Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph Watch Hands-On

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph Watch Hands-On

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

As a watch enthusiast, any Chopard L.U.C should pique your interest. L.U.C is a tribute to the brand’s founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, and represents Chopard’s haute horology wing. With the new Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph, the brand elevates the hand-wound movement we know and love from the 1963 Chronograph with an eye-catching and wonderfully detailed new model.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph uses a 45mm-wide 18k Fairmined white gold case. Thickness is 15mm, and while the watch is undoubtedly large, its short lugs make it quite wearable on my 7-inch wrist. Fairmined gold is a result of mines being certified for a variety of factors including safety, social concerns, and environmental protection. This is a more responsible way of sourcing gold, one that is designed to ensure the long-term viability of smaller operators.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph’s dial is a work of art, ruthenium-coated and host to a lovely hand-guilloche that radiates from the big date display. The rhodium-plated roman numeral markers are applied and match perfectly with the lumed hand set, which features a long minute hand promising strong legibility. The moonphase display is slightly recessed but adds a richness to the dial, with a deep blue and silver layout. As is common with moonphase complications, the display on the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph is impressively accurate to within one day in every 122 years (assuming you kept the movement running for that period of time).

With a twin register layout, the perpetual calendar display is complex but easily absorbed. The chronograph scale is represented in white on the outer perimeter of the subdials while, moving left to right, the am/pm, day, month, and leap year indicators reside within the subdials, with a distinct handset over a grey background. With first-rate finishing, the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph’s balanced dial design is a mix of traditional elements blended with red accents and asymmetrical sub dials.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

That complexity and fine finishing is perhaps even better understood when viewing the caliber 03.10-L through the wide sapphire display case back. The movement is rendered in nickel silver, which is known for being both beautiful and difficult to work with. The 03.10-L is based on Chopard’s 03.07-L hand-wound flyback chronograph movement, which is a stunning movement by any measure and one that we've seen used in their L.U.C 1963 Chronograph.

The COSC-certified 03.10-L operates at 4Hz with 42 jewels and a power reserve of 60 hours supporting a flyback column wheel 12-hour chronograph with a vertical clutch and the myriad functions of the perpetual calendar. Manufactured and hand-finished entirely in-house by Chopard, the L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph also passes the muster of the Poinçon de Genève (fully explained here), which now considers the watch in its entirety, rather than just the movement. This highly regarded hallmark is a tribute to the considerable quality of all aspects for the design and execution of the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Delivered on a hand-sewn alligator leather strap with a matching Fairmined 18k gold tang buckle at a list price of US$95,630, the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph is limited to just 20 pieces. While Chopard’s bread and butter is likely from more mass-produced pieces, I think watches like this remarkable perpetual chronograph represent a sometimes overlooked element within Chopard, a heart for haute horology that is the equal of anything in top tier watchmaking.

What do you think?
  • Thumbs up (2)
  • I want it! (1)
  • Classy (1)
  • I love it! (1)
  • Interesting (0)
  • iamcalledryan

    I love me a hand-wound perpetual flyback chrono! It’s interesting that LUC have decided to use such large bridges over the mechanism, I have grown accustomed to a more exposed view.

    As for the dial – lots of character! The moonphase is particularly attractive. The subdial-subdials are the equivalent of this:

  • DanW94

    For all it’s technical muscle and Geneva Seal level finishing, I just can’t get past the Mickey Mouse ear-like protuberances of the sub-dials.

    • srs144

      Funny, “Mickey Mouse” was the first thing that came to mind for me too

      • DanW94

        I actually don’t mind it to much – the problem is once you make that association you can’t unsee it.

  • needs more subdials

  • MEddie90

    Movement side is fantastic. Chopard have really been showing their chops of with the four barrel “quattro” system and an in-house chronograph. Definitely a manufacturer to keep on the radar and its nice to see they have gone off the beaten track a little with this movement providing a more contemporary manual wind that looks like its built to last forever.

    I must admit though the case seems a little dull and the dials are often not to my taste, the simpler models have a nice art deco aesthetic which works but this seems too crowded and the attempt to combine a dressier watch with sportier features such as the white raised registers just doesn’t do anything for me.

    On a side note too the “mickey mouse ears” are a bit of a blemish. two windows, one for AM/PM and one for leap-years would have been much more effective.

  • Marius

    Personally, I neither like this watch, nor understand its pricing structure. The dial has too many colours and too many different textures. The case, at 45mm and 15mm thickness, is simply too big. The movement is nice, but not nearly as attractive as a Lange or Patek. Finally, if you have around $100,000 to spend, why would you buy this watch when for a similar price you could get a much more elegant and refined Patek, Lange, or even a JLC Perpetual Tourbillon.

  • IanE

    Nice movement; shame the dial looks like a Citizen.

  • Boogur T. Wang

    Good review.
    I like what the watch makers are doing using this “sunburst” pattern – looks lovely.
    Very well made time piece.

  • Roman

    Chopard is one of my favorite brands and I would buy almost everything it makes. The only restrainer is their prices. I’m not a fan of chronographs because it’s useless for me. I have a stopwatch in my phone and I used it twice in the entire time. However I would buy L.U.C. Chronograph. It’s elegant, stylish and just beautiful from the front and from the back.

  • Shinytoys

    Another fine offering from Chopard. I do love that face and movement.

  • JP. Coqueran

    That thing is BEAUTIFUL!!!

  • Sevenmack

    Just plain gorgeous. The sunburst dial. The design of the moon phase subdial. The engraving work on the back of the movement. This Chopard is worth every one of the dollars it costs.

  • egznyc

    I agree with the Mickey Mouse commenters below. It kind of ruins the face for me. Why not put the 1-4 year indicator on the reverse? The day/night indicator could also be relocated.

    Did I miss it or is there no power reserve? That’d be useful on this beautiful beast.

  • funNactive

    I like the look of the watch at a glance. Usually I love triple dates, but the layout on this one leaves something to be desired (I don’t care for the design of the month function).