One of the great innovations in luxury watchmaking over the past several years has been the wave of durable proprietary case materials, bringing sporty toughness and scratch resistance to a vast array of bespoke carbon compounds and gold alloys. Italian watchmaker Panerai has been a prolific contender in this industry-wide material arms race and, for its latest release, the brand ups the ante by creating a new exclusive case alloy that brings immense durability to the world’s most precious metal: platinum. The new limited-edition Panerai Platinumtech Luminor Marina offers the first showcase of this advanced new material, pairing the lustrous case with a unique earthy dial colorway.
While the signature 44mm Luminor case design of the Panerai Platinumtech Luminor Marina might feel familiar, the brand takes an unprecedented road to achieve this familiar look. The case material here is Platinumtech, a new in-house-developed platinum alloy that boasts far greater hardness than traditional alloys. The fully polished finish across the iconic cushion case, smooth bezel, and short straight lugs is far more difficult to achieve thanks to this harder surface, but in initial images, the shine looks to be consistent with Panerai’s standards. The Luminor’s distinctive locking crown mechanism is finished in a contrasting light brushing, adding a suitably rugged edge to this utilitarian element. One area where the Platinumtech Luminor Marina decidedly suffers, however, is its water resistance. Panerai claims a depth rating of only 50 meters for this watch with a long diving lineage.
The sandwich dial of the Panerai Platinumtech Luminor Marina is another brand hallmark, updated with a unique muted color scheme. The main dial surface itself is a satin sunburst in a slightly desaturated dark olive, offering an earthy contrast with the khaki lume used for the signature blend of cutout Arabic numerals and indices along with the pointed baton handset. This color scheme takes a slightly unorthodox turn, however, with the main handset and the sub-seconds hand at 9 o’clock. The blued finish on its own is a classic look, but the interplay with the warmer earth tones of the dial may prove divisive.
Underneath the sapphire display caseback of the Panerai Platinumtech Luminor Marina beats the in-house Caliber P.9010 automatic movement. Thanks to a twin mainspring barrel arrangement, the Caliber P.9010 offers a robust 72-hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate. Finishing is clean and elemental, with perlage across the baseplate contrasted by aggressive brushing over the bridges and rotor. The chamfered edges are brightly polished for a subtle flash.
Panerai finishes the Platinumtech Luminor Marina with a deep mahogany brown strap in alligator leather with contrasting beige stitching. This strap is paired with the brand’s oversized pin buckle in Platinumtech. This dark, masculine strap reinforces the more luxurious aspect of the Platinumtech alloy but also further evidences this model’s shift away from its roots as a dive watch. The brand will also include one extra strap of the buyer’s choice at point of purchase.
With an advanced new case alloy and a dramatic green colorway, the limited-edition Panerai Platinumtech Luminor Marina is one of the most distinctive offerings in the current Luminor line. Only 70 examples of the Panerai Platinumtech Luminor Marina will be made, protected by the brand’s exceptional 70-year warranty, and available now exclusively through Panerai boutiques. MSRP for the Panerai Platinumtech Luminor Marina stands at $36,900. For more details, please visit the brand’s website.