It’s rare to come across a microbrand that leaves no detail unconsidered and no expense spared. Oftentimes, the battlefield for these brands is in the sub-$1,200 range, but this is far from the case with Brellum, a Swiss microbrand. Producing less than 300 watches annually, they have locked into an aesthetic and design language that punches way above what you would expect from a brand of this size and age. Their newest release, the Brellum Duobox LE.3, is no exception, integrating six complications with COSC certification and expert finishing. There will be 13 of these watches made, but I believe they may already be sold out.
The Duobox line reads really well on paper: 41mm case, dual boxed sapphire crystals, a beautifully decorated COSC-certified movement, and a wide array of color combinations to choose from. On top of that, the LE.3 comes equipped with a triple calendar, day/night indicator, and a moon phase. Brellum has also opted to replace the applied indices normally used on the Duobox, instead including polished Roman numeral indices for the hour markers. Flipping the watch over, you’re treated to another box sapphire, exposing the nicely decorated Brellum BR-751 (a modified Valjoux 7751) with a 5N pink gold rotor that’s been signed and numbered for the edition. These watches are, like the rest of Brellum’s line, COSC-certified and come on a handmade alligator strap.
Ultimately, I feel like this is a pretty logical step for Brellum—the addition of the calendar and moon phase complications onto their already well-designed Duobox line makes them much more appealing to consumers looking for more high-end timepieces. Looking at the watches with a critical eye, however, I would say that the amount of decoration on the LE.3 is surprisingly sparse. The Geneva striping and blued screws are nice touches, but the bridge work is otherwise rather plain. The dial itself is well-executed, though the Pulsometer scale is an odd addition to a fairly dressy/formal watch. Still, there are quite a few noteworthy positives.
It’s admirable that a smaller brand like Brellum would go to the extent to have their watches COSC-certified. Furthermore, the finishing is top-notch, the movement is impressive, and the design is mostly well thought out. The Brellum Duobox LR.3 is priced at 3,190 CHF, but it now appears that the limited edition is sold out. brellum.swiss