While a relatively young brand at 18 years old, Linde Werdelin has solidly established an aesthetic of its own in the luxury watch industry, with a trademark angular geometric design language that stands out starkly from its competition. The brand has translated this aggressive, blocky look into everything from divers to sports chronographs, but for its latest release Linde Werdelin has returned to its brand staple 3 Timer GMT series for a new interpretation inspired by the icy waters of the North Sea. The limited edition Linde Werdelin 3 Timer Nord combines a cold blue colorway with a pair of innovations, introducing both the first bead blasted case and the first fumé dial into the 3 Timer lineup.
The 44mm stainless steel case of the Linde Werdelin 3 Timer Nord is a blend of familiar forms with aggressive new surfacing. The aggressive, distinctive faceted shape of the 3 Timer remains here, complete with its blocky crown guards and signature hex screw-topped integrated lugs. With nearly the entire case seemingly designed with only a ruler in hand, the round rotating GMT bezel might feel somewhat out of place. The aggressive toothed edge and squared-off modernist font of the numerals help to mitigate this, integrating nicely with the overall aesthetic while providing necessary utility for this type of timepiece. The 15mm thick case has never been a design for all tastes, but the new all-over bead blasted finish helps to focus this design visually. Rather than visually competing with similar but more elegant designs with brilliant polished bevels and smooth brushing, this matte surface reinforces the brutalist, industrial nature of Linde Werdelin’s signature look. It may not be the most classically handsome case, but there is no denying its hyper-masculine charm. The beefy case dimensions are not just for show, either, with the 3 Timer Nord boasting a respectable 300 meters of water resistance.
Like the case, the dial of the Linde Werdelin 3 Timer Nord takes an evolutionary rather than revolutionary approach. The overall design is the core angular 3 Timer form, with its lumed dauphine hands and undersized applied indices, but the open minimal dial works to maximize the impact of the new fumé dial treatment. This rapid descent from ocean blue to dark midnight evokes a descent into frigid sea depths, while the radial etched dial pattern helps to emphasize the shift. Other dial elements are left to fade into the background, except the mirror polished faceted GMT hand.
Linde Werdelin powers the 3 Timer Nord with an ETA 2893-2 automatic GMT movement. There are no two ways about the fact that this is a surprising movement to see at this particular price point, despite its dependable performance, appearing in watches at a fraction of the 3 Timer Nord’s cost. This powerplant offers a below average 38 hour power reserve and a quickset 24-hour hand rather than the coveted “true GMT” quickset 12-hour hand.
The Linde Werdelin 3 Timer Nord is offered on a trio of strap options. The first and sportiest option is Linde Werdelin’s signature grooved rubber strap, here rendered in a matching midnight blue. It’s a durable and modern combo that emphasizes the limited edition dial while tying in well with the rest of the brand’s collection. Perhaps the more exciting option, however, is the tapering stainless steel integrated bracelet. Like the case, it’s a brutalist and angular take on the integrated bracelet style, with chunky beveled links that call to mind the wild ‘70s Omega Speedsonic “Lobster” as well as more traditional touchstones. Lastly, the midnight blue textured calfskin leather strap allows for a slightly more luxe approach. All three options use the brand’s quick release interchangeable strap system, allowing for easy swapping on the fly.
With the 3 Timer Nord, Linde Werdelin has handsomely reimagined one of its core collections, doubling down on the elements that make the 3 Timer stand out while adding an icy and aggressive new flair. Only 55 examples of the Linde Werdelin 3 Timer Nord will be made, available now online and through authorized dealers at an MSRP of $5,738. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.