August 1, 2022
After two years in development, Retter Watches is ready to release its first watch, the 22, for pre-order. Designed in New York and manufactured in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the 22 is a fusion of design elements from the team’s favorite watches, and priced at under $1,000, it offers a lot of value. The Gerald Genta and Vacheron Constantin 222-inspired design cues are clear, from the distinctive bracelet links, fourteen-sided bezel, and apt naming scheme. Still, the 22 doesn’t come off as a homage to any specific watch; it achieves its own identity through the use of Retter’s unique design language.
The three pillars of the design of the 22 are proportionality, utility, and harmony. Proportionality is achieved through careful selection of the case dimensions. At 40mm-wide, and 46mm from lug to lug, it looks appropriate and is comfortable on all wrists. The bracelet also tapers dramatically to give the watch a balanced look and feel. Its diamond-shaped inner articulating links give the wearability of an H-link bracelet but with a more elegant aesthetic. Finally, long, distinct hands and a date window with an applied metal border finish things off.
The team’s goal of utility was also achieved, and the spec list proves it — 200m of water resistance is more than many watches in the category offer. The sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating to aid the legibility of the clean dial, and blue Super-LumiNova X1 on the hands and indices provides excellent legibility at night. A careful mix of polished and brushed surfaces dramatically plays with the light. It also allows the watch to be worn daily, yet cover more dressy situations, and the butterfly clasp is secure and seamless in appearance. Also, the Sellita SW400 movement features automatic winding and is regulated in four positions (the SW400 is a larger version of the SW200, which allows for the date wheel to be moved to the edge of the dial for a better dial layout).
Retter Watches has also developed an FKM rubber strap to go alongside the integrated bracelet, carrying over the same flowy design language and featuring a custom-designed pin-and-buckle clasp. The first 250 orders will come with a complimentary FKM rubber strap that will also be sold as a standalone accessory during the preorder. If that’s not enough, a leather travel case is included with each Retter 22, which will protect the watch even when it’s off its owner’s wrist.
Finally, the 22 uses carefully selected design elements to provide the third pillar of a harmonious design. Multi-faceted applied metal hour markers have pointed tips, a shape that is echoed in the diamond-cut hands and the 14-sided bezel. This shape is then also carried over to the intermediate links in the bracelet. An applied logo and minimal printed text on the dial keep everything clean and symmetrical. White or black text displays the name of the brand and denotes the watch’s automatic movement. Despite being quite legible, the dials are also beautiful, achieved through careful radial brushing and bead blasting before the color is applied. The harmony also flows into the case treatment. Everything is tied together with the finishing, where polished sides of the bezel are repeated in chamfers spanning the edges of the case and bracelet, and satin-brushed surfaces seamlessly flow along the watch.
Two dial colors are available on the Retter 22. Frost White, with its cool, matte finish, gives a classic and clean look and is the more versatile option. Lapis blue, featuring a radial sunburst brushing, is a deep, rich color that is perfect for someone looking for something with a bit more flair.
Retter says that its watches aim to blend vintage trends with contemporary design at the best possible price points, and the 22 clearly achieves all of these goals. The Retter 22 is available for pre-order starting August 1st at a reduced price of $895 USD. The pre-order will run for two weeks, and, again, the first 250 orders will receive a complimentary rubber strap. Watches will be manufactured by Retter’s ateliers in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, and start shipping from its warehouses in the United States in early 2023. Each watch will come with a two-week return period and a two-year limited manufacturer’s warranty. To reserve one for yourself, or to learn more, you can visit the brand’s website.
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