So before talking about the new for 2014 Oris 110 watch, it is important to discuss the Calibre 110 movement. In short, it is a manually wound mechanical movement with a 10 day power reserve, “non-linear” power reserve, and a subsidiary seconds dial in addition to the time.
Oris is proud of the fact that it was able to achieve a very long power reserve in just one mainspring barrel. The spring itself is 1.8 meters long and the balance wheel operates at 21,600 bph (3 Hz). What is a “non-linear power reserve”? The term is a bit confusing, for sure. The idea is that the power reserve indicator hand does not move at a constant rate. As the spring gets more wound, the slower the hands moves. Alternatively, the hand moves faster when the spring is almost run down. This is represented on the power reserve scale as days 1-4 of power are spaced much wider apart than days 5-10. This isn’t really that big of a deal, but is something that Oris describes to help make the movement operation distinct.
The Caliber 110 movement itself is rather nice looking in an industrial sort of way. Oris didn’t want to produce yet another classic-looking movement as it doesn’t really fit with the theme of the brand. The movement view on the rear of the watch offers a look at the large mainspring barrel, and into some of the more interesting elements of the operation such as the snailed power reserve gears. I like how the fine adjustment screw is actually a gear that connects to the balance wheel assembly. The movement plates are brushed and I think it overall speaks to the utilitarian values of the brand nicely.
To debut the Calibre 110 movement Oris will produce a limited edition collection of watches known as the Oris 110 Years Limited Edition. The “110” part of the name refers to that fact that 2014 is the 110th anniversary of the brand. The watch will come in both steel and 18k rose gold versions and will represent the more classic side of Oris.
At 43mm wide the case is a nice size and certainly more dressy in style. I have to admit that Oris fares much better with their sport watches- as do other brands. So I continue to wonder why they choose dress watch collection to debut new movements versus sport watches. Nevertheless, the Oris 110 is a good looking watch with a traditional looking case and well-sized hands. The dial actually hints at Oris’ more sporty fare given the design of the subsidiary seconds dial and the power reserve indicator. The hour markers are applied and the dial is opaline silver in color. Each piece is matched to a black or brown crocodile strap.
Prices aren’t too bad either, given that it is an in-house made movement and that this is a limited edition debut of the collection. The Oris 110 Years Limited Edition ref. 01 110 7700 4081 in steel will retail for 5,500 Swiss Francs, and the ref. 01 110 7700 6081 in 18k rose gold will retail for 14,800 Swiss Francs. Each version is limited to just 110 pieces. oris.ch