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Longines Heritage Military COSD Watch

Longines Heritage Military COSD Watch Watch Releases

With the Heritage line, Longines has been leveraging their design history to produce some supremely cool watches, including the Legend Diver, Avigation (reviewed here), and the Heritage Diver 1967 (hands-on here). Adding to that collection with the brand new Longines Heritage Military COSD, Longines has designed a watch in reference to a model used by the British Special Forces in the 1940s. With a clean field watch aesthetic, accessible sizing, and the option of a nato strap, the Longines Heritage Military COSD plays to the same appeal established by its siblings.

The Longines Heritage Military COSD’s 40mm steel case can be had with either a matte black or opaline (off-white) dial. Both dial options have bold railway minute scales, legible arabic numerals, and a 24-hour scale in red (in reference to the original design, seen below). With luminous elements at each hour, the black dial has a rhodium-plated handset while the opaline dial uses a blued steel handset. The dials also sport Britain’s broad arrow symbol, in reference to the military equipment nature of the original Longines Heritage Military COSD.

Longines Heritage Military COSD Watch Watch Releases

Finished with a screw-down solid case back and anti-reflective sapphire crystal up front, while the Longines Heritage Military COSD mimics the look of a watch that is some 75 years old, I think it stands as an example of timeless design rather than a simple bid towards the trend of “vintage-inspired.”

The movement is a fitting choice for a military-inspired watch; the simple but massively effective ETA 2892/A2 (dubbed the Longines caliber L619.2). With 4Hz, 21 jewels, and 42 hours of power reserve, the 2892 was used by Omega for movements like their 1120 and was even the basis for their early co-axial movement, the 2500. In short, the 2892 may not be flashy, but it is reliable, easy to service, and more than capable of excellent timekeeping.

Longines Heritage Military COSD Watch Watch Releases

The 40mm sizing makes the COSD accessible to a lot of wrists and, with a thickness of 9.95 mm, the Longines Heritage Military COSD should wear well. The 2892 is an impressively thin movement, so it’s certainly possible that the Longines Heritage Military COSD will sit low on wrist. Judging by the images, the lugs appear to be quite long and it’s hard to judge how sloped they are – more on that when we get a chance to go hands on with the COSD. I rather like the look of the blued hands and raised luminous elements on the opaline dial.

Longines Heritage Military COSD Watch Watch Releases

Coming from Longines and being ETA-powered, the Longines Heritage Military COSD is attractively priced from US$1700 on the nato strap or $1900 on a black leather strap. With a casual nato-happy style, wearable proportions, a reliable movement, and some military history for good measure, the Longines Heritage Military COSD looks like a winning formula from Longines. longines.com

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  • Hydra

    Looks nice…but is it worth 1700$? You can find quite many similiar watches for less than 1000$.

    • I agree and if this was a Tissot (another Swatch brand) I think it would be priced less. But Swatch positions their brands in a certain price/segment order. So given a set of specs, a Longines will cost more than a Tissot. Kinda wrong but that’s how they do it. Even at $1200 this would be a pretty good deal. For under $1K you often get an ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW 200 (both of which are fine movements) – the only real world difference is a 1.0 mm thinner movement for the 2892 (or SW 300). Hopefully, as James noted, Longines put this thin movement to good use in a thin case (in the 10 mm range).

      • Chaz

        Wonder if they at least gave it the 80 hr power reserve movement found in the Tissots?

        BTW, MC – stumbled upon some of your offerings at Japaha today! I was wondering what happened when the previous place became a Snoopy t-shirt outlet!

        • Hi Chaz. Yeah Japaha in Waikiki, Windward Jewelers in Kailua, and Pacific Diamond in Pearl City all carry my watches these days. BlackPoint in the Sheraton Waikiki was a casualty of the decline in the Japanese Yen’s value about a year ago. Almost overnight store revenue plummeted last Fall and so the owner put in the same T-Shirts and other items as in his other Moni store on Kalakaua. The last watches were pulled from showcases about a month ago.

          What did you think of my new “Sport” watches at Japaha?

          Back to the Longines – since they are using the 2892, then it’s the stated 40 something hour power reserve. The “Power 80” movement with the 80 hour reserve runs at 3 Hz (not 4 Hz). Aloha buddy.

