Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Why, I mean oh why do high-end luxury watches have reflective crystals? That is a question we might never know the definitive answer to, and the Patek Philippe 5170P-001 certainly doesn't help fix the issue; but otherwise it's quite the watch, so let us give it a closer look.

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On Hands-On
All images by David Bredan

As I was reviewing my images of this otherwise quite splendid looking fella, I could feel anger and frustration sneaking up on me. It was like seeing the Mona Lisa re-sketched with an extensive cleavage, or Munch's The Scream turned into an emoji. What I could see was something painstakingly thought out and executed to the finest detail, and then ruined just to impress the constantly distracted modern onlooker.

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On Hands-On

My only theory for the existence of reflective crystals, like the one on the Patek Philippe 5170P-001, is that it's chosen because it looks more impressive and expensive to the untrained eye – and the expansive boom the watch industry experienced over the last two decades sure brought along masses of untrained customers who, by nature, flocked to the well-known prestige brands. I mean, picture the following scenario.

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On Hands-On

A client, as the industry inexplicably likes to call him, walks into a boutique, asking for "something flashy – but not tasteless... I learned from last time." Seating and a glass of bubbly is offered and moments later he has the boutique's staff hand one of these beauties over with their white gloved hands – for their lowly human skin is not allowed to touch such precious materials like almost-pure platinum, or sapphire. As the spot lamps shine down upon this setting like stars in the sky, the watch reflects light back at the to-be customer, blinding his eyes, keeping them from focusing on the ever-so-small price tag tucked away neatly on the inside of the strap.

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On Hands-On

His eyes, tired from witnessing the plebs go about their lives as he rolls past them in his tinted Maybach, do their absolute best to glance behind the curved and proudly non-AR-coated crystal, desperately hunting for the feast they could sense is awaiting. Their efforts yield great rewards: nine massive, baguette-cut diamonds sparkle back at them – "in the vicinity of a fifth of a carat," his trained nouveau riche vision makes him whisper and the staff almost claps in appreciation. They are approximately 0.23ct.

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On Hands-On

As a viewing angle is found where the entire ceiling and the rest of the store is not reflected back at the client, a dial in a vibrant, yet noble shade of blue starts to show itself, set alight by a subtle sunburst finish. No deep grooves or any of that rubbish, just the lightest touch on the surface. Moments later, it becomes apparent, the 5170P is not about the dial color, but about those splendid baguette diamonds – which, to be fair, put up an honorable fight against the reflections as they too scatter light in a million ways.

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Diamond markers function as a divisive power among watch enthusiasts. Those with a more faint confidence in their taste (or something else, maybe?) actively seek the chance to overreact and, as such, consider even the suggestion of diamond markers to be a personal attack. They wish to voice their uber-conservative taste whenever possible for it is their trusty safe-place where, cosied up against the soft walls of watch taste conservatism, they are free from making a wrong call.

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Many more even refrain from diamonds on an otherwise conservative-friendly Patek Philippe chronograph like the 5170 – a far lass offensive design move, I'd say, than the manufacture's recent foray into pilot watches. On a positive note, others do like diamond hour markers and (shame on me?) I belong to this bunch of horological outcasts. If we are honest, any watch that costs over, say, $1,000 is in one way or another an excessive, luxurious trait – and with that in mind (and especially when you're spending well into five figures), diamond hour markers sound more natural than ever.

Patek Philippe 5170P-001 In Platinum With Diamonds Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The 39.4mm-wide platinum case may just be 10.9mm thick – the Patek Philippe 5170P gets proportions right – but it still has considerable heft to it. As the "P" in the reference number and the weight over the wrist indicate, this 5170 is crafted in the heaviest of precious luxury watch materials. This, in a Patek Philippe, further entails a little diamond set in between the lower lugs of the timepiece, nothing more than a reminder that you demand nothing but the best – and/or most expensive – the world has to offer.

What do you think?
  • I want it! (51)
  • Thumbs up (19)
  • Interesting (14)
  • Classy (14)
  • I love it! (14)
  • Bozzor

    A great watch in so many ways, but somehow I feel the diamonds are just a cynical addition to justify extra margin, without any true design integrity. It just doesn’t seem to fir in with the Patek Phillipe ethos of perfection, style and restraint.

    • Sheez Gagoo

      They look like broken teeth.

  • IG

    Actually I think it’s quite clever how they shaped the diamonds as the luminova or applied metal markers would be. And of course a nice hand-wound movement.

