Panerai has been closely associated with the military, especially the navies of the world, since its inception. While the battlefields have changed dramatically, the spirit that drives those who fight remains unwavering. Panerai’s Navy SEALs collection is dedicated to some of the bravest and most elite troops on the modern battlefield, and the brand’s decades-long naval legacy makes it well-suited to the task.
For 2023, Panerai has unveiled five (technically four) new watches to join this special collection of elite limited watches. For the first time, this collection will be available worldwide but only at boutiques. Without further ado, let’s dive into (pun intended) the new Panerai Navy SEALs collection.
Panerai Luminor Marina Navy SEALs PAM01412
Kicking off the collection is the Panerai Luminar Marina Navy SEALs PAM01412. Clocking in at 44mm in diameter the familiar iconic dive watch has received a brunito — or burnished — case finishing. The stainless steel cases receive a PVD coating and are burnished by hand to have a unique battle-worn look. Given the nature of this finishing, no two cases are identical. A textured black-to-gray gradient sandwich dial reveals pale green luminous material beneath (also featured in the matte black painted hands) and a matching green rubberized crown protected by the signature crown guard. A black date wheel is found at 3 o’clock, and the running seconds — highlighted with vibrant yellow-orange, is found at the classic 9 o’clock position. This black and gray color scheme with green and/or orange accent colors carries through the remainder of the collection.
Powering the new Navy SEALs Luminor PAM01412 is the automatic P9010 calibre. This in-house movement provides 3 days of power reserve running at 28,800vph. Fitted to a rubber strap, and coming with an additional “bi-material” strap, the Panerai Navy SEALs Luminor PAM01412 is rated to 300 meters of water resistance. The new watches are priced at $9,800 USD and are limited to 862 pieces worldwide.
Panerai Submersible BiTempo GMT PAM 01323
Relaunching with the new collection is an existing model, originally released in 2022 and bound to be popular still: the Panerai Submersible BiTempo(GMT) Navy SEALs PAM01323. It’s no secret the Diver GMT is still a hot commodity at any price point and this 44mm wide, anthracite gradient-dialed tool watch has all the hallmark characteristics one could ask for from Panerai. It is powered by the dual time P.900/GMT calibre with 3 days of power reserve and rated to 300 meters of water resistance. Notably, this steel case is purely satin, unlike the burnished treatment the rest of the steel collection received. This re-release is limited to 500 pieces and 62 are reserved for active and retired Navy SEALs at a special price, while he standard retail price will be $10,600 USD.
Panerai Luminor Chronograph Navy SEALs in Steel(PAM01409) And Carbotech(PAM01419)
The Panerai Luminor Chronograph gets two limited-edition Navy SEALs flavors for 2023. The first is the PAM01409 in a 44mm brushed Brunito steel case echoing the same design language as the aforementioned Luminor PAM01412. The second Luminor Chrono, the PAM01419, is rendered in Panerai’s proprietary CarboTech case. The result is a slimmer overall feel and appearance thanks to the dark, lightweight, swirling carbon fiber composite case. Much like the burnished steel cases, no two CarboTech cases are identical thanks to the carbon fiber polymer compression and binding process used to create them. Both Luminor Chrono Navy SEALs watches are powered by the automatic P.9200 calibre (we took a look at the movement here) with a rather weak power reserve of only 42 hours. However, 100 meters of water resistance is appreciated and acceptable.
Target and crosshair motifs decorate the stepped subdials with matching yellow-orange accents for the chronograph functions. The dial is framed by a black tachymeter scale on the chapter ring and a fully graduated minutes track. Despite the overall dark color scheme, these watches look to maintain legibility at a glance without any overtly distracting elements. The Brunito steel PAM01409 is priced at $11,000 USD and limited to 562 pieces, while the CarboTech PAM01419 comes at a premium — $17,900 USD and — is limited to 462 pieces.
Panerai Experience Edition: Submersible Flyback Chronograph Navy SEALs PAM01402
Panerai is well-known for its over-the-top bold Italian style, sparing no expense to celebrate heritage and bring select customers on special trips. This collection is no different. It’s time to drop your Crocs and suit up in tactical gear for the Submersible Chrono Navy SEALs Experience Edition. Reference PAM1402 is a limited edition of 50 pieces that includes what the brand calls an immersive thematic Special Operations Experience. This trip includes “a series of tactical exercises, all designed to challenge participants physically and mentally, encouraging them to push themselves to their limits and beyond.” If you aren’t dragging your feet by the end of the trip, the extra goodies included will have you lugging swag home in the form of new artwork, training certifications, NFTs, and a new Panerai box.
While the experience is impressive, the watch purchase required to attend looks up to the task. The Panerai Submersible Chrono Navy SEALs PAM01402 features a 47mm brushed brunito steel case, titanium and ceramic uni-directional elapse time bezel, and the 328 component P.9100/R automatic flyback chronograph movement. This 9.55mm thick movement features two barrels and operates at 28,800vph, yielding a three-day power reserve.
OD green takes center stage on the PAM01402 from strap to bezel, and what looks like 3-dimensional applied luminous markers in initial images. Chronograph functions are once again highlighted in yellow in addition to a special “Time to Target” timer found on the perimeter of the dial. Thanks to the screw-down pushers, rubberized crown, and robust crown guard, the Experience Edition: Submersible Chrono Navy SEALs is water resistant to 300 meters of depth. This special edition is limited to 50 pieces and priced at a hefty $61,700 USD.
This new Panerai collection proudly displays the Navy SEALs title above the 6 o’clock position on each watch, and the Navy SEAL Trident insignia engraved on the caseback. Each of the watches exhibits a solid caseback of stainless steel except for the Carbotech-cased Luminor Chrono PAM01419, which maintains its lightweight design with a titanium caseback.
There is something to be said about a cohesive collection of watches. The past few years have been a mix of vintage reissues, limited editions, and nearly every color of the rainbow — sometimes all at once. An entire collection of watches with the same message spread across various price points provides buyers with an opportunity to experience something that otherwise may be out of reach. The Panerai Navy SEALs 2023 collection is bold, aggressive, and relatively timeless, a line few brands can tread easily so well. While there is always room for improvement from accuracy to power reserve, water resistance, and even pricing, this collection checks a lot of boxes. The subtle nods to the SEALs on the dial, not-so-subtle nods on the caseback, and even the limited-edition numbers (mostly) representing the SEALs’ founding year of 1962 are all details to be appreciated. You can learn more about the new collection on Panerai’s website.