          • smoothsweeper

            [off-topic] You may have been asking Chaz, but your post brought me to your site nonetheless. The new sport watches are really nice. Really, really nice. The interplay between the infinity strap and the case brings the whole design together. This is the watch your unique case was made for. Consider putting some wrist shots on the site – the photos on the front page make them look significantly smaller than the traditional offerings (not that my wimpy wrists would mind a smaller watch, but I digress ;)). [/off-topic]

          • I’m having professional photos taken but they aren’t done yet, hence the low quality photos on my website. But yeah, I will need some good wrist shots too (which are not being done at the moment). Here is a quick one I posted on my Facebook page a while back: https://www.facebook.com/IndividualDesignHawaii/photos/a.274871259286335.51866.259714650801996/736882769751846/?type=3&theater
            Once I get the pro photos, I will run a special through the end of the year. Let me know if I can hook you up.

          • iamcalledryan

            Very interesting Mark – tell me there is bags of lume on those hands and markers!

          • The hands have better lume than the Victorinox INOX I got from ABTW as a top commenter recently. Lume on the hour markers is not as thick so not as outstanding. https://www.facebook.com/IndividualDesignHawaii/photos/pcb.734858543287602/734857526621037/?type=3&theater
            This is off topic, so send me an email if you want more info. Mark AT MarkCarson DOT com

          • spiceballs

            Nice, Mark.

        • SuperStrapper

          The way that the extended power reserve is achieved is technically not with a new movement, but with an adjustment to the existing one (2824). It is knocked down from 4hz to 3hz, which eats less power. The downside to this is that it reduces the smoothness of the seconds hand. I have a Carson to a friend about 2 years ago (not one of your relatives, Mark: a Tissot Carson) with the ‘powermatic 80’ movement, and I could immediately see the seconds hand looked a little different, but not painfully so. I assume this modified movement is also made out of arcap, which is a steel-less metal alloy with significant anti-magnetic properties. I assume this because the powermatic movement also does away with any kind of escapement regulation. The movement’s rate is set at the factory with lasers and magic, and then can’t be adjusted. It wouldn’t make sense to develop a un-regulateable escapement for a movement that was susceptible to magnetism.

          I’m not sure if the powermatic 80 is restricted to Tissot or not, but with everything in question here part of the Swatch family, you’d think they would pass it around the table a bit. It I a fairly cool step forward that was introduced quietly and almost unnoticed.

          • DanW94

            I know Certina uses it and I believe Hamilton does to, with their H-10, H-20 and H-30 movements.

  • I_G

    These are some… long lugs.

  • DanW94

    I love Longines and a host of their designs and watches, but if you like this look and you’re on a budget, you might want to consider this one from Seiko. But if you preference is the vintage Longines, that’s cool too, it’s a nice looking watch with a proven movement.

    • Shinytoys

      I own this watch…love it…

    • Beefalope

      The Seiko makes a heck of a lot more sense than the Longines.

    • Federico G.

      Seiko 5s’ movement is really rubbish. Better go with a quartz…I had two, I know what I am saying…writing.

      • DanW94

        I haven’t had any problems with mine, while you have. Kind of a small sample size to speak to it’s overall reliability : )

        • Federico G.

          Well, if you follow the Seiko scene you should know that the caliber inside the 5s is not really that good. People still buy them because they feel like “oh look at me I have an automatic without spending a lot of money on a swiss watch”.

          • spiceballs

            Methinks you presume too much? I did not buy my Seiko 5 (Pepsi Diver) for that reason at all. I enjoy it very much and couldn’t give a toss what other people think. The movement may not last as long as my Rolex Explorer but then I can easily replace without “breaking the bank”.

          • dennis

            true, the movements get better when you get into the 6r15, 6r20a
            that have hacking and manual wind, and you have the Grand Seiko
            movements, top shelf.

      • Berndt Norten

        Basic and unrefined, yes. But rubbish? Not sure about that. Bare bones and reliable but yes, nothing to get excited about.

        • Federico G.

          Reliable a Seiko 5? You can rely on the fact that eventually it will a lot of minutes.

          • Berndt Norten

            Sorry to hear you had a bad experience with yours. So far, mine have performed just fine, losing about a 50 seconds to one minute per week. For $80, that’s good enough for me.

          • Shinytoys

            indeed !

          • dennis

            I agree, have one, loses a minute a day or more, but a good
            watch for the price.

