Photos by Ed Rhee and Jake Witkin

While Hublot is best known for its bold and highly technical designs, the Swiss brand also produces a fairly diverse assortment of art pieces, and rather than just incorporating traditional artisanal crafts such as enamel or engravings, Hublot instead partners with famous artists and works with them to transform their signature styles into striking avant-garde timepieces. Hublot’s partnership with French pop artist Richard Orlinski dates back to 2017, and the two parties have collaborated on a number of different timepieces throughout the years, which all incorporate the distinct faceted aesthetic that defines Orlinski’s sculptures. Among the various novelties that were unveiled earlier this year at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 was the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium, which offers a noticeably more pared-back and utilitarian appearance compared to previous models that have been produced as part of this partnership.

Measuring 41mm in diameter by 12mm thick, the case of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium features the same angular lines and gemstone-style facets that unite all of Orlinski’s works. However, rather than being glossy and polished like the rest of its siblings, the vast majority of the external components on the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium receive a matte micro-blasted finish with small polished highlights on the rim of its bezel and chronograph pushers. Flat sapphire crystals are fitted to both the dial side of the watch and its display-style caseback, while water resistance comes it at a fairly standard 50 meters, and just as you would expect from a model that is part of the greater Classic Fusion series, the bezel on the new titanium Orlinski Chronograph features six exposed screws set into is surface, which run through the entirely case and hold all of its various components together.

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The more sober and restrained aesthetic extends to the dial, and rather than featuring the same faceted design as the case, the dial fitted to the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium features a relatively straightforward gloss black surface with a pair of recessed registers, angular applied hour markers, and a date window at the 6 o’clock location. Rather than having the usual baton-style hands that are typically fitted to the brand’s Classic Fusion series, the Orlinski models receive a dauphine-shaped handset, although the centrally-mounted chronograph second hand still has its usual Hublot-logo counterweight. While the angular design of the case is very much in-line with Orlinski’s signature aesthetic, the dial fitted to the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium is rather traditional, and this makes the watch feel less like a wearable Orlinski sculpture and more like an Orlinski-themed Hublot chronograph.

Personally, I’m a bit torn when it comes to the more restrained direction of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium. The model undeniably benefits from being a bit easier to integrate into everyday life; however, I’m not sure that’s exactly the goal when buying a Hublot x Orlinski collaboration watch. While I objectively enjoy the concept of a rugged and slightly utilitarian rendition of an Orlinski-themed Hublot, one of the major highlights on the original three-handed models is their unique style of dial, which features a dramatic three-dimensional structure of asymmetric facets that create a cohesive appearance with their distinct angular cases. Part of the reason why the Orlinski series has been so successful for Hublot is because people like the concept of having a portable Orlinski sculpture that they can wear on their wrist, and while the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium may offer greater aesthetic versatility than its siblings, it simply doesn’t quite feel like an Orlinski sculpture.

Technically speaking, the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium isn’t just one single watch, but rather two separate references due to the fact that the model is offered with the option of either a black rubber strap or a matching titanium bracelet. In its strap-equipped form (ref. 549.NI.1270.RX.ORL23), the watch more-or-less appears to be an ultra-angular version of the standard Classic Fusion Chronograph, although the bracelet version of the model (ref. 549.NI.1270.NI.ORL23) provides a significantly more Orlinski-themed appearance due to the fact that its H-link bracelet features the the same faceted design that characterizes the case. The strap and the bracelet both connect to the case with a proprietary system that offers an integrated appearance, and they both feature deployant-style clasps that operate with a double push-button release.

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Powering the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium is the brand’s HUB1153 automatic chronograph movement, which is based upon the design of the ETA 2892-A2 and therefore runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Despite being a modular chronograph, this ETA-based caliber is still a fairly reliable and proven design, although it undeniably seems a bit inauspicious given both the appearance of the watch and its price point. Hublot already produces a very capable in-house chronograph movement that it uses throughout its Big Bang Unico series, and while I don’t have any personal prejudice against the use of third-party calibers, I still think that most collectors would prefer to have one of the brand’s in-house movements inside the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium.

While many Hublot watches are routinely accompanied by six-figure prices, the Classic Fusion is the brand’s entry-level collection, which means that the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium is actually quite a bit less expensive than many of its other models. When purchased on a rubber strap (ref. 549.NI.1270.RX.ORL23), the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium is accompanied by an official retail price of $14,600 USD, although that value increases to $18,200 USD should you plan on getting the version that comes with a matching titanium bracelet (ref. 549.NI.1270.NI.ORL23). Realistically speaking, the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium is still a very expensive watch; however, it also offers a truly unique design that even stands out among the various other Orlinski-edition Hublot watches. For more information on the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium watch, please visit the brand’s website.


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