Consider this the Year of the Radiomir. For Panerai, at least. At Watches and Wonders 2023, the brand is drastically expanding its sleeker model’s variants with new sizes, new dials, and new complications. The biggest standout, though, is a pair of new models that introduce a first across the entire brand: the Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendars. The brand has previously released a perpetual calendar, but this marks its first foray into the cleaner, usually more affordable annual calendar complication. But don’t be fooled: Panerai hasn’t created any run-of-the-mill watches to introduce its new caliber with the Radiomir Annual Calendars only available in platinum and gold—and one of them comes with a trip to Rome.

The cases here are the classic Radiomir design. The fully polished cushion cases measure 45mm in diameter and feature the wire lugs of the original 3646 that was made in the early 1940s for the Italian Royal Navy. The PAM1432 comes in a case made of Platinumtech™, Panerai’s proprietary 950 platinum alloy that’s harder and more resistant to scratches than other platinum, while also maintaining its deep metallic hue. The PAM1363 is offered in the same case rendered in Panerai’s Goldtech™, an 18k rose gold alloy with copper and a dash of platinum, which provides added durability and a slightly deeper shade than traditional rose gold. The watches feature a 3 o’clock conical pilot-style crown that sets the time of course, but also sets the month and date; the day is set with a corrector set into the case at 8 o’clock. Both models are paired with 27mm black alligator straps with buckles matched to the cases.

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The magic here is all in the dials. They’re immediately familiar as Panerais, with the sandwich cutout indices, classic rounded 12 and 6 numerals, and the 9 o’clock subdial with its distinctive hand seconds hand. The PAM1363 features a gradient sunburst dial shift from blue to black, while the PAM1432 offers the same dial in red. The 6 o’clock dial text tells you all you need to know (if you speak Italian): this is an annual calendar, done with the refined simplicity you’d expect from the brand. If you’re familiar with Panerai’s Luminor perpetual calendar, this dial is almost identical, with the day (in Italian) and date at 3 o’clock. The annual calendars forgo the day/night indicator and the GMT hand of the perpetual calendar but employ a rather novel system for indicating the month. Using a peripheral rotating ring linked to a cam, the date is indicated by a fixed pointer at 3 o’clock. This keeps the dial clear of unnecessary clutter and maintains the pared-down aesthetic people have come to expect from the brand. The dials and hands are treated with Super-LumiNova, and although the Old Radium color on the gold PAM1363 may turn people off, I think matching it to the gold case really ties it together.

To power the Annual Calendars, the brand used the framework of its existing in-house P.9010 to create the P.9010/AC annual calendar movement. Nothing too fancy, but still an exciting addition to the brand’s stable. The P.1090/AC is on display through a sapphire caseback crystals. The caliber runs at 28,800 vph with 40 jewels and double mainspring barrels providing an impressive three days of power. This movement was reportedly built specifically for the Radiomir collection, and it’s hard to see how it could be scaled down to a smaller case. That said, there’s no reason this couldn’t be ported into the Luminor.

These watches keep the Panerai promise—big cases with trademark design—and add a new twist with a brand-new movement and complication. To add to the appeal of these new models, buyers of the Platinumtech™ PAM1432 will be treated to a trip to Rome (which is built into the price). Italy, for what the brand describes as an immersive experience that will expose participants to “the essence of the brand through events that combine artisanal know-how, culture and tours of historical sites.” Whether you buy or not, go to Rome or not, I think the exciting thing here is how the brand will use the movement next—maybe a Luminor or a non-precious Radiomir? The Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM1432 in Platinumtech™ is priced at $88,100 USD and the PAM1363 in Goldtech™ is priced at $39,200 USD. Both are available exclusively at Panerai boutiques but are not limited. For more information please visit the brand’s website.

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