For Baselworld 2017, Pierre DeRoche unveils their latest novelty, the Pierre DeRoche TNT GMT Power Reserve 43. The latest renditions of the TNT Collection provide more reserved, and most importantly, more legible additions in a black and titanium color scheme and a black and tan. In a first for the TNT collection, both versions will feature an opaque dial and, of course, the Dubois Dépraz movements that the brand exclusively uses.
Those unfamiliar with Pierre DeRoche will be interested to know that it is a husband-and-wife duo behind the brand, and they are known for bringing to life some unique and original movement designs. The Pierre DeRoche TNT collection is arguably known for its Royal Retro series, which features six retrograde seconds hands on the dial. Personally, I’ve found the design rather busy, and while it’s certainly a unique and gorgeous set of timepieces, the Pierre DeRoche TNT GMT Power Reserve 43 brings a welcome legibility and conservative option that I feel the collection needed.
Both models sport a Dubois Dépraz calibre with a 42-hour power reserve and a GMT function controlled by the crown. The larger GMT register is placed at the 2 o’clock position, while the power reserve indicator is at 7 o’clock. This is a more edgy placement for the offset subdials, so I can understand some gripe from those who demand symmetry, but it is consistent with the overall rugged and sporty design.
Both Pierre DeRoche TNT GMT Power Reserve 43 cases measure in at 43mm and are made of titanium, with the more limited model (TNT10012ACTI2-002CAO) sporting a black DLC coating. Both feature 100m of water-resistance with front and back glare-proof sapphire crystal. These new Pierre DeRoche TNT GMT Power Reserve 43 watches come on a rubber strap with a folding clasp, and while I feel this is fitting for the natural titanium version, I would have liked to see the DLC version include a kevlar or cloth strap option to fit the overall tactical feel of the watch.
What I find most interesting is the design differences between the two. While the first may seem a “safe” and straightforward design, the DLC-coated, black-and-tan colorway is interesting and not that expected. Maybe you can chalk it up to apophenia, but it looks to me to to be part of a possible “mini trend” in watches.
The new TAG Heuer Calibre 16 had the black and sandy-tan colors, as did this Aquaracer 300 we reviewed. Outside of TAG, there was also the newest design from Zenith for Range Rover that isn’t far off, and here’s one from Bell & Ross. The “stealth trailblazer” look provides an almost tactical legibility that many outdoor enthusiasts are attracted to – and it’s also kind of stylish. With all the new watches we are seeing at Baselworld 2017, I am excited to see if more brands will adopt this style and how it is received.
In the case of this Pierre DeRoche TNT GMT Power Reserve 43, I think the brand has nailed it with this design in both colorways. The Pierre DeRoche TNT GMT Power Reserve 43 Ref TNT10012ACTI0-001CAO in titanium and steel is limited to 201 pieces, and the DLC black and sandy tan model ref. TNT10012ACTI2-002CAO is limited to 101 pieces. Both carry a price of 13,900 CHF. pierrederoche.com