    • Yeah, I was thinking they should do a joint venture with Ball and have GST behind the diamonds. Best of both worlds and just as tasteless as you would expect. What’s not to like?

        • David Bredan

          That’s really cool, Mark! When we were looking at these markers, and especially the macro shots of it, we too thought these totally should light up in the dark! And in some way do;)

          • The “photoshopping” is an example of the silly stuff I sometimes do at 0200. I actually fired up CorelDraw and drew the makers with a drop-shadow for the glow as vector art and then exported back to a JPG. Too much work really for a silly idea but it does improve the quality. I stopped and did not do any gas tubes on the hands. So the diamonds catch the light even when there is little of it? That’s good to know, but this (or more to my tastes the Nautilus) is out my price range. Aloha.

          • IG

            Using CorelDraw at 2am is borderline masochism.

          • After 20 years and many, many versions of it, it’s second nature to use – even that late at night.

  • IanE

    ‘ I’d go so far as to say it’s a must have in every collector’s career ‘ – well, I can’t be counted as a collector then! Not that I don’t love it (although the Datograph of course has a much more attractive movement!); not, indeed, that I don’t want it; no, it’s just the banal money issue.

  • Dénes Albert

    There are precious (pun intended) few watches in this price range that I would actually buy even if I had the $$, but this definitely is one such watch. Probably just behind the Badollet Ivresse.

    • Berndt Norten

      Bateau ivre?

  • Marius

    Patek Philippe has always been one of my favourite brands thanks to their rich history & heritage. Watches such as the 3940 perpetual calendar, or the Calatrava 2526 are great examples for Patek`s timeless, and very elegant and characterful style. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/3097c8150a18f1a8280e7523a41092eaf9850471b779d84df87b863094411db8.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/ab946ebd6a9ef81d08c063e3be89af7ca837b84d640eebfb8a3d3e95415f838c.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/29892026e8faa2316bc4324969135fe780332f07bfaf6847670748a3de0c0f59.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/1f43ca73baffa2dcc92e516712befbe1398a585d7dd4dc76184892213dc01960.jpg
    Nevertheless, most modern Pateks are in my view a bit soulless, and this chronograph is a great ilsustration for that.

    Aesthetically, this watch has a very correct design. The case & lugs are well-proportioned, and the dial is elegant and very legible. Yet, for me, something is missing. In my eyes, this watch lacks character and soul, and if you replaced the Patek Philippe signature with Frederique Constant or other such brands nobody would notice the difference. By comparison, a Lange Datograph is a much more characterful watch. Sure, its design might be a but idiosyncratic, but overall, it has much more personality and style than this rather bland and sterile Patek.

    The movement is certainly interesring, very elegant, and nicely-finished. What I particularly like is its quintessential Genevoise architecture and style. However, considering the price asked, I find the overall finish & decoration to be slightly timid. In fact, Gary G from Quill&Pad recently published an article about his Patek Split-Seconds Chronograph, and he offers a more detailed explanation on why the decoration of this caliber is certainly good, but not stellar.

    Lastly, at over 85,000 Nigerian Pesos, I can’t say that I’m terribly impressed by this Patek. At this price, my favourite chronograph would clearly be the Lange Datograph. However, if you really like two-register chronigraphs, then I would recommend two stellar chronographs: the Lange 1815 Chronograph, and the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle Chrono. The good news is that both can be purchased for around $52,000, which means that you can spend the remaining $32,000 on a brand-new Lange 1. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/210a18b742b7ce6e5a4101276746a8d36352bd6cc2be6d667fbddafcdbd090b7.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/e13bf3a6fd86fd09e7e5c7b0f6f477c13beddbeb43f237ef91ddc2cfb586972a.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/2d8603ca0e1be0855b710186dd8f316dd046900356c26f57daceb6d50f852c01.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/ba78bb43edd454ce019a88ffe343b8ba47f25344a9a65eda8b251037dbeaef19.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/bbd711abca90dfadc9768b941d1b0a9d42462abfc7a276dcc595f09712d67282.jpg

  • Traveler

    Enjoyed this review a lot – nice one. The watch I’m 50/50 – I think I should hate it but I’m really drawn to it. I also think it’s much more appropriate than a Patek ‘pilot’s watch’…

    • David Bredan

      Thank you and thanks for sharing.

