Moving on to the straps, given that they are thinner and wrap around the wrist more easily than the steel bracelet – they are in my opinion the preferred way to wear the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph. Actually, let me add that the three-hand Overseas Simple Date is likely a lot more comfortable on the bracelet given that the case is 41mm wide (so 1.5mm narrower) and almost 3mm thinner at 11mm thick.
Given the quick release system for the straps it is easy to put them on. That also includes the secondary folding deployant clasp that you also need to attach in order to wear the strap. These are simple to swap out with some clever engineering, but also have a similarly small connection point issue. I am however sort of annoyed that Vacheron Constantin includes just one deployant clasp that you need to switch out between the rubber and leather strap. This part is steel, probably not too expensive to make, and not the type of thing I feel should be skimped on in a watch at this price point.
Again, we aren’t talking $10,000 or even $20,000. We are talking a watch with a retail price just shy of $30,000. Is that a price point where an owner should be expected to share a relatively simple steel part between two included straps? I’d just assume that each included strap has enough hardware so that it doesn’t need to share with other parts. In defense of Vacheron Constantin, they aren’t the only watch brand to do things like this. The good news is that I am sure you can buy an extra one from the brand.
As I said above, the rubber strap was my favorite here. It is thin enough to be pliable and has a nice look to it. This generation Overseas Chronograph was meant for rubber… The rubber strap matches the color of the dial, which for now is available in sliver/white, metallic brown, and blue for the Overseas collection. Brown is the latest addition and it is pretty nice. I like the blue dial the best for the chronograph, and the white dial the most for the three hand. What is really nice about the white dial is the black-colored hands and applied hour markers as they present the most effective legibility due to the contrast with the face.
Overall the Overseas Chronograph dial is well-done. The two biggest complaints people will have are really a matter of taste. This is one area where Vacheron Constantin has applied its famed attention to detail and made the dial very nice looking. The first complaint people will have is the placement and presence of the date window. Maybe even more conspicuous by its frame, the date window between 4 and 5 o’clock breaks the dial’s otherwise attractive symmetry. More so, it very visibly sticks out.
I personally wasn’t bothered by the date window, but I know that a lot of watch lovers take issue with date windows which aren’t ideally placed on a dial. So much so that many watch collectors simply don’t want watch makers today to include a date window when it doesn’t add to the aesthetics. If you recall, the previous generation Overseas Chronograph made use of a big date indicator under 12 o’clock. On a positive note, I do like the font Vacheron Constantin chose for the date window.
Recessed sub-dials add welcome depth to the dial with yet a third plane for the eye to look at (under the dial, which itself is under the hour markers and hands). The dial also has a lot of luminant on it so viewing it in the dark is usually pretty easy. Dial legibility is good and there is a nice picture of “stuff to look at” and simplicity. With that said, what the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph dial has in handsome looks and functionality, it lacks in distinctive personality. No one element on the dial makes the watch an Overseas, or a Vacheron Constantin for that matter (aside from the logo that is).
I’ll finish up the review with the star of the show in the Overseas Chronograph which is the in-house made Vacheron Constantin caliber 5200 automatic chronograph movement applied with the prestigious Seal of Geneva. To learn more about what the Seal of Geneva is, and why it might mean something to watch collectors, I advise you to consult an article we did with Richemont Group sister brand Roger Dubuis, which is located really, really close to Vacheron Constantin in Geneva. The application of the Seal of Geneva is a promise of sorts. These days it is a promise of performance, production location (in the canton of Geneva), and of aesthetics. In order to get the Seal, a movement has to do a lot of things, and more than ever the Seal of Geneva is worth it.
The Vacheron Constantin caliber 5200 is pretty, large in size, and relatively modern. Nevertheless, it bears many of the tell-tale signs of a traditional hand-finished mechanical Swiss movement. Visible through the back of the Overseas watch, you can view the caliber 5200 movement with its impressive looking solid-gold automatic rotor. Small details are nice to admire such as the Vacheron Constantin Maltese Cross logo topping the chronograph’s column wheel transmission system.
The 5200 movement operates at 4Hz (28,800 bph) and has a power reserve of at least 52 hours. It is a large movement at just over 30mm wide and 6mm thick. That does limit this to mainly sports watches that Vacheron Constantin can use this in. I say this because it is entirely possible that Vacheron Constantin will make good use of their movement investment by finding other watch models to put it in, but given its size we aren’t like to see the caliber 5200 in a svelte dress watch.
The reviewed Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph models are the reference 5500V/110A-B075 in white, the 5500V/110A-B147 in brown, and there is also the not-pictured 5500V/110A-B148 in blue. Each is a perfectly capable nice watch. Vacheron Constantin did an amicable job in presenting a pleasant, while not groundbreaking luxury sports watch. With that said, there isn’t very much the Overseas Chronograph has which other brands don’t have, and that is a must have feature. The Geneva Seal might be one of those things, but I’m not sure it alone is enough to sway a lot of undecided consumers.
What Vacheron Constantin needs to do is first present a real personality for the Overseas in their marketing, and then create a watch that perfectly fits that personality. This type of watch sits at the upper echelon of what a steel watch should be all about. Value here is in prestige and finishing, things which the Overseas Chronograph has, but arguably could have a lot more of. Even the brand doesn’t have that much to say about the collection. Their sole introduction to the Overseas collection on their website is the rather anemic and generic statement, “An invitation to travel. The sleek, sporty Overseas line is intended for all those who love complications that are useful in everyday life.” I’m not sure how that exact same statement doesn’t apply to dozens and dozens of other watches.
The person for whom a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph is ideal is someone who likes large sports watches, likes to show off, but really doesn’t like to show off in the way that others around them do. The biggest competitors to the Overseas are the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. Those models are more popular than the Overseas, but they are also relatively abundant in specific social circles. Does wearing one of them say anything interesting about you, other than that you can afford it? Not really. The Overseas comes with a relatively blank slate. That means the person wearing it gives the watch all the personality that right now Vacheron Constantin isn’t able to. For iconoclasts who want a larger-sized lifestyle luxury sports watch in steel, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph is for you. Price is $28,900. vacheron-constantin.com
Necessary Data
>Brand: Vacheron Constantin
>Model: Overseas Chronograph 5500V series watch
>Price: $28,900
>Size: 42.5mm wide
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Someone who can afford it who can handle its size and who has already ruled out the competition for one reason or another.
>Best characteristic of watch: Dial is mostly elegant and easy to read. Has all the elements a high-end slick sports watch should have. Movement is lovely and comes with a lot of bragging rights.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Lacks a distinctive look which allows onlookers to identify it for what it is. Bracelet doesn’t feel its worth. Strap changing system is a good idea, but comes with some drawbacks and limitations.
