Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine Watch

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine Watch

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine Watch Watch Releases

Vacheron Constantin, known for conservative design, traditional finishing, and high prices, recently expanded their Patrimony line with the Excellence Platine watch. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine has all of those things as an all-platinum, three-hand watch with classic looks but contemporary proportions. This could be viewed as one of Vacheron's answers to watches such as the Patek Philippe 5196P and A. Lange & Söhne's Saxonia.

The Patrimony line of watches is Vacheron's take on refreshing the classic dress watch look and design for modern tastes. The Collection Excellence Platine is a phrase Vacheron uses for limited edition watches they release with cases and dials made from 950 platinum. This particular watch's most distinctive design signature is the case which, as mentioned, is 950 platinum with a thin, polished bezel and simple curved lugs, and is 42mm in diameter. It is also a slim watch at 7.65mm and, based on my experience with previous Patrimony offerings, it may wear rather large for a dress watch and can feel like strapping a dinner plate to your wrist. That is partly because the thin bezel allows the actual dial opening to be larger, resulting in significant wrist presence.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine Watch Watch Releases

The dial on the Excellence Platine is convex-shaped and also made from 950 platinum which is then sandblasted. Keeping with the classic theme, it is simple and minimally decorated. The baton hour markers and primary hands are polished 18ct white gold (Why? Cost-cutting by not going with platinum?), with a heat-blued steel seconds hands adding a little much-needed color to the dial. A perplexing design feature, to me, can be found between the 4 o'clock and 5 o'clock markers, where the "Pt950" hallmark is printed. I see no reason why this couldn't have been incorporated somewhere more discreet. And if the intent was to afford bragging rights, it's too subtle for that, being almost the same tone as the dial.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine Watch Watch Releases

In my opinion, the movement is the highlight of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine watch. The caliber 4400 AS, is a manually wound, time-only movement that provides 65 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800bph, and it is stamped with the Geneva Seal as many other Vacheron Constantin watches are. For a watch at this price point, though, many people might want more unique finishing or decoration than what is offered here.

We will assume it to be executed to the brand's and the Geneva Seal's high standards, but the choices for the finishing are very traditional - though that is in keeping with the watch's conservative character. Heat blued screws, for instance, may have added some color, and the Geneva stripes and chamfering are more or less expected. At this price level, the movement is meant to be as much, if not more, of a visual treat than the dial for watches - so I wish they had done something a little more "exciting." The movement is on display through a sapphire crystal case back, and the watch is rated at 30m of water resistance.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine Watch Watch Releases

I have two primary issues with the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine (yes, that's a mouthful). First, if not for watch release articles like this one, many watch collectors and enthusiasts would have no idea that a new watch was launched. Vacheron could arguably do a better job of communicating with its customers and letting them know about new product offerings.

The other issue is more subjective, and that is that this watch leaves me with a feeling of ambivalence. As someone who enjoys classically styled dress watches and is a fan of the Patek 5196 and Lange Saxonia, I feel underwhelmed. The phrase "close, but no cigar" comes to mind. This watch has a whole lot of platinum in it (apparently, there's some platinum in the stitching on the strap too!), but not much else to set it apart from some of the other Patrimony offerings.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine Watch Watch Releases

With a price that is nearly double an A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia or Patek Philippe 5196 in white gold, this watch definitely has its work cut out for it. But perhaps the limited edition component and all that platinum is enough of an appeal to get some collectors excited. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine will be produced in a limited, numbered run of 150 pieces and ships on a blue alligator strap with a 950 platinum half-Maltese cross buckle for a price of $37,400. vacheron-constantin.com

What do you think?
  • Classy (18)
  • Interesting (11)
  • I want it! (9)
  • Thumbs up (7)
  • I love it! (7)
  • Pete Pete

    just beautiful.

  • TrevorXM

    Not that I’m the target audience for these watches, but I would take the Patek over this one any day. And I’m a way bigger fan of VC than Patek. The Patek is the iconic Calatrava and in white gold it would be surprisingly versatile for a dress watch compared to this one or the Lange.

