The Tangente is arguably the single most famous NOMOS model, and when most people think of NOMOS as a brand, it is likely some version of the Tangente that first comes to mind. The Tangente was among the first NOMOS watches launched in the early 1990s, and it was easily the model that became the most popular and would go on to lend its core design to subsequent NOMOS collections such as the Tangomat and Ahoi. As its latest new release of 2023, NOMOS has created a luxurious limited-edition version of its original fan-favorite model, and the new NOMOS Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte features a solid rose gold case and celebrates the rich history of Germany’s horological capital.
The new NOMOS Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte (ref.160.S1) is based on the design of the classic time-only model from the collection, and it represents the first time that a Tangente watch has been available with a rose gold case. Similar to other current-production versions of the NOMOS Tangente Neomatik, the case of the new 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte edition measures 35mm in diameter by 6.9mm thick, with 18mm lugs and an overall lug-to-lug profile of 43mm. However, rather than being stainless steel like its standard-production siblings, the case of the new NOMOS Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is crafted from solid 18k rose gold and fitted with a matching rose gold winding crown.
With that in mind, the rest of the new NOMOS Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte offers much of the same overall package that has made the classic Tangente a success for decades, and it features thin angular lugs (with drilled holes), a flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on the underside surface, 30 meters of water resistance, and a display-style caseback that offers a view of the self-winding movement that powers the watch. Engraved along the perimeter of the caseback are the model’s limited-edition markings, along with each watch’s individual number out of the total batch of 175 examples. Lastly, fitted to the 18mm lugs of the new rose Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is a dark brown two-piece strap that is made from Horween shell cordovan leather and fitted with a matching rose gold pin buckle.
The dial fitted to the new NOMOS Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte offers the same overall design and layout that defines the rest of the collection, with a thin pair of centrally-mounted hands for the hours and minutes, along with a sub-dial at 6 o’clock that contains the running seconds hand. Just like the original Tangente model, the dial fitted to the new 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte edition is galvanically white silver-plated, although it gets paired with rose gold hands, along with contrasting rose gold sections for its sub-seconds register and minute track. Similarly, while the dial text and Bauhaus-font hour markers all are printed in a deep brown color, the “Neomatik” branding on the dial appears in gold to better complement the warm rose gold accents that are present throughout the rest of the hands and dial on the watch.
Powering the new NOMOS Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte is the brand’s in-house Caliber DUW 3001 automatic movement, which runs at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 43 hours. Designed and manufactured in-house by NOMOS, the 27-jewel Cal. DUW 3001 measures just 3.2mm thick, and it features the brand’s proprietary Swing System escapement, which allows it to be adjusted according to chronometer standards. Based upon the classic Glashütte-style architecture of a three-quarter plate and fitted with a bidirectional winding automatic system, the NOMOS Cal. DUW 3001 is decorated with blued screws and rhodium-plated surfaces that showcase perlage, ribbing, and gold-filled engravings for the various markings on the rotor and bridges.
NOMOS is a brand that is typically praised for offering high-quality timepieces at fairly attainable prices, although any time that a watch features a solid gold case, you can virtually guarantee that it will be quite a bit more expensive than its stainless steel siblings. While the standard versions of the Tangente Neomatik typically cost a few thousand dollars, the new NOMOS Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte has an official retail price of $11,100 USD, and it will be produced as a limited edition of just 175 examples. At roughly three times the cost of its stainless steel counterparts, this new anniversary model is clearly intended to be a premium offering, although this price point also doesn’t seem all that outrageous for a high-quality German timepiece with a solid 18k rose gold case and an in-house movement. While a time-only watch at a five-figure price is hardly a budget-friendly proposition, I personally feel that you can spend this same amount elsewhere within the industry and get far less for your money. For more information on the NOMOS Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte, please visit the brand’s website.