October 12, 2019
Martenero is a brand that does a great job with color, and the Edgemere Reserve collection is further proof. Its continued dedication to fun and refreshing timepieces has always captured my attention, so accepting this review was a no-brainer for me.
If you’re thinking, “Wait a minute… this guy sounds like he’s already a fan!” you’d be right. But let it be known: my admiration was earned via three previous reviews I conducted for Martenero. Each one was a solid win, and consistency has to count for something. But enough about the past — let’s talk about the Martenero Edgemere Reserve invading your eyeballs right now.
The design of the Martenero Edgemere Reserve is a clear evolution of the original Martenero Edgemere from 2016. Adding a power-reserve indicator wasn’t the only refinement, however. Some updates are more subtle than others, but I’m happy to say they all trend in a positive direction.
I selected the Silver model for this review, which is probably the “quietest” colorway on offer for the collection. But with a smart pop of robin’s egg blue, the watch still has a unique visual impact. It makes a wonderful focal point of the 24-hour indicator at six o’clock, and it really livens up the gray-white and silver tones of the dial.
An applied hour ring and tumbling Arabic numerals add a fair bit of dimension to the look of the dial, especially up close. There is also a wide variety of finishes that add flair and distinction to the largely monochromatic design on the Silver Matenero Edgemere Reserve. The brushing on the hour ring helps define it from the base of the dial and makes the polished hands far more legible. I am also a big fan of the oblong date window — a simple, quirky touch that easily integrates into the overall design.
All in all, the face of the Martenero Edgemere Reserve is superbly well done. The power-reserve indicator just looks great across from the 24-hour indicator, and it doesn’t feel crowded despite everything that is going on.
Another new feature that works really well is the lugs. Although I quite liked the chunky lugs of the original Edgemere, the curved outer edges on the Martenero Edgemere Reserve arguably work better. They stand out less, giving more presence to the face of the watch. I also feel that they work better with the shapes and forms present throughout the piece.
Again, I’m happy to see a brand like Martenero get better and better as it learns from previous releases. Just about everything on the Martenero Edgemere Reserve feels like an upgrade from its predecessor. And I really liked that watch, too.
Get your pocket protectors ready because here comes the technical portion of today’s presentation.
The Martenero Edgemere Reserve uses a Miyota 9132 as its innards, which gives you a 40-hour power reserve once fully wound. It is a 26-jewel movement that ticks away at 28,800 bph, and you can have a peak at it through the sapphire caseback. The nautical compass motif does obscure the view a bit, but I feel like it adds the visual interest the movement by itself lacks.
With the Miyota 9132, the dial is plenty interesting, featuring hour, minute, center seconds, date, 24-hour, and power-reserve indicators. All of this is capped off with a sapphire crystal, ensuring durability for regular wear.
The case is made from 316L Stainless Steel, primarily polished with brushed accents throughout. The screw-down crown only affords you 30 meters of water resistance, which means this isn’t a watch for the pool. However, it’s always helpful to guard against rain and splashing while going about your daily activities. The case is 40mm in diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug with a nice and standard 20mm lug-width to further enable your watch-strap addiction. Thickness adds up to 11.8mm, and although that could be slimmer, I found it slid under my shirt cuffs with ease. Plus, you’d probably have to sacrifice some of that lovely depth in the dial to get it thinner, and that would be a bummer — so, it’s a fair trade in my book.
Lastly, the pin-buckle leather strap is supple and super comfy. When it comes to leather, I prefer pin-buckle straps over folding clasps, so I hope Martenero continues to use them.
Look, every single Martenero I have reviewed is just super-wearable. The classic cues make the Martenero Edgemere Reserve a watch you can easily dress up, yet the modern touches and color make it great for casual wear, too.
In all honesty, the only criticism I have comes down to the type on the case. I really love the wave pattern and typesetting around the outer edge, but the lettering around the nautical compass (North, South, East, West) is in a different font. This is a nitty-gritty detail, but it would have been a perfect score for this watch had the type been consistent. Granted, it took me a while to notice, and it certainly doesn’t ruin the watch for me, but y’know, I’m a crazy watch person AND a crazy typography person.
So what am I saying? Well, I’ll certainly continue to enjoy Martenero as a brand, and this watch is another winner in my books. If you’re looking for some fun, $695 USD will afford you one heckuva good time with the Martenero Edgemere Reserve. Go check it out for yourself at martenero.com.
>Model: Edgemere Reserve, Silver
>Price: $695 USD
>Size: 40mm-wide, 11.8mm-thick, 20mm-wide strap, 47mm lug-to-lug.
>When would the reviewer wear it?: I wore it mostly with my windbreaker and sneakers when I was out and about.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: All of my artsy/designer friends loved this watch.
>Best characteristic of watch: The color and detail of the dial. Superb!!
>Worst characteristic of watch: The type on the nautical compass motif should be the same typeface as the lettering on the outer caseback.