    • egznyc

      PP in white gold is definitely a pretty watch and has a LOT more character than this. (I take it the 5196P on the other hand, has a little TOO MUCH character in your view?)

      • TrevorXM

        No, I like it.

  • MEddie90

    Discussions of case dial and price aside the caliber 4400 has to be one on the finest manual winds movements out there. Simple, classic, serviceable and beautifully laid out. The gear train bridge is gorgeous and shows of the train and barrel. The use of a smaller ratchet wheel is a clever way of simplifying things and keeping the movement thin. And the finish is stunning, even Kari V, one of the top finishers in the business nods his head to the 4400.

    http://www.thehourlounge.com/en/vacheron-constantin-articles/dream-team-historiques-american-1921-and-caliber-4400-563416

  • b-spain

    Boring has never looked this tame. Sub-seconds so far above six gives away a petite movement from a time when VC actually was a respectable brand. At $37,400 this is the watch to get your 80-something textile-magnate dad who’s second home is Waldorf Astoria.

  • Word Merchant

    This is a truly lovely watch. I’m just debating with myself whether the presence of the small seconds enhances the layout of the dial by providing a well placed piece of contrast for the eye to focus on, or whether it detracts from the dial because the hands and markers don’t match the main dial’s at all. On balance, I think it works. But tomorrow I might not. I like this more than the Patek you mention (not surprised, not a Patek fan), but I also think I like this a little more than the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia (surprised).

    No idea whether the price is sensible for what you get: I’ve become entirely desensitised to five-figure watches.

  • BrJean

    Quickly! Remove this ugly, annoying, symmetry-breaking ‘Pt950’ hallmark at 4:30…

    …by cutting date window there! Just kidding. This is a pretty watch with a pretty movement.

    • Moonraker

      I second that! Date at 4:30, please.

  • Spangles

    Very classy.

    I confess, I hate the platinum stitching on the strap. Every two years, you’ll pay $1,000 for the strap, thanks to the stitching. Boo. And before someone who doesn’t think chimes in with ” if you can afford the watch, then you must necessarily never, ever consider the cost or value of anything, ever”: I can afford this watch, and the strap bugs me.

    • simon

      I was told by an AD that the strap is $2400usd to replace. Consider that.

      • Spangles

        Jeez, updated my post.

        That is nuts. And asinine.

    • egznyc

      Funnily enough, I consider the strap to be one of the nicer elements of this package. Sure, it’s out of my league, but it’s subtle and beautiful IMO (Okay, the movement is reasonably nice, too, but not $37,000 nice.)

      • Spangles

        Looks nice but $2,400 is total BS for a strap.

        • egznyc

          You’re right, of course. But if the price were $200 …

  • simon

    37,400 dollars for this? Come on guys….its a time only. Has anyone ever checked the price of platinum versus gold lately? Platinum is actually cheaper than gold per ounce (24k $1296, 18k $972, Plat $979), and the same for 18k versus 950. So please lets just save the whole speech that its platinum. Secondly, the caliber 4400 is their base caliber these days. They put it in almost everything. The Movement doesn’t hack, and its not even within chronometer spec. Finally they do a 150 piece “limited edition” and charge an absurd amount. There are two types of people who buy this……ones who have ridiculous amounts of money (god bless you by the way)…..and suckers. Don’t be a sucker. Ariel should have written this review.

    • Moonraker

      Platinum’s a lot harder to work, or so they always say.

      • JimBob

        It’s not $30k harder to work than SS.

      • simon

        oh yeah your right….I guess that solves the 20 k disparity. You should be in a watch PR/Marketing field.

        • Moonraker

          I didn’t say I agreed with the pricing. And I don’t know how much they’re asking for an equivalent piece in gold, but I’m sure that’s way too high as well. I was just saying it’s not as simple as price per ounce.

      • SuperStrapper

        It is, that much is true. I love it as a metal but usually end up confused I. It’s use as a watch material other than, like a tourbillon, an excuse to run costs up. Especially in ‘high complication’ works, specifically chiming watches. It has absolutely abysmal resonance properties and I always feel like it’s an insult to the movement.

