Last year, Ulysse Nardin launched two Freak OPS watches (OPS being short for “operations”) that were characterized by their tactical-themed black and khaki green colorways, and now for its latest release of 2024, the Swiss manufacturer has introduced two new dive watches that both embrace the popular OPS concept. Formally known as the Diver NET OPS and the Diver X Skeleton OPS, the two new models expand upon the core blueprints of existing watches within Ulysse Nardin’s Diver collection by bringing the inherently utilitarian OPS colorway to the brand’s most rugged and performance-oriented collection of timepieces.
In the same way that the Freak ONE OPS is the flagship model and the Freak X OPS is the more affordable offering that costs roughly half the price of its sibling, the new Ulysse Nardin Diver OPS watches exist in two variations, with the Diver X Skeleton OPS being the premium version, while the Diver NET OPS is the more attainable model. Additionally, similar to how the Freak ONE is fundamentally different than the Freak X, the Diver X Skeleton is a significantly different timepiece compared to its Diver NET sibling, and it is the structural and functional differences between these models that are responsible for the large separation in their prices, rather than one version just being a luxury-oriented rendition of the same design.
The first of the two new models is the Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS, which is based on the core blueprint of the standard Diver NET model from 2020 that has served as the foundation for other watches such as the Diver The Ocean Race that was launched as a limited edition in 2022. Similar to previous models, the case of the Diver NET OPS features a layered construction, where a stainless steel central section (manufactured from 95% recycled material) is surrounded by an outer shell made from a proprietary composite material that consists of 60% Nylo (a polyamide formed from upcycled fishing nets) and 40% Carbonium (a forged carbon material that uses the waste produced by the aircraft manufacturing industry).
The case of the Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS measures 44mm in diameter by 14.81mm thick, and protecting the dial is a domed sapphire crystal, which is surrounded by a unidirectional timing bezel with a concave insert made from Carbonium. A screw-on display caseback closes up the reverse side of the watch, while a signed crown sits between two khaki green rubberized guards at the 3 o’clock location, and just as you would expect from a dive watch, the crown it screws down to the middle case to help create an ample 300 meters of water resistance.
The dial of the Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS follows in the footsteps of existing models from the series, and it features a khaki green sandblasted surface with a large embossed X running through the center that has been given a satin brushed finish. A power reserve indicator sits below the 12 o’clock marker on the upper half of the display, while a sub-dial tracks the running seconds at the 6 o’clock location, and to further lean into its tactical-inspired colorway, the hands and hour markers on the Diver NET OPS are finished with beige Super-LumiNova that emits a green-colored glow in the dark.
Powering the Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS is the brand’s 50-jewel manufacture Caliber UN-118 automatic movement, which runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Along with featuring a silicon balance spring, the Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-118 has its anchor and escape wheel crafted from DiamonSil, which is a proprietary diamond-coated silicon material that offers incredibly high levels of precision and durability. Lastly, the Diver NET OPS is available with either a khaki green rubber strap in the form of the ref. 1183-170-8A/3A, or with a two-piece fabric strap partially made from recycled fishing nets as the ref. 1183-170-8A/0A.
The other new model from the series is the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton OPS, essentially the tactical-themed version of the brand’s Diver X Skeleton Azure we reviewed last year. What this means is that you get a DLC-coated titanium case that measures 44mm in diameter by 15.7mm thick, and just like previous executions, the top of the case is furnished by a domed sapphire crystal and a unidirectional rotating timing bezel that has a concave Carbonium insert. Just like the Diver NET OPS, the Diver X Skeleton OPS features a screw-on display caseback with a signed screw-down crown located between two khaki green rubberized guards at 3 o’clock; however, water resistance is less than its sibling at 200 meters, which should still be more than adequate to survive all forms of moisture contact.
Just like other Diver X Skeleton models, the new Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton OPS features an open-worked display with a large X-shaped dial structure running through its center. Finished with brushed and polished surfaces, the dial features a black PVD coating, along with khaki green accents to play into the colorway of the watch. To echo the appearance of its Carbonium bezel insert, the carbon fiber-based material is also used for the barrel cover which sits visible through the open-worked dial at the 12 o’clock location, and just like the Diver NET OPS model, beige Super-LumiNova is applied to the dial and hands to provide them with a green-colored glow and improve their low-light visibility.
Powering the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton OPS is the manufacture 23-jewel Caliber UN-372 automatic, which runs at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Silicon is used for the oversized oscillator, balance spring, anchor, and escapement wheel, and this intricate assembly is showcased opposite the Carbonium barrel cover through the open-worked dial on the lower half of the display. Lastly, just like the Diver NET OPS model, the new Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton OPS is available in two different configurations as the ref. 3723-170-2C/3A with a rubber strap, or as the ref. 3723-170-2C/0A, which features a khaki green fabric strap made using recycled fishing nets.
While I personally prefer the Freak OPS watches due to the thematic contrast they offer with their highly technical designs and tactical colorways, the Diver series is Ulysse Nardin’s most function-forward series of watches, and the OPS color palette is a natural fit for the collection. Additionally, since the brand’s Diver models are inherently less complex than their various Freak counterparts, both new models are less expensive than previous OPS series offerings, with the Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS priced at $13,300 USD, while the Diver X Skeleton OPS comes in at $27,500 USD. As both models are variations of existing watches, they are priced right in line with similar offerings from the brand’s collection, although their signature OPS colorways make them some of Ulysse Nardin’s most utilitarian offerings. For more information on the Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS watches, please visit the brand’s website.