March 22, 2022
by Bilal Khan
New yet unmistakably familiar. That’s how I’d sum up the just-released H. Moser & Cie new Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green. The latest addition to Moser’s classic Endeavour collection, the new Lime Green dial color is presented in a “hammered” textured gold dial finished in Grand Feu enamel. This is Moser doing what it does best: presenting intricate and highly refined finishing techniques in a refreshingly clean, unpretentious, and largely unbranded way.
The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green looks simple, but it takes a few special dial techniques to achieve the finish. First, the gold plate that serves as the dial base is finished in an ingrained pattern that is reminiscent of a hammered dial. Note that while this lends a hammered appearance to the dial, Moser is not using the tremblage method seen on very few watches from Lange or this Moritz Grossmann. Those are silver dials and achieve a much more granular and almost dust-like finish, whereas this Moser has a softer gold dial and achieves an almost topographical finish. I believe this is the first textured dial using this technique Moser has done, and I like the softness of the finish, though, of course, it’s difficult to deliver a verdict based solely on press photos.
From here, an application of three pigments of green enamel is applied to the dial and heated 12 times. This creates the final Grand Feu enamel finish, as well as the signature Moser fumé dial. The Lime Green looks pretty punchy and vibrant, which is a direction that I think works well for Moser given recent releases like the Pioneer MEGA Cool. The use of a purple seconds hand underscores this point. I am glad Moser hasn’t abandoned the stark “concept dials” that feature no text at all for the (very, very cool) translucent logos we’ve seen from the brand in recent months. As with the more traditional fumé dial Endeavours, the dial is the star of the show here, and no branding is necessary.
As with other steel Endeavour Centre Seconds pieces, this model comes in a 40mm-wide case that measures 11.2mm-thick. From the exhibition caseback, you can see the in-house automatic HMC 200 calibre, which operates at 21,600 vph and has a 72-hour power reserve. Finished with double-crested Moser stripes and a Moser-hallmark rotor, the HMC 200 also has a Straumann double hairspring done at sister company Precision Engineering.
Moser is a brand known for making some of the most beautiful dials in the industry, so it was only natural that it would introduce enamel dials. Naturally, the presentation is distinctly Moser, and the Lime Green Grand Feu enamel is a beautiful addition to the brand’s lineup. Coming in a steel case with gray Kudu leather strap, the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green (Ref. 1200-1233) is priced at $27,600. You can learn more at h-moser.com.