Late last year, Doxa introduced its SUB 300β collection of watches, a slimmed-down evolution of the brand’s iconic SUB 300 dive watch. Aside from cutting a more svelte figure on the wrist, the new SUB 300 Beta series takes a restrained approach to Doxa’s typical punchy use of color, as well as introducing new materials in its construction. With the Doxa SUB 300β Sediqqi Edition watch, it’s the first time a Doxa SUB features a natural mother-of-pearl dial, and the deep blue hue is a fitting choice given the brand’s long-standing aquatic history.

Few watch brands are as integral to dive watch lore as Doxa, and with good reason. Early dive watches were largely the provenance of professional and military divers, sporting straightforward and conservative black-dialed designs. When Doxa unveiled the SUB 300 in 1967, however, it brought the purpose-built dive watch to recreational divers, for the first time, with panache. This vibrant energy came thanks to its then unheard-of bright orange dial and unconventional elongated case shape. Since reviving the SUB 300 watch in 2017 to celebrate its 50th anniversary, Doxa has given the same lively, bold dial treatment to subsequent releases. The result is a fun, offbeat diver with a strong dose of vintage nostalgia. But where the SUB 300 presents its colorful options with an adventurous, almost tropical air, the 300β strikes a more sophisticated tone in both style and form. Think less mai tai and more martini.

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At first glance, the Doxa SUB 300β Sediqqi Edition watch retains the core design elements of the SUB 300. This includes a broad, 42.5mm wide tonneau-shaped case in 316L stainless steel, a dual-scale unidirectional diving bezel, and a classic beads-of-rice-style bracelet. It’s retro Doxa, through and through. However, with a case height of 11.95mm, the SUB 300β sits noticeably lower on the wrist thanks to both a thinner bezel and the use of a flat sapphire crystal (as opposed to domed). The nearly 2mm reduction in thickness of the SUB 300β is a welcome refinement in terms of wearability, especially if you choose to pair the watch with a dress shirt for those more formal desk-diving expeditions. 

The undeniable star here is the mother-of-pearl dial. At certain angles, it presents as a dark, muted shade of blue, the kind you might see at depth while wearing the watch in its intended maritime environment. But the real magic happens when the light hits the watch, and an iridescent wave sweeps across the dial as it breaks toward the edge of the case. It’s a common visual effect with mother-of-pearl, but it’s especially striking when rendered in blue, and perfectly on theme for a dive watch such as this.

The Doxa SUB 300β Sediqqi Edition watch eschews the traditional stainless steel bezel of the SUB 300 for one constructed of black ceramic with a blue ceramic insert. This bezel design is unique to Doxa, with two scales running in tandem: The black inner scale tracks dive duration in minutes, while the outer white scale denotes depth in meters for gauging no-decompression dives. The hour markers and handset on the dial, as well as the small pip at 12 o’clock on the bezel, are coated with Super-LumiNova to ensure visibility underwater. As to be expected from Doxa, the SUB 300β is a thoroughly capable dive watch with 30 ATM (or 300 meters) of water resistance.

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Similar to the other watches in the SUB 300β lineup, the Doxa SUB 300β Sediqqi Edition watch is powered by a Sellita SW200-1 movement, a reliable workhorse that operates at 28,800 vph and offers approximately 38 hours of power reserve. As its name suggests, this watch was made to celebrate the decades-long partnership between Doxa and its prominent Middle Eastern retail partner, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. This is a limited-edition collaboration of 50 pieces and is exclusive to all Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons retail locations, so the only way you’ll be able to snag one of these watches is via a visit to the United Arab Emirates. With a dial like this, though, you might just be tempted to make the trip. The Doxa SUB 300β Sediqqi Edition watch comes with both a 316L stainless steel beads of rice bracelet and a white FKM rubber strap. Price is $3,200 USD. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.

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