Then there is the new bezel design, which has been received in various ways by the community. The bezel is not so different in construction from other previous Panerai Submersible watch models. The uni-directional rotating diver’s style bezel is produced in titanium with relief-engraved markers and a polished periphery. What is new is the design of the markers and the numeral fonts — which are admittedly both attractive and modern. I don’t like the look of this bezel in Panerai’s marketing images as much as I do in person. Sure, I worry about how the engraved titanium will age over time with normal wear and tear, but the effect is very nice to look at.

I could be wrong, but I believe that the Submersible Mike Horn Edition watch case is actually a bit thinner than most other Submersible watches. Well, I know it is thinner, but I am not sure if this is exactly when Panerai introduced the thinner case design. Again, it isn’t “thin,” per se, but thinner than previous Submersible watches that were very tall off the wrist. The rear of the watch has an engraved caseback — though I would have probably preferred an exhibition caseback (which is easily doable for a 300 meter watch). Instead, both the limited edition and this non-limited edition Submersible Mike Horn watch has an engraved Mike Horn signature, as well as a friendly motif of assorted marine life. It’s charming, I suppose, but I don’t feel that the strength and poise of the overall brand and wristwatch are well encapsulated in this beach resort-style aesthetic composition on its caseback.

Inside the Submersible Mike Horn Edition watch is the Panerai Calibre P.9010 in-house made automatic movement. Used in a few others Panerai watches, the well-made P.9010 operates at 4Hz with 72 hours of power reserve across two barrels. The P.9010 also has an independently adjustable hour hand which makes it easy to switch time zones while traveling. This is also how you adjust the date — it takes a bit longer than a quickset date, but is simple enough. Panerai semi-confusingly sells similar versions of the Submersible at half the price but with a different, non-in-house movement. Those models have a Panerai Calibre OP XXX, which I believe is a reworked Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 without the chronograph mechanism.

The recycled plastic strap is nice enought looking, and I suppose the story adds a minor element of emotional value to the wearing experience. I like the look of it but I don’t feel that it is very “luxury.” This is a $20,000 wristwatch, after all, and recycled or not, if the only strap it comes with is plastic, then I feel Panerai isn’t necessarily taking into consideration how happy it makes consumers to offer an additional strap (say in a slightly more exclusive material) and how relatively inexpensive that proposition actually is.

What Panerai didn’t touch as part of its iconic design formula is the crown guard system, which might be functionally antiquated at this point, but continues to look cool. That and the cushion-style case make much of the brand look and Panerai has proven that with even appreciable dial variation you still get that core Panerai look and feel. That’s good news for watches like the Submersible Mike Horn Edition because it means that, even with new dial and bezel elements, this watch solidly exists within the Panerai family. It also happens to be a really nice looking, and comfortable daily wear, though the price tag puts it into “braggado” territory when it comes to what the timepiece says to onlookers.

While not without some flaws and character quirks, I feel that the Submersible Mike Horn Edition PAM00984 watch is a great new offering from the brand, and I’ve enjoyed wearing it quite a bit. For the comfort, coolness, and novelty factory alone I’d be happy to wear one — but the price will likely make the majority of consumers think this one over carefully for at least the time being. Price for the Panerai Submersible Mike Horn Edition PAM984 watch is $20,500 USD. Learn more at www.panerai.com.

Necessary Data
>Brand: Panerai
>Model: Submersible Mike Horn Edition 47MM PAM00984 (PAM984)
>Price: $20,500 USD.
>Size: 47mm-wide, approx. 15mm-thick, and approx. 56mm lug-to-lug distance.
>When reviewer would personally wear it: As a modern daily sport watch with the Panerai sex appeal but with a contemporary aesthetic twist.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Well-funded watch collector who has traditionally felt Panerai was too regurgitative but has been interested in what everyone seems to be excited about.
>Best characteristic of watch: Panerai did an admirable job of making some new choices that still tie into the brand’s DNA. The new dial, handset, and bezel work together well and help make an existing design feel, more or less, fresh again. Good legibility and Panerai’s refinement of the Submersible case is more than noticeable.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Questionable design choices on watch caseback. Not everyone will like the dial text moved to the sapphire crystal. Earth-friendly theme of Eco-Titanium, presentation box, and recycled strap are in touch with today’s consumer trends, but the pricing strategy seems to be related to entirely different consumer trends. In any event, they do make good talking points when socializing and showing off your watch.