March 21, 2020
Breguet Unveils New Dials And Colorways For Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887, Classique 7137, and Classique 7337
In an industry that prides itself on tradition, Breguet remains one of the most traditional luxury watchmakers of them all. Despite this, 2020 brings some dramatic and handsome visual changes to three of its high profile models – the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887, the Classique 7137, and the Classique 7337.
For the brand that literally invented the tourbillon, this incredibly difficult complication plays a pivotal role in many of Breguet’s product lines, including its sporty Marine series. For the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887, the brand combines this signature complication with the complex Equation of Time function and a perpetual calendar, all wrapped together in a package only 11.75 mm thick. While the model was first released in 2017, for 2020 Breguet has offered a warmer alternative to its previous platinum and blue color scheme with a new rose gold variant with a slate gray guilloche dial. Other than the new rose gold material, the 43.9 mm case is visually identical to previous models with unique integrated lugs, Breguet’s signature fluted case sides, and 100 meters of water resistance. The gray finished gold dial strips away some of the nautical feel seen in the blue dial model, adding an almost architectural feel to certain elements. Of course, aquatic touches such as the wave pattern guilloche finish of the central dial and outer segment still shine through, but the overall feel is more subdued and less imperious. Of course, the tourbillon aperture at 5 o’clock is the real visual centerpiece, highlighting not only the rotating tourbillon itself but also the irregularly shaped cam driving the complex Equation of Time complication. That complication itself, as an Équation Marchante, receives its own gold ring-tipped hand following the minutes hand around the central dial.
The Caliber 581DPE automatic movement visible through the caseback is beautifully finished as one expects from a Breguet, featuring a complex engraving of the French sailing ship Royal Louis across four separate movement bridges, accented by a compass rose pattern atop the barrel drum and a heavily decorated platinum rotor. Outside of this, the Caliber 581DPE offers an 80 hour power reserve, perpetual calendar, running equation of time, retrograde date and a power reserve indicator. Breguet offers the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 on a brown alloigator leather strap with rose gold butterfly clasp. MSRP for the new model stands at $215,000.
Breguet also added new engine turned dial finishes to two of its comparatively simpler Classique models, the Classique 7137 and Classique 7337. While mechanically identical to previous models, the new patterning on these dials is an impressive addition on its own. For the Classique 7137, this includes a basket weave pattern for the sweep of the power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, checkerboard guilloche for the 6 o’clock small seconds subdial, and traditional clous de Paris finishing on the main dial surface. The Classique 7337, meanwhile, offers a circular fish scale pattern for the outer dial, checkerboard patterning for the 5 o’clock small seconds and a clous de Paris main dial. Both models also feature a new moonphase wheel with deep relief finishing on the white gold moon itself. Both models are available in both a white gold-cased version with blue enamel gold dial, and a rose gold variant with silvered gold dial. Pricing for the updated Classique 7337 stands at $43,000, while the Classique 7137 will retail for $40,000 when the new models reach authorized dealers later this year. For more information, visit Breguet’s website.
Greubel Forsey Debuts QP à Équation In Rose Gold
Breguet wasn’t the only brand to reinvent an Equation of Time tourbillon model in rose gold this week. Not to be outdone, boutique watchmaker Greubel Forsey has unveiled a new rose gold variant of its GPHG Calendar Prize winning QP à Équation. What’s truly interesting, however, is the difference in execution. While the Breguet is classical and restrained, the Greubel Forsey feels contemporary and in-your-face with a chunky 43.5 mm 5N red gold case measuring in at a full 16 mm thick. The brushed cutout details in the case sides do little to detract from the visual bulk, but Greubel Forsey makes no attempt to disguise the watch as anything but what it is. Both the new chocolate brown-finished gold dial and the display caseback display a staggering amount of information, with 13 total complications including hours, minutes, an 8 o’clock small seconds, day, date, and month indicators at 4 o’clock, a leap year indicator at 6 o’clock, an oversized tourbillon at 10 o’clock, 70 hour power reserve indicator at 1:30, 24 hour day/night indicator at 7:30, and a crown pusher function selector indicator at 2:30, all on the main dial. Around back, the Equation of Time indicator receives a complex display all its own using a system of disks and a season indicator ring, and is accompanied by a small four digit year indicator. Greubel Forsey pairs this new warm colorway with a brown alligator leather strap. The new QP à Équation is available now from authorized dealers at an MSRP of $679,330. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.