What do the Maitres du Temps Chapter Three Reveal and the MB&F Legacy Machine Number 1 watches have in common? First of all, they both celebrate high-end independent watch makers. Second, they are collaborative works based mostly on the efforts of two men. The MB&F LM1 combines the talents of Jean-Francois Mojon and Kari Voutilainen, while the Chapter Three Reveal is by Andreas Strehler and once again Kari Voutilainen. It goes without saying that thirdly, they both integrate work by Mr. Voutilainen. Last, they are both highly aesthetically unusual for what the respective brands have so far asserted their visual DNA to be. You could also add that they are both the first real round watches from each brand as well.
It is probable that most of these similarities are coincidental, but still interesting to point out given how small the industry is and all the shared labor that these brands pull from. Kari Voutilainen has been a hot watch maker for the last few years in the independent circuit, and many people speak of how Andreas Strehler is becoming more and more noticed for his skills. So let’s see what they put together for this hands-on look at the Maitres du Temps Chapter Three Reveal watch (that I first covered here).
Aside from some branding and a signature complication, there is very little to tell you that this watch comes from the Maitres du Temps brand. Compare it for example to the Chapter One watch here. OK, OK, they are both in gold and have Roman numerals on the dial. The signature Maitres du Temps complication as of now is not really a complication, but more a feature. Each piece in the brand’s collection so far has used rollers. On the Chapter Three Reveal (I am just going to say Chapter Three), they are used for a day/night indicator and second time zone indicator.
The Chapter Three watch is 42mm wide and this year comes in an 18k rose gold or white gold case. The dial is blue with gold accents and hands, while it comes attached to a black strap with blue contrast stitching. On the wrist the piece is classic – and probably one of the most wearable Maitres du Temps watches to date. While the Chapter One is technically very impressive, it is much too long for most wrists. In a more traditional round-case skin, the Chapter Three does not have that problem.
One the watch dial are the time with subsidiary seconds dial, date dial, and moon phase indicator. Oddly the date and seconds dials are labeled, while the moon phase indicator is not. The “Reveal” part of the name comes from the opening and closing doors on the bottom and top of the dial. They are toggled open and closed via a pusher on the left side of the case. This pusher switch opens up a second time zone read digitally via the double rollers at 6 o’clock. The day/night indicator at 12 o’clock functions as an AM/PM indicator. The dial and all functions are really legible, and overall the face of the Chapter Three watch is attractive. Though it does miss a bit of the avant garde oomph of the Chapter One and Two watches.
Inside the Chapter Three watch is the exclusive Calibre SHC03 manually wound movement with just 36 hours of power reserve. This is even with two mainsprings, so something inside of the movement requires a lot of power. I suspect it is because of the power necessary to move the rollers.
According to Maitres du Temps, Kari Voutilianen is responsible for the design of the movement in the Chapter Three watch. This includes its architecture, decoration, and also the finishing. Andreas Strehler on the other hand worked to have the movement interface with the watch case and worked on the function of the complications (such as the reveal feature). While the Maitres du Temps Chapter Three comes in a classic skin, it is nevertheless a unique product in the high-end world of independent watch making. Price of the Chapter Three Reveal is $88,500 in 18k red gold and $90,000 in 18k white gold.