March 17, 2016
Building upon the well-received 110 and 111 calibers, Baselworld 2016 sees Oris unveiling a third aimed at time-zone hoppers by adding a GMT function to their newest in-house movement, their Calibre 112. It’s debuting in the Oris Artelier, which is a progression from the sporty Big Crown Pro Pilot and swings back to the dressier side of life. This third iteration follows Oris’ dedication to incorporating their in-house movements across their collections.
The hand-wound Caliber 112 preserves Oris’ magnificent 10-day power reserve and beats at 21,600vph, or 3Hz. This long power reserve is accomplished with an impressive single barrel. Oris is dedicated to providing high-quality movements and the 112 is another step in the right direction. The Oris Artelier could almost be considered a “tool-dress watch” if there were such a thing. Frequent travelers will appreciate the utility of the dial and particularly the power reserve indicator. Perhaps, Oris will place these new calibers into some of their divers in the near future.
The subdial at 12 houses the GMT function with an interesting day/night indication. With the two-tone rotating disc underneath the dial, the moon appears white in the evening, and the sun goes dark. The reverse is true in the morning, but at sunset both the sun and the moon are a mix of both colors. This is something I have never seen in a day/night complication, and I appreciate the use of toning to distinguish between the two. The dial at 3 o’clock features Oris’ patented non-linear power reserve indicator. It is unique in that the lower the reserve the higher the detail of the indicator to help you remember to wind your watch. With a small seconds, the dial is busy but maintains legibility and functionality.
The 43mm case will come in either stainless steel or a stainless steel variant topped off with an 18-carat rose gold bezel. The stainless steel version is equipped with either a deep blue-gray dial or a shimmering opaline version, while the rose gold accented case is paired only with the latter. The indices are applied, and the hands are a shiny, hand-polished nickel that is coated with Super-LumiNova. The crystal is sapphire treated for anti-reflectivity, and there is a sapphire case back allowing a peek under the hood at the in-house movement.
The Oris Artelier Calibre 112 stainless steel model comes with either a swanky, black Louisiana croco leather strap or a more reserved steel bracelet. The 18-carat rose gold-bezeled version comes on only on the leather strap but adds the option of a smooth, dark brown one. Prices are 6,300 CHF for the steel version and 7,800 CHF for the rose gold-bezeled version. oris.ch