        • Moonraker

          I was going to say chiming watches. It would make sense to use it for the case if it had benefits in that realm, but I guess not, eh?

          • SuperStrapper

            No. Gold and platinum are terrible choices for a chiming watch case material, and also happen to both be the first choice. To up the ‘luxury’ of them. The bvlgari Octo repeater and hublot fusion cathedral in titanium (I’ve never heard the PP 5208T, but im sure it sounds similar) are among the nicest sounding chiming watches I’ve heard thanks to better case materials. The hideous SO supersonnerie is maybe the loudest, but the advancements in volume detracted from chiming elegance in my opinion.

          • Moonraker

            Did FP Journe ever do a chimer in tantalum? I know he’s done some in steel.

          • SuperStrapper

            I know of a few steel chiming watches, but I think they are mostly ‘on request’ (Habring, for instance).

      • Berndt Norten

        Codswallop

  • egznyc

    It’s a little boring, which is a real shame (along with a sky-high price). I love the idea of a lot of platinum, but please – this needs some excitement! And that Pt 950 mark on the dial is disgusting. Ruins the whole experience for me.

    I’d much prefer a PP 5196 (NOT P) or a Saxonia (with small seconds), if I had a realistic chance to consider something at this level. And yes, I like VC as a brand (not like I’ve ever owned one but, you know, window-shopping-wise …).

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Say what you like, i absolutely love this watch. Pure understated elegance. Can’t fault it. I want it big time.

    • Chaz

      Okay, which body snatcher bored itself into the noggin of Wilkie???

      • Raymond Wilkie

        My noggin is just fine, People go on too much about the price of materials and compare one for another. A block of marble is worthless until Michelangelo gets his hands on it. You want the name, pay for it.

        • Spangles

          Don’t worry Raymond, we’ll find a way to get the alien out!

          • Raymond Wilkie
          • SuperStrapper

            Still one of the best movies of all time.

          • Raymond Wilkie

            That award goes to Empire of the sun.(1987)

          • SuperStrapper

            It’s a subjective opinion. And I said ‘one of’ not simply ‘the’.

          • Moonraker

            Raymond’s 2nd favorite movie: Dougal Does Dundee. It’s very raunchy.

          • Berndt Norten

            No. It goes to Tommy Boy.

          • Mark1884

            Sorry. “The Shootist” John Wayne 1976

          • Raymond Wilkie

            His last film with wee Ronnie Howard. Wasn’t bad. Preferred Rooster Cogburn…………….moving on.

          • Berndt Norten

            Sorry we’re both wrong. Of course, the best film of all time is the 1989 Troma production, “Chopper Chicks in Zombietown.”

          • Blade Runner is probably my favorite movie. But gotta be careful which cut.

          • egznyc

            One of the most effectively nausea-inducing scenes of all time. I’m not particularly squeamish but damn, that’s f***ed up!

          • Moonraker

            Thanks for the pleasant gif.
            Serves you right for eating at Chick-fil-Alien.

    • Me too. I like it more than the Patek. The Lange Saxonia is however really handsome as well.

    • IG

      Wow, Raymond you surprise me.

      • Raymond Wilkie

        Am always going on about watches being busy and pointy, this is heaven.

  • Chaz

    VC spirals even faster into irrelevancy compared to its more nimble, fast adjusting competition.

    Maybe Richemont can unload them to the Chinese or Arabs?

  • James Miller

    Beautiful watch, no doubt. But if I’m considering an expensive dress time piece, I can get three Piaget Antiplanos for the price of this watch.

  • Phil leavell

    I much prefer the understated dress watch. I like the size on this, I noticed no wrist shots but you have to have a wrist wear this watch. I got lucky at an estate sale and got a really great price on a VC I sold it within days of buying it .to much money to put on my wrist and it was just too small.

  • SuperStrapper

    Why would I pay almost $40k for a nap when I can already take one for free.

  • Yan Fin

    Is there a Kickstarter pre-production offer?

  • otaking241

    I know that VC is one of those legendary, storied marques that everyone is supposed to love and respect but in this case I can’t help but feel like that’s all you’re buying. Movement is nothing special to look at, design is bland in the extreme (“conservative” doesn’t quite do it justice) and the handset, indices and other bits that are supposed to set watches at this price level apart from the herd look like they came from a parts bin.

