In 1960, the birth of Grand Seiko was marked by the release of its very first model — a simple and elegant three-hand dress watch featuring a new and exceptionally accurate caliber 3180. Housed in a gold case with a creamy white dial and Grand Seiko’s signature dauphine hands and crisp markers, the first grand Seiko set the design brief for the decades to come. Today, Grand Seiko releases a limited edition of just 50 pieces that re-create this 1960 original with a sumptuous navy-blue dial and rose gold case.
The SBGW314 is housed in an 18k rose gold case that measures in at a modern, but tasteful, 38mm in diameter, 45.7m lug-to-lug, 10.9mm in height, and Grand Seiko’s typical odd 19mm lug width. You won’t find the angular lugs and sharp transitions characteristic of later Grand Seiko models, but case finishing and attention to detail is pure Grand Seiko.
Now, this wouldn’t be a Grand Seiko if the dial wasn’t inspired by nature in some way. Here, inspiration strikes in the form of a starry night sky. With its deep indigo hues, set off by the sparkling gold of the hands and indices, it’s hard to argue with Grand Seiko on this one.
The case and dial layout remain true to the original, going so far as to include the Diashock 24 jewels script and emblem at 6 o’clock. The only thing missing is the Chronometer designation below the gothic Grand Seiko text.
The caliber 3180 housed in the first Grand Seiko was certainly ahead of its time, even earning compliance with the standard of excellence of the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres. However, things have changed over the past six decades and you’ll find the SBGW314 equipped with Grand Seiko’s flagship hand-winding mechanical movement, the caliber 9S64. Still housing the same 24 jewels as the 3180, the caliber 9S64 bumps the power reserve to 72 hours and maintains an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds/day.
If there’s one thing Grand Seiko loves, it’s anniversaries, so it’s something of a surprise to see Grand Seiko release a re-creation of such an important watch, not as a commemorative anniversary piece, but as a limited edition of only 50 pieces. For Grand Seiko die-hards, the SBGW314 hits all the right notes for a re-creation. The deep blue dial is a lovely complement to the rose gold case and while it may harken back to a watch that was released over 60 years ago, the SBGW314 feels thoroughly modern — a testament to Grand Seiko’s design prowess. The SBGW314 is priced at $26,500 USD. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.
