Category: Cartier

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Cartier Santos 100 Ref. W2020009 Watch Review

Cartier Santos 100 Ref. W2020009 Watch Review   cartier

Article and images contributed by Michael Maximilien:

In some circles, the French brand Cartier is seen more as a fine jewelry producer than as a watchmaker. However, the brand has a long history as a creator of fine timepieces coupled with a unique style which makes it hard to ignore...

The original Cartier Santos was reportedly designed and created by Louis Cartier himself in 1904 for his friend and pioneer, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. The Santos has been a major piece in the Cartier collection for a long time and in 2004 Cartier released their Santos 100 line which included larger Santos models.

Cartier Santos 100 Ref. W2020009 Watch Review   cartier

The Santos line has many variations, however, they are all styled like the original. This includes a square case that is slightly curved on both sides which makes it fit effortlessly on the wrist. The dial has the signature Cartier Roman numerals, including the incorrect IIII at four o'clock - this allows the markers on the right to better symmetrically match the ones on the left.

Cartier Santos 100 Ref. W2020009 Watch Review   cartier

The Santos 100 reference W2020009 (size large) case is in rose-gold and amorphous diamond-like carbon (aDLC) and offers the classic design with rose-gold recessed markers on a black dial. The rose-gold sword-shaped hours and minutes hands join a hair-thin, rose-gold seconds hand for an elegant look. The hours and minutes hands include a small layer of SuperLumiNova coating which makes the watch somewhat readable at night once light charged.

The simple yet stylish square dial design is matched with a protected heptagonal crown in rose-gold with a faceted black sapphire gem cabochon. Turning the crown clockwise winds the watch and when pulled allows the hours and minutes hands to change with a hacking seconds feature, thereby allowing the time to be precisely set. These are all basic features of the base Swiss ETA movement.

Cartier Santos 100 Ref. W2020009 Watch Review   cartier

One of my favorite parts of this watch is the strap. The Cartier "toile de voile" strap is made of a thick black nylon with a leather doubling interior. While the complete watch stands at just under 140 grams, Cartier's choice of a nylon strap results in a very comfortable and easy to wear timepiece.

The strap can easily be adjusted by pulling the extra nylon strap and folding it on the inside of the formed bracelet. After adjusting it a couple of times, I wore it once for a long US east-to-west coast trip, hardly remembering it was on my wrist the whole day.

Cartier Santos 100 Ref. W2020009 Watch Review   cartier

Cartier includes a deployment clasp that when closed, has a nicely added piece of rose-gold in the middle of the buckle. Like the bezel, the deployment clasp rose-gold buckle is adorned with black aDLC steel screws, which contrast superbly with the pinkish gold and the black aDLC monture.

The rest of the 51mm tall by 43 mm wide case of the watch is aDLC coated steel that is brushed with slight satin polished rounded corners, giving it a manly yet slightly shiny look and feel. The aDLC coating is supposed to be an improvement on DLC with features such as being highly scratch-resistant and being less prone to fingerprint marks. Just like most Cartier watches, the Santos' caseback is solid and includes the Cartier name in that classic font as well as the model name.

Cartier Santos 100 Ref. W2020009 Watch Review   cartier

Overall, the Santos 100 makes for a stylish daily watch that can easily be worn at the club or in a business meeting. My only quibble with the Santos 100 is its relatively high-price, $10,400 for the large version (shown here) and $9,250 for the smaller (W2020007). This is especially true when you consider that Cartier uses their caliber 49 movement for this watch, which is a modified ETA 2892.

Naturally, ETA movements are reputable and reliable, however, it would be nicer to see the Santos 100 with Cartier's own in-house movement as it started doing for the Cartier Rotonde and Calibre lines. Such a change would give me the happy comfort of knowing that the same attention to details and superior fit and finish that makes me love this watch on the outside is also on the inside, even when I cannot see it…

Cartier Santos 100 Ref. W2020009 Watch Review   cartier

There is also an extra-large version (W2020004 and W20124U2 and others) of the Santos 100 that runs in the $14,000 and even more depending on complications (chronograph or not) and also whether the case is rose-gold with aDLC bezel versus the aDLC case with rose-gold bezel as in this one or completely in gold.

If you want a watch that has timeless style with fine craftmanship, is easy to wear, and has a long history, then the Cartier Santos 100 is an easy choice.

About Ariel Adams

Owner & Editor-In-Chief of aBlogtoWatch (formerly known as aBlogtoRead.com) - the world's largest and most popular wrist watch blog. Ariel Adams also regularly contributes to other important media such as Forbes, Departures, Centurion, Tech Crunch, and more.

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13 comments
MarkCarson
MarkCarson like.author.displayName 1 Like

So how is the comfort with the fold under strap? Does the outer surface and ends being against the wrist present any issues? I assume that once you bend the strap back onto itself, that it is permanently creased at that length.

Maximilien
Maximilien

@MarkCarson correct, the bended strap help secure the fit and since the material is nylon and leather, the feel is pretty good. The adjustment of the extra bit of strap is easily done, however, I did have to adjust both sides a few times to get the exact lenght I wanted for my wrist... However, it's been months now and no adjustments since.

This comment has been deleted

MarkCarson
MarkCarson

I agree with "IIII" being incorrect for "4" as a roman numeral. That is a pet peeve of mine on too many watches.

 

Also, to be picky about it, a cabochon is, by definition, not faceted.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cabochon

 

Cheers

Maximilien
Maximilien

@MarkCarson Yep, I did remeber reading this, however, somehow I kept the term on the post... My bad. Good catch

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YuriyYuryev
YuriyYuryev

I don't think Cartier, any model they ever came up with, be it Santos, Rondo, Pacha, etc., goes well with the nylon strap. I don't question the convenience but it just doesn't blend well with the tradition and the entire jewelery image of the maison. 

Kris C
Kris C

$10k? Seriously? What a joke. Just what modifications have been done to the 2892? Just looks like a standard no-date 3-hander to me.

Maximilien
Maximilien

@Kris C Try it in person... It's not cheap but the quality is there, no doubt

nateb123
nateb123

 @Kris C Agreed.  Nice design of course (not that it's at all a new design) and looks very wearable but 10-14k?  I was looking at an IWC Portofino 8 Days in 18k rose gold recently for not much more (once the haggling bit was done).

 

This is probably one of the worst rip-offs I've seen in a while.

Greg S
Greg S

@Kris C Nice strap and clasp combo though, Kris, surely you must agree? Sum of the parts and all that...

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CG
CG

Unfortunately this watch is a rehash of many other (way cheaper) Chinese watches flooding Sears, Walmart, Kmart, Target and on and on. I can't see any Cartier quality until you get inches away from it. I'm sure it will be getting out of a black Chrysler 300 in Detroit or Vegas Cigars sometime soon...

nateb123
nateb123 like.author.displayName 1 Like

 @CG Fake watches are for fake people.

This comment has been deleted