While this might be the only version for 2012, other color variations and material choices are sure to come. Fans of independent watch makers and those who enjoy high-end classically styled high-complication watches will certainly be into the Chapter Three this year.
Chapter Three Reveal – Technical Specifications from Maitres du Temps:
Central hours and minutes, small seconds, date, moon phase, hidden time zone on roller, hidden day/night on roller, manual winding mechanical movement
Central hour and minute hands
Small-seconds at 8 o’clock
Date on sub-dial at 2 o’clock
Moon phase at 4 o’clock
Hidden day/night on roller at 12 o’clock
Hidden time zone on roller at 6 o’clock
Time: hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon phase, hidden time zone and hidden day/night indication
Manual winding mechanical movement
Dimensions: 35.6 mm x 8.2 mm (inclusive of dial mechanism)
Number of components: 319
Number of jewels: 39
Power reserve: 36 hours
Dual mainspring barrels in series
Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Straumann balance spring with Breguet overcoil and low-mass escape lever
Finishing: Côtes de Genève, perlage, beveling, and polished screw heads
Number of components: 49
Sapphire crystals on top and display back with anti-reflective coating
Shaped pusher: quickset hidden time zone
Crown: 3 positions plus pusher
Position 0: Winding
Position 1: Setting date and moon phase
Position 2: Setting time
Pusher: Open/close dial panels
Water resistance: 30 meters/ 100 feet/ 3 ATM
Dial and Hands
Number of components: 3
Sun-ray guilloche, Clous de Paris guilloche
Hands: 18K gold
Hidden time zone: dual sliding embossed rollers
Hidden day/night: engraved and hand painted
Strap and buckle
Hand-sewn alligator strap with 18K gold tang buckle