  • Raymond Wilkie

    PP,…………….big whoop, wanna fight about it ?
    Ok , it’s a fine looking piece but diamonds are fine if your Liberace.

    • IanE

      I don’t mind them myself, but they just don’t seem to add anything over finely shaped steel (or white gold) hour markers.

      • Raymond Wilkie

        Those two examples would have been just fine. Using diamonds is not only completely unnecessary but just inflates the price to ridiculous levels. Far to ostentatious looking for my palate.

        • Mark1884

          I think PP used the diamonds to “spice up” what might look like a plain dial to some. The diamonds give a hint or clue, that you are looking at something special. The clue to “stealth wealth” so to say.
          I have a diamond dial on one of my watches. It is subtle and tastefully done. Diamonds are tricky, they can look classy or hip hop.

  • I guess I understand the nostalgic appeal of a horizontal clutch (but I will would prefer a vertical one) and its visual appeal (vertical ones are nothing special to look at). But lack of A/R has zero nostalgic appeal – so shame on Stern & Co for all of the glare on the crystal.

    I’m not opposed to a few diamonds – certainly better than the Jacob & Co Billionaire watch https://www.ablogtowatch.com/wearing-18000000-jacob-co-billionaire-watch/
    and I think the Nautilus with similar diamond hour makers is fine for those you must have diamonds and, as you out it David, “have learned their lesson”, ha ha. https://www.ablogtowatch.com/patek-philippe-nautilus-40th-anniversary-5711-1p-platinum-watch/

  • Sheez Gagoo

    In recent times Patek seemes to kick customers towards Glashütte.

  • Sheez Gagoo

    “My only theory for the existence of reflective crystals, like the one on the Patek Philippe 5170P-001, is that it’s chosen because it looks more impressive and expensive to the untrained eye”
    Are these the customers Patek is trying to get?. As an untrained I would expect the best, that’s what Patek stood for. Let the trained add some pressure to the brand so the untrained still know,they get the best. When Patek tries to become a plebbrand, not even Rappers will buy them anymore.

  • Framlucasse

    I must say this PP leaves me stone cold. Give me a 1815 chrono instead of that.

  • ProJ

    A lume shot would’ve been helpful in this article me thinks

    • David Bredan

      It’s only a matter of time for someone to put glow-in-the-dark diamonds on a watch. Wish these could light up!

      • ProJ

        So the lumed hands don’t deserve a lume shot?

        • David Bredan

          In a review, by all means! In a hands-on I’d say not unless it’s genuinely interesting — and I trust we have all seen two stripes of lume over a dark dial 🙂

          • ProJ

            Fair enough. Thanks!

  • frauss

    It’s a breath of fresh air for one of your writers to lambast PP for its shiny crystal. Not like today’s chirpy reviews of almost every other watch. Makes me nostalgic for the early ABlogtoRead…

  • Yan Fin

    Nice article David! At some point it was close to Communist Party Manifesto. “Munch’s The Scream turned into an emoji” is pure gold, or, in this case, platinum.

    • David Bredan

      Haha, thank you!!

  • Mark1884

    PP is in the top tier of my favorite watches. I find this offering interesting with subtle hints of stealth wealth. While I agree with David on the AR issue, I do not think it was worth virtually the whole first page of the review. Yes, most of the watch pic’s were not good. I am surprised that it was that difficult to get quality shots without the horrible reflections. I would love to have a crack at shooting this one myself. The fact that PP is not the go to watch for rappers or sports stars is a big plus in my book. As stated below, the review was critical of this PP. I guess for the asking price, you should expect more and I get that. The review (to me) did sound mocking of PP and seemed to poke fun at it and it’s buyers.
    Honest critical reviews are a breath of fresh air and appreciated. I do feel some of the “watches” reviewed here get a pass on criticism or honest comment.

    • Sheez Gagoo
      • Mark1884

        I guess even PP is not imune…..

        Too bad.

        • Sheez Gagoo

          No diggity.

    • David Bredan

      Not all of us have the same opinion on the same watches – we just started discussing ideas on how to allow more than 1 writer to do a hands-on on the same watch if he/she feels inclined to share his take on it. Like an editorial of sorts, not a second hands-on.
      As for photography, feel free to google 5170P-001 to see other images. You’ll find little to no reflections in two instances: 1) the source of the light is at a very steep angle to the watch, leaving the dial much too dark (like this: https://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s480x480/e35/18381727_340084429743107_5578985736650096640_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTUxMDQ4MzEwMDMwNzgzMzcwNA%3D%3D.2 , where the watch clearly is tilted away from the light source reflected in the lower right of the bezel) and 2) when the watch is at a steep angle to the camera, like here: https://www.deployant.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/patek-5170p-wrist.jpg
      When a brighter spot (the sky or light sources above you or behind you) meet directly the dial and you’re looking at the watch at any but the steepest angle, it’s tons of reflections. There might have been some fun-poking in there, but you didn’t say it was undeserved.