    If you want a Swiss-made, conservative dress watch with an in-house movement and a similar aesthetic and level of polish buy yourself something from F.C. Constant and use the difference to get a BMW.

  • Marius

    Although the Patrimony Traditionelle has always been my favourite Vacheron dress watch, I have to say that this is quite an interesting offering from Vacheron.

    Personally, I have always associated Vacheron with thin and elegant dress watches, and this timepiece clearly doesn’t dissapoint. The dial as well as the case are elegant, refined, and very classy. One can immediately notice that this is an “aristocratic” watch.

    Furthermore, the 4400 movement is my favourite Vacheron in-house caliber (two shortcomings are that this caliber doesn’t hack, and doesn’t feature a free-sprung balance wheel). It has a 65-hour power reserve, but uses only a single barrel, as opposed to most watches that use a double barrel system for longer reserves. What’s more, as Kari Voutilainen explained, VC uses a high number of 28 jewels, so that the movement is as long-lasting as possible. In fact, the serviceability aspect was very important for Vacheron, as their goal was to create a high-end movement that was extremely easy to service, as opposed to brands like Lange, AP, or Journe, whose calibers require special tools. I also like the aesthetics of this caliber: the architecture is a pure genevan style, and the finishing is very good. This is what Voutilainen had to say about the decoration: “The quality of this movement is much higher than what we see in other high end brands. This is the first modern caliber I see finished so well.”

    Nevertheless, I also have two big problems with this watch.

    Firstly, I never understood the purpose of platinum cases. Platinum is a precious metal that commands a significant premium, yet looks almost identical to stainless steel. So why spend so much on a watch that doesn’t really stand out? If you like understatement, just buy a steel JLC/Blancpain/GO and save yourself a lot of money.

    Secondly, while this watch is certainly a fine and refined timepiece, I just don’t think it’s worth $38,000. Granted, VC is a great brand, but as Walt Odets and Carlos Perez explained, after the Quartz Crisis, the main objective of Patek, VC, and AP was to favour quantity over quality. Right now, Vacheron manufactures over 40,000 watches/year, so we’re not exactly talking about a super exclusive manufacture that produces really high-grade watches. Personally, if I had to spend around $40,000 on a time-only watch, I would look at low-volume manufacturers such as Journe, Laurent Ferrier, and so on.

    • TrevorXM

      I agree with the concept of buying a more exclusive watch once you get to $40k. A Journe would just seem a lot more special than this VC. Journe with those gold movements must be amazing in person. Haven’t seen one. No dealers in YVR. However if I’m going to spend the big bucks on a Journe it would have to be either the poetic Chronometre à Resonance or the fascinating Chronometre Optimum. And those watches cost a lot more than $40k.

    • Moonraker

      Thoughts on white gold?

      • Marius

        To be honest, I dislike white gold even more than platinum. At least platinum has an interesting shine; it won’t fade or change color; and, being a dense metal, platinum cases have an imposing weight.

        On the other hand, white gold cases don’t have the same weight & heft; their color is not very attractive; and more importantly, most white-gold cases are Rhodium plated, which means that you have to re-finish the cases once the Rhodium peels off. As far as I know, the latest Patek Philippe models don’t utilize the Rhodium plating any longer because Patek uses a white gold alloy that includes Palladium among other components. This means that you don’t have to re-polish the case, but the downside is that this new white gold has a more greyish tone, whereas the Rhodium plated version is more shiny.

        • Mark1884

          Stick with red gold!

          • egznyc

            There is this other color of gold that was once quite popular, which some call yellow gold – though I just like to call it gold gold … 😉

          • Mark1884

            Yes.. I do seem to remember something about another color of gold : )
            I like red/rose/pink gold because it is something different. It was very popular back in time, then seemed to fade away. I do like 24k yellow gold, too soft for a watch but suitable for some jewelry.

            As stated, white gold looks too much like SS. Being a watch snob, I do not want anyone to confuse my gold watch with SS!

