Some brands lean very heavily on a single model, to the extent that you might think that model is all the brand actually makes. While Parmigiani Fleurier certainly has other model lines, you’d be forgiven for thinking it only makes the Tonda PF. So focused on is the brand on the Tonda PF that you won’t even see its other collections — the Toric and Legacy lines — mentioned on its website’s home page. In fact, you have to view all watches and then filter by collection to even know they exist. Why would a brand focus so narrowly on a single-model family? Probably because the design for that family is beautiful and has been a huge success for the brand. That’s exactly the case with the Tonda PF, and for Watches and Wonders 2024, the brand is introducing a time-only edition of the micro-rotor watch, officially named the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date.

There isn’t a whole lot to say about this watch beyond the fact that it is a dateless version of the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor. If you know that watch, you know this watch and if you’re like me and thought the date ruined the texture and balance of the standard version’s dial, then you’ll welcome this edition with open arms. (The Tonda PF in 36mm has only ever been offered as a no-date, mind you.) This model features the same 40mm stainless steel case — the date version is also available in pink gold or platinum — and measures the same 7.8mm thick. The Tonda PF case is notable for its platinum bezel, half of which is hand-knurled, half of which is smooth, as well as its flared lugs that stand out from the case yet remain organic and maintain a fluid transition to the fitted bracelet. The watch has 100m water resistance and a screw-down crown, plus a sapphire crystal. The bracelet has brushed and polished finishing with a dramatic taper to its folding clasp. The thin case with lugs that drop below the caseback plane and transition into the fitted bracelet make the Tonda PF collection wear very well on almost any wrist.

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The dial is a new color dubbed Golden Siena, which reminds me a bit of the copper color of the recent Girard-Perregaux Laureato. As with all Tonda PF pieces, the dial has a Grain d’Orge barleycorn hand-guilloché pattern. No doubt the brand will expand this offering to include a few other dial colors, but for now, it’s stepping out with something unique, which I think is the right way to introduce a rather mundane update. To boot, the color is the closest Parmigiani has come to actual barleycorn. The dial has applied, angular hour markers and skeletonized hour and minute hands, complemented by the applied logo at 6 o’clock. All of the dial hardware is rhodium-plated. Surrounding the main dial is a recessed chapter ring with minute markings.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date is powered by the automatic caliber PF703, visible through the sapphire caseback crystal. This is the same movement as the dated Tonda PF, with the same number of components and thickness. The most likely explanation is that they simply swapped out the set lever for one that omitted the date stop. Bada boom — no date! There’s nothing wrong with that approach and it would be a waste of time and money to redevelop a movement to omit the date. No one else does, why should Parmigiani? The PF703 is described as a manufacture movement and offers a power reserve of 48 hours at 21,600 vph. It has a platinum micro-rotor, with striping, anglage, and perlage.

The most exciting thing about this release is certainly the color. While the collection has no shortage of color, with purples, blues, and greens available already, the golden hue chosen here adds yet another choice. For those like me who felt the date wasn’t quite right, this is an even better addition. For those of you who thought the dial was too open and expansive, you’d be better served elsewhere, I think. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor (Ref. PFC914-1020021-100182) is priced at $25,300 USD. For more information, please visit the Parmigiani website

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