      • Mark1884

        Hello David, thanks for writing back.
        An editorial – I get it! The problem of reflections while photographing watches can be a real pain in the rear end. Using soft filters and lighting angles can be tricky to get a really good shot.
        Have a fine day!

        • One can reduce reflections significantly by using a circular polarizer. Use polarised light and you can eliminate reflections completely. It would not be representative of the watch however.

          • David Bredan

            I was going to say every image I take and share here involves a lot of time/effort/practice to make the watch look good and realistic on images, but I can’t help an excessively reflective crystal and other issues.
            Personally, I never understood the no AR on the outside either for I’ve never ever had a watch with a scratched crystal front (knock on wood), and I am not exactly babying the watches I consider daily/regular wearers.

          • Sheez Gagoo

            I had a Constellation with a worn of AR-coating. Looked ugly as hell. Sold it imediately. I bought it because it was a very, very good deal but Constellations and I never became friends. Worn of AR is a real issue.

          • Ariel Adams

            I want to echo what you are saying here, because I think it is a very important point. It is correct that we can use a series of tools such as polarizers and lighting tricks to take images of a crystal without glare. With that said, it is only trick to mask what the watch looks like in real life. Trust us when we say that we have to throw out at least 30% of the images we ever take because the glare crystals/dials is so bad. We do a lot of the hard work the brands should be doing in order to present timepieces in a manner that is as attractive as possible. With that said, we sometimes just want to say “this is exactly what the watch looks like in person. I am not going to hide the glare, that is the brand’s job.”

    • Richard Baptist

      I’m a big fan at poking fun at PP. If you like the watch get it, whether sports stars or rappers wear them should not enter into your equation. BTW Pras of the Fugees has some very rare PP, check out his talking watches on Hodinkee.

    • Ariel Adams

      Patek Philippe is a brand we admire greatly, but they, like everyone, aren’t perfect. They get a little lost in their own egos sometimes, and I think that while they don’t particularly like people offering them critical feedback, such discussion can ultimately lead to them making better watches. If that isn’t the ultimate value of people discussing products on the internet, then I don’t know why we all sit around doing this.

      David and I have photographed thousands upon thousand of watches, so we have a special expertise and experience when it comes to how crystals on luxury watches interact with light. It would be unfair to characterize this situation as uncommon, because the reality is that it is the rare exception to the norm that is a watch with a properly designed crystal. Patek does have some excellent crystals, especially the flat ones on watches such as the Nautilus.

      Speaking of the Nautilus, hate to alter your notion of who is into Patek Philippe timepieces these days, but the urban music community has seemingly transitioned away from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to the Patek Philippe Nautilus as their high-end luxury watch of choice.

      • Mark1884

        Is nothing sacred? Not the Nautilus!!!!!!!!!

    • JLG
      • Mark1884

        NOOOOOOO !!!!!!!!!!!!

  • Ross Diljohn

    Russian oligarchs only need apply.

  • Terance Hill

    When you read the headline and I know you’re going to be seeing the Patek Philippe. You expect you’re going to see something wonderful and special. I knew I didn’t have to race to the bottom to know it was going to be expensive. But as I read through the article and found out it was cheesy inexpensive I was a little let down 85000 and you can’t read the time in the sunlight cuz it reflects so badly so bad in fact even though writer mentions this thank you David and expect someone to actually say something not quite right about a watch that’s expensive.
    Even the overall look of the dial I wasn’t happy just didn’t seem to be up to
    P.P. standards. At least when it was turned over the display case didn’t disappoint . Even if I could afford it just better stuff out there for less money

  • BNABOD

    Nice to see diamonds done right in a non obnoxious way. Discreet and useful as markers in this case. AR coating on the inside if u r worried about scratching it when on the outside but really no excuse at 85 grand for the lack of it. Almost seems cheap to me to not include it. Now the movement and yup it rocks but does it move me, does it scream “yeah eat this Arnold und Sohne” nope it does not to me. It looks very well made but almost industrial.
    I am just not seeing 85k worth here . Personally would save the money and buy a Zenith.