          • Moonraker

            How will the pajamas-in-public crowd know it’s a first-place trophy if it looks like second-place silver?

          • Mark1884

            Yes..Yes. You are reading my mind!!
            Hey….. do I really like pickled pigs feet….. or is that you????
            Get out of my head!!!!!

          • Moonraker

            Damn you, Mark! Why do I keep visiting these “date a ladyboy” websites??

          • Mark1884

            Sorry, never did that until I came to ABTW???
            Marius!!!!!!!

          • Moonraker

            He’s marionetting us all!

          • Those uber ruch usually don’t mingle with the proletariat… 🙂

          • egznyc

            Nothing wrong with a little snobbery heh heh. 22k yellow gold is still plenty yellow, although I suppose 18k is the preferred choice for many things. I hadn’t realized red gold was so popular in the past; it just seems all the rage for gents’ expensive dress watches these days.

            Platinum is a nice “stealth” metal, but sounds like you’re just not that into stealth. 😉 It doesn’t tarnish, either, but unlike SS it’s a lot heavier. So it has some presence – not to mention the elitist element (no pun intended … right).

          • Mark1884

            Yes, 22k is also very nice. 18k is the standard for gold in watches, while 14k seems to be the standard in jewelry. (My wife prefers 24k jewelry)
            Red gold was really popular back in the 40’s era. It started making a strong comeback some years ago. Many manufactures are using red gold or red gold plating now in the designer jewelry/watch arena. Like so many things, old is new again!!
            Platinum is a premium metal and has its place.

          • Moonraker
          • egznyc

            Oh yes, uranium. That’s a metal even heavier than platinum but oddly enough I’ve never heard of its use in casing watches ;-).

          • Moonraker
          • Berndt Norten

            That takes the cake, Rake.

          • Moonraker

            Am I cakish, sir?

          • Berndt Norten

            Unless your name is Caleigh Duquesne, no talk about your cakes, Mr Xzbit

          • Moonraker

            Calleigh Duquesne got dem cakes.

          • Berndt Norten

            Right, da babe is so bootylicious she gets two lls. Didn’t good ol LL Cool J have something to say bout dem big cakes?

          • Sheez Gagoo

            I’m a simple guy. I like my elements non-isotoped and my atoms unsplit without neutron emissions.

          • Moonraker

            And with frosting!

          • Berndt Norten

            How do u feel about doing the Neutron Dance?!

          • Sheez Gagoo

            Neutral.

        • egznyc

          Yeah white gold seems like such an oxymoron, like white chocolate. Platinum, on the other hand, is very low-maintenance (so I’m told).

          • Moonraker

            White milk? Oh, you mean milk. 🙂 I actually like the color of unplated white gold (not necessarily Patek’s), but I know a lot of people don’t like it, hence the plating. But I also don’t mind the color of titanium (I’m more bothered by its finish). I know that there are some people that don’t like titanium much either.

          • egznyc

            Titanium looks great … for bolting wings onto planes. 😉

          • Berndt Norten

            The milk of human kindness

    • Luciano

      I would add that it’s a bit too large for the watch it is (a dress watch).

      • TrevorXM

        You’re right! I missed that. 42mm? Why?

    • Then perhaps a gift for your most deserving ladyboy, maybe? With the added advantage that you can bask on your own magnanimous magnificence every time you see it at (not sure of pronoun here) wrist? 🙂

  • Moonraker

    So it’s thin but heavy, because of the platinum, and it’s probably a little too wide for its thinness at 42. Need to see some wrist shots.

  • Mark1884

    I like VC and this watch…. But I prefer the Breguet 7147 over this, for an elegant dress watch.

  • Sheez Gagoo

    Not bad. The second subdial and the blued second hand look weird on this dial and there’s little contrast between the hour and minute hand and the dial.
    The price seemes acceptable compared to other platinum watches altough most competitors offer more complications. I’m not so the dress watch guy but I quite like this and the extremly underestimated Piagets.

  • JimBob

    #FightThePatrimony

  • Ross Diljohn

    If I were an effete Swedish industrialist or perhaps just a raving alcoholic that likes nice suits (are they both the same thing?) then perhaps I would consider this watch.

