June 28, 2009
by Ariel Adams
Ladoire is a new Swiss watch makers with an interesting timepiece called the RGT. That is supposed to stand for “Roller Guardian Time,” which makes no sense to me, but I will just smooth past that. The watch is unique as a regulator. I think maybe they missed the point of what a regulator watch is supposed to be, as the minute dial is really small, but that is OK. Interestingly enough, on this watch, the major dial along with the biggest hand is dedicated to a second timezone indicator (the GMT hand). If that watch reminds you of Hautlence and MCT watches, that is because they share some of the same engineering DNA.
OK, so lets move away from titles and description to focus on the interesting movement and design. There is nothing wholly unique about the watch except for the really nice design and interesting manner of displaying the time in the way that it is. The design of the watch to me look like Porsche Design on steroids. Does anyone else see that? To read the time you just need to follow the red arrows. The larger dial is for the minutes, then the smaller is for the seconds, while the smallest that has two arrows and no real dial is for the seconds. It is not the more precise ot easiest watch in the world to read, but it gets the job done, and the red arrows are pretty nifty looking. For whatever reason, the gear that the GMT hour hand is connected to on the while gold version has a little Spiderman-esque web on it. You can see it in both the images of the front and back of the watch. A nifty feature of the movement is a quick adjust for the GMT hand in both hour directions. The right side of the watch is like a paddle switch. You can adjust the second hour hand in one hour increments either ahead or behind – which is useful and nice to have.
One of the best features of Ladoire’s website is under the “Helvet Manufacture” tab, or you can just click here. It has an explosion of the movement, but more importantly it shows you were each part was made. All in Switzerland of course. The reason it is so interesting is because one, it really helps you appreciate how certain companies specialize in certain parts, and seconds, it really helps you understand the core elements of a movement. Plus, you can see how certain regions in Switzerland sometimes specialize in certain parts. For example, you see that the screws all come from the same area in Switzerland, and likely the same company. Ladoire themselves manufactures the movements at the Helvet Manufacture.
The movement (Calvet/01/RGT calibre) itself is made of a number of materials including titanium and platinum. The case is available in 18k white or rose gold being 56mm wide by 45mm tall, and just over 16mm thick. The alligator strap connected to it is of the more impressive I’ve seen. You can see how it is extra thick near the case of the watch. this helps it conform best to shape of your wrist so that the watch fits snugly. I’ve never seen this done with an alligator strap before. The nooks and crannies of the movement are nice to observe, and the best part of the complex movement is that it is an automatic with a micro rotor. This is one of the few ulta exclusive manufacture watches that is suitable for a showcase, along with daily wear (if you dare!). More information is available at Ladoire’s website.