    • egznyc

      The diamonds aren’t over the top here IMO, though I’m not really in the market for a watch anywhere near this price point. What’s more, the platinum case is very nice and understated. I’d definitely wear this (if I had a crazy-rich uncle who bought it for me).

      Great photos in this review.

  • SuperStrapper

    Big love. This kind of diamond implementation is how it works best, as I see it. Similar long baguettes, like we saw with the nautalus anniversary.
    The 29.535 is delicious, but I would love just a little more colour contrast/interest. Heat blues elements or similar. But the aesthetic here is undeniable PP.
    If I could change anything, it would be niggles at best. 41mm width. No lume strips on the hands. And these box style pushers aren’t my favourite for a chronograph.

  • Berndt Norten

    I believe in miracles
    Since you came along
    You critical thang

    • Mark1884

      Nothing better than some HC!

  • SPITX206

    A nice watch, would have been nicer without the diamonds.

  • Ranchracer

    This will be PERFECT when I leave the Bentley in the garage and roll the cheap S-Class to blend in with the proletariat. Oh wait, I’m thinking of someone else. I’m broke. Plus I can’t pull off even “stealth” diamonds in my VW.

  • Pete L

    Really classic. I don’t mind these diamond markers, a la Nautilus anniversary, as the shape suits them and makes them more functional and less showy imho. Would be better without though.

  • Omegaboy

    No lume. It’s a deal-breaker for me.

    • egznyc

      The hour and minute hands appear to have thin strips of lume. Not so helpful though when the dial is without.

    • BobHoover Tiangco

      I’ve got no money. Deal breaker for me.

  • I don’t understand why the strap is not curved…

  • Richard Baptist

    I don’t know, something about this watch leaves me feeling underwhelmed. I don’t know if its been done before, it feels stagnant to me. I think I could do better with 85k.

  • Ariel Adams

    David and I share a passion for complaining about glare and overly-reflective experiences with watch crystals. There are numerous reasons why a sapphire crystal (or otherwise) will have glare, and to remove it altogether requires a lot of refinement and focus on small details (which is ideally what any luxury watch experience should be like). In other words, while it is hard to remove glare, it isn’t impossible – and the knowledge is out there.

    One of the primary reasons for glare on curved sapphire crystals is that most watchmakers elect to not have their suppliers place anti-reflective coating on the top of the crystals, and rather only on the bottom. It gets complicated because it isn’t just a matter of applying or not applying anti-reflective coatings, but rather rather how many layers, how it is applied, and of course the specific shape of the crystal itself.

    The vast majority of watch brands do not produce crystals themselves, and are to a degree reliant on what their suppliers will or will not do. With that said, at luxury prices like this we are infrequently sympathetic to the reasons watch brands for not addressing issues with crystal reflectivity. Their most common concern is that AR-coating on the top of a crystal will start to wear off and then look ugly. This is a mostly legacy concern that totally ignores the universe of coatings or other treatments which can for the most part prevent AR-coating from scratching off. If the entire point of a watch is to admire looking at the dial, then in our opinion watch brands with the reputation for innovation that Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega, etc… have, should put some serious effort into making sure that the design and rendering of the sapphire crystals they use over their dials, are given the same level of attention as the dials themselves.

    • Sheez Gagoo

      Why don’t you write an article about AR-coating?

      • Chaz

        And date windows

    • cluedog12

      I have had AR scratching issues with two watches: A 2004 Breitling Chrono Cockpit and a 2014 Ressence Type 1. If AR crystal scratching is a legacy concern, that’s news to me!

  • Yanko

    Diamond markers ruin the watch.

  • Ian john horwood

    You can buy a few nice gold chronographs pieces for the price of this patek. Platinum is a sure waste of money and does not look different from the best steel, it gets scratched and looks bad the same as steel. It would not make you feel illated, but robbed most likely. Most normal people would think it is steel. 2nd hand platinum can fetch less than gold in lots circumstances. A piece where you would definately feel cheated, underwhelmed for the price.Its not better than any other quality watch, so what if its a PP, its not more special than any other quality decent watch, its just in people’s closed minds that it is.

  • Swipster

    I can’t help but feel that the writer is salty of the fact that he can’t afford one of these… That’s how the beginning of the article sounds like.
    Or maybe I’m wrong and he’s just salty over the crystal not having double AR coating, lol.