  • Simon_Hell

    This is a perfect coffin watch. Leaving in style – as they say. It has that calm dignity you would expect on a wrist of a dead douchebag. I mean even the company’s name sounds morbid and eerie, and the logo looks like a dog tag of some three headed nazi Cerberus.

    • Berndt Norten

      Du bist ein Arschloch

      • Moonraker

        What’s that ass violin that Sheez Gagoo was talking about? Arschgeige?

        • benjameshodges

          I think this went off topic.

        • Sheez Gagoo

          In this case I suggest the good old Swiss-Alleman “Schafseckel”.

      • Moonraker

        A species of duck?

        • Berndt Norten

          It’s French and no that’s not quite what it means. But I think you know that don’t you? And I bet you’re wondering…did he fire five puns or six?

        • Framlucasse

          Duck is canard. Connard is another species.

    • Dénes Albert

      Norse troll humour for jaded palates. Not my favourite flavour. Also, you might want to check out the history of what you term as “logo”, it’s quite edifying: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maltese_cross

  • GCabot

    I have to echo the complaints of many others:

    1. 42mm is too large for a dress watch.

    2. If you are buying a platinum watch, you clearly want it to be understated. Hence, why the hallmark on the dial is so offensive.

    3. Ditto with the platinum threading on the strap—not only does it needlessly add to this watch’s already exorbitant cost, the contrast stitching takes away from the dressiness of the entire package.

    4. Worst of all, this is stuck with VC’s antiquated and base-line cal. 4400. At least the previous Traditionnelle version had the illustrious cal. 1120 inside of it.

  • Garrett Hu

    Unless missed something, you said limited to 150 but the number in the case back shows 100.

    Anyways, I like this watch, it’s a bit large and I think 39mm-39.5mm would be perfect. But hey, people that buy watches in the sub 5 digits are mostly folks that buy, then are out of the market for a while…but I feel people that can drop $40k for a watch are not restricted financially in the same way, rather they are just waiting for the next thing to excite them.

    So for that kind of customer, he or she probably already has all kinds of conservative dress watches but perhaps wants a larger wrist presence. A watch that allows them to show off a bit but also be conservative in design.

    They pulled this off well, they are only going to make 100 and that’s probably about the number of folks that this is for.

  • I saw the watch and felt asleep zzzZZZZZzzzzz.

    • Chemistman

      Josh dat you? Wake up and take the trash put !

  • BNABOD

    I can see that for some that dress up in style And have a decent sized bank account such a watch could be on the books. Me I would never ever wear it. I suppose someone’s fancy piece is someone else’s dull piece. Just not my thing at all even though the movement is pretty to look at

  • Framlucasse

    42mm is really too much for a dress watch…

  • William Jones

    I love this watch. I really do. The price is totally ridiculous. I wish someone would make this in stainless steel. I really like this watch.

  • Yanko

    42 mm is big. VC should look at stainless steel. Forget platinum. I recently saw a new release by Perrelet, the so called “Weekend” watch. 39 mm, 9.5 thick. Just gorgeous. I like it better than this VC.

  • Ulysses31

    A decade ago I would’ve been all over something like this. It has a certain understated elegance along with some interesting subtle twists like those metal spheres as markers. Still, I think I would get tired with it pretty quickly. I don’t mean weeks, but within a few hours of wearing it. I need to wear a watch that indicates i’m still alive. No, that doesn’t mean a smartwatch with a pulsometer.

  • Han Cnx

    Some wrist shots would have been helpful here to judge the superficially quite insane size of 42mm. (This is a review based just on the press release photos, isn’t it?) Don’t run out and do shots because of me though, I’m not in the target market. 😉

  • I would choose this over the Patek any time. Any time I break out of this tax bracket I’m in, I meant to say.

  • FrankD51

    Very high priced. And it suffers the fate of a small movement in a large case, I.e. the seconds dial rides way too high, it’s completely unbalanced. That eliminates it for me.

    • IG

      Actually the subdial could be bigger, isn’t riding high.

  • IG

    With centre second it’d have been better.

  • Phil

    Is this made of platinum?