          • Shinytoys

            sorry partner, that simply is not true…

    • Berndt Norten

      I have a black dial and blue dial of this watch. I changed the straps to leather and it looks like an entirely different watch. In the summer, I use the original canvas? strap. Amazing value! I paid about $80 per watch. The blue dial one is five years old. It takes a licking and it’s still ticking. The black dial is 3 years old. Both going strong.

  • iamcalledryan

    Pretty nice – for a second their I thought he original model was the new one and they had upped the heritage game from beige lume to fake aging! Please, no funny ideas watchmakers!

    • DanW94

      What, no love for the faux patina? lol…

      • iamcalledryan

        I thought nothing of it at first, but the more I think of it the less I like it. Nothing beats patina like patina, and manufacturers should still be making “heritage” models but make them like new and have the confidence that they will patina over time as the product is worn and passed on.

        • egznyc

          We live in an era where we expect instant gratification. Come to think of it, I’m surprised we aren’t seeing more faux-tropical (brown) dials on vintage-inspired pieces thes days.

  • Lurch

    I like this Longines – the military look is pretty good with the black dial. This is the military watch I have and I paid $75 for it.

    • Federico G.

      This one is cool, but the movement in Seiko 5s is rubbish. Better to go with a quartz really.

      • Lurch

        You are probably right. The movement doesn’t hack and you can’t manually wind it. I wanted this as a solar watch but didn’t like the look of Citizen or Seiko’s military style in solar.

        • DanW94

          Agree, the lack of a manual wind feature can be a pain, but consider the price range you’re in…

          • Lurch

            I agree. However, I would rather have an automatic movement without manual wind then a manual wind only movement. I have both and the manual wind needs to be wound every single day at around the same day which is inconvenient at times.

        • egznyc

          So I guess you won’t be turning to your mates in the fox hole and announcing, “synchronize our watches at 05:00 hours in five, four … Other than that this looks good given what you paid!

          • Lurch

            You’re right. If I am getting ready for a bazooka attack, I won’t be able to set my watch to strike when the team does. But that is ok with me. My military days are behind me and I am enjoying the civilian life.

      • Shinytoys

        You lost me when you said that Seiko movements are rubbish…

    • Shinytoys

      absolutely spot on !

  • Shinytoys

    A lot of watch for the asking price with a sweet proven motor under the hood. Still, I believe there are others to be considered like Dan posted below. Yes, it is Japanese, but it has the same bulletproof movement that’s proven itself time and time again. I also paid $49.00 for it on WOW, brand new, all the correct packing. It’s tough not to love the bargain price and overall feel of the watch.

  • Beefalope

    That’s a lot of money for what appears to be a pretty mediocre watch.

  • Federico G.

    Personally I would not buy anything from Longines but the Legend Diver. This one looks nice though.

  • AKDISQUS

    No military in the world going to equip soldiers with a 1.7K watch. What’s next? Longines Caliphate Terrorist collection?

    • egznyc

      Well one never knows. Seems unlikely, I know, but I have a friend who served in his country’s military over 40 years ago and he still has his Rolex SeaDweller that was issued to him at the time.

  • SuperStrapper

    I like it. Big fan of those looooooong lugs. Do they go all the way up, baby? I am disappointed that the reissue didn’t keep the same seconds hand design as the original. I like that look.

    • Greg Street

      Couldn’t agree more, the second hand surely costs peanuts but adds so much.

  • Stephen Scharf

    Interesting; I find the original to be *much* more interesting that the new (revival) models.

  • Josh Graves

    Seems OK, but it is about $1k overpriced.

  • spiceballs

    As others have noted – nice but not cheap. But it is Longines, a brand whose designs I like.

  • Richard Mui

    A $1700 watch that comes on a $10 nato? No thanks, I’ll keep my Tudor Heritage Ranger

  • otaking241

    Feels a bit more “vintage-inspired” than some of the other great watches coming out of this collection. Would have appreciated some of the cooler details like soldered lugs and that cool canteen-style stem/crown combo. Looots of other watches can be had with a similar aesthetic, so it was up to Longines to set themselves apart, and I don’t think they succeeded.

  • CortexUK the quitter

    Sold.

    If it was £500.

  • Ross Diljohn

    This is not a $1700 watch. This is one of the things that upsets me about these watch brands. The lack of value is insulting.

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