    • David Bredan

      Most of the watches I’ve written about I’m yet to be able to afford, so there’s that.

      • Roger Goodgion

        No one admires that which is easily obtainable. They shouldn’t. All things worth admiration should be exemplary, difficult, require skill. Those things, if attached to money, should be expensive.

  • paysdoufs

    Beautiful watch, IMHO. But the no-AR decision by PP is a headscratcher. Maybe this can be addressed by a customization at the manufacture? My only design grief would rather be the subdials and the one too many concentric lines there.

  • Berndt Norten

    The movement looks like a spaghetti flyover–there’s no logic or unifying theme. It’s a random mishmash. Lange is SO much more pleasant to look at. This seems lazy. And the finishing isn’t as nice as that on a Lange at half the price. Clunk.

  • Chiboy

    It seems a little overkill to spend the entire first half of the review airing out a personal issue with crystal reflection as well as poking fun at those who like diamonds on their luxury watches. Personally, I likely would never buy a watch with diamonds, but do think this watch is well executed for those than indulge. The second half of the review was more interesting to me as it was actually about the watch in question rather than being a long rant about crystal glare in general.

    • Berndt Norten

      Maybe there was a strategic decision made at ABTW HQ: ‘yo, colleagues, check out the near-universal criticism in the comments section. We’re accused of favouring overpriced brands like RM. maybe it’s time to buy some street cred by daring, just once, to be ‘critical.’ Let’s get critical, critical, I wannus to gets critical. Let me hear your minds talk. Let’s get into critical.’

      Over the wire one reviewer says, ‘um, ok boss, so we’re going to go after RM or Hublot?’ The reply is swift: ‘no, numpty, we’re gonna take on the big boys who use reflective sapphire ‘!

      A thousand years from now, men will say, ‘this was their finest hour.’

      The hour when ABTW spoke truth
      To the power
      Of reflective sapphire.

      • Roger Goodgion

        Somewhere in the distance, Fonzi jumped a shark. He looked at his watch to note the exact time he jumped the shark.
        But because of the lousy AR, all he could say was “Aaaay!”.

  • Tea Hound

    The hour markers look like those little tubes in Ball watches, the sub dial hands look like they came from a parts bin and don’t match or complement the style of the main hands whatsoever, the all white dial printing is uninspired, the watch is too small, the movement looks like robot vomit and the price is way too high. An over-reflective crystal is the least of its problems to be honest. Classic Patek, in other words.

  • Marius

    To be honest, I find this AR fetisch quite absurd.

    Firstly and most importantly, the AR coating is the least of my concerns when buying a watch. To me, the most important elements are: the quality of the dial; the fit & finish of the case; the decoration and overall appearance of the movement; and the design of the watch. If these elements are met, then you have a great watch irrespective of AR/non AR-coated crystal. For instance, one watch that I’m planning to purchase in the future is the Lange 1. Do I care about its AR coating? Not at all. In fact, I can guarantee you that the average punter doesn’t even know what AR is. The fact that I, the greatest watch expert in the world don’t care about AR coating, should be evocative.

    Secondly, the three watches that I own have no AR coating, and I never had a problem with reading the time. Of course, it’s true that the sun gracing our beautiful Côte d`Azur delivers probably the best light in the world, but even so, I never had any problem whatsoever with my non AR-coated watches. Judging by this article, you would think that this AR “issue” is on everybody’s lips, when in fact very few people (if any) actually base their buying decision on this aspect. Sure, non AR-coated watches are quite difficult to photograph, but as far as the average watch buyer is concerned, this is an inexistent problem.

    Lastly, such expensive watches are status symbols for its owners, and prestige items for the manufacturing brands. Watches such as this Patek Philippe are mostly built to show-off sumptuous movements in precious-metal cases. Sure, legibility and glare reflection should be better-adressed, but these are not the main concerns of super expensive brands. That’s like reviewing a Lamborghini Aventador and criticizing its poor visibility, high fuel consumption, and small boot. Sure, an Aventador has a rather poor visibility, especially in reverse gear, but that’s not the reason you buy this car.

  • benjameshodges

    Such an enjoyable read.

  • cluedog12

    Your concern regarding the crystal is appreciated. I’ve never had a watch where the AR was a problem, so it’s surprising to me that you’d run into this exact problem with a mid-range Patek. For $85,000, I’d expect attention to all details.