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Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

There is something tirelessly cool about watches with globes on them, which should explain why we’ve seen a recent uptick in world timer watches from small and big brands alike. There are, however, far fewer watches out there with three-dimensional globes actually in them, rather than represented on the dial, and the Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté is one of the handful – and probably the least expensive of them all.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Vicenterra, not being a household name in the watch industry, is pretty much a one-man show established, run by, and founded on the genius of Vincent Plomb. Because the brand doesn’t have some crazy (or invented) history, we’re spared from discussing that and can jump straight into learning how the Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté faired over its few weeks that I have had it in for review.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The Earth – Powered By An ETA 2892

At this point, I am inclined to find something like the watch we are discussing today more impressive than major brands throwing major money at R&D departments to create something ruinously complicated. You see, the Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté’s unique functionality and consequent dial layout was conceived, developed, and made entirely by Vincent, who used what for long has been referred to as a “workhorse movement,” the ETA 2892.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

This base movement runs at 4Hz, has a power reserve of 42 hours, and enough torque to tenderize an elephant – almost. This made it ideal for Vincent to develop a proprietary Vicenterra module that goes on top of the base caliber. The module doubles the base’s 21-jewel count to 42 and, more importantly, adds functions such as a large day-night indicator at 12, a GMT dial at 7, a retrograde date at 2, and of course, a spinning globe at 5 o’clock.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The functions can either be adjusted via the crown or, for the GMT and the globe, via their respective pushers set into the left and right sides of the case. This allows for easy setting and, in fact, the display of time in three separate time zones as the adjusting pushers work well with a solid click, giving away the treats of a well-designed module.

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Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

When you’re traveling, the main hands will indicate your local time, and you can adjust the GMT sub-dial’s hand in one-hour increments to indicate home time (or vice versa when you’re back at base). You can also adjust the globe that makes a full rotation in 24 hours in one-hour jumps to act as a fairly difficult-to-read but still amazing-looking third time indication.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The absolute star of the Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté is, of course, its 6.50mm-diameter, three-dimensional globe. An utter pain in the neck to source, I’m told, this tiny globe has blue coating for the waters and textured, silver-colored areas for the continents. The coolest thing about it is that it appears to be just hanging in its very own designated space inside the case, mid-air, rotating extremely slowly as its considerable weight is carried by the torque of the ETA 2892-A2 caliber.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The globe is proudly on show from not only the front but also through small sapphire windows set into the side and back of the case, with the latter labeled “A l’autre bout du monde” or “On the other side of the world.” I’d not get too philosophical about this because you either find it fascinating or you don’t, but from my time wearing the Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté around, I can report that I never grew tired of seeing this massive celestial body that we call our home distilled into something smaller than a centimeter and under my control.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

While the globe could be linked to the GMT and used as a sort of a day-night indicator for it if you so desired, I never found myself using it as a true reference for anything. Rather, I just took whatever passing moment I had on the subway or mid-flight or when queueing somewhere to appreciate its fine detailing – and then to make it spin a few times around its axle as I set it in motion via the pusher right next to it. Another fun element to it is, of course, how the large, applied Roman 5 index points to a spot somewhere roughly in the Northern Hemisphere.

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Comments

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  • Word Merchant

    I rather like this watch but was completely put off by the utter rubbish on the website:

    VICENTERRA is about a human adventure, the adventure of Vincent Plomb, a man made for challenges and entrepreneurship. It is also a trip in which the steps are as important as the goal, and a journey which essence is the human relationships. But most importantly VICENTERRA is a tribute to the history of humankind that can be summarized with verbs such as to dare, to excel, to discover, to achieve and to transmit.

    Nonsense!

    • David Bredan

      Agreed, that is the typical marketing [insert brand name here] lingo. I feel safe in saying though that marketing is not one bit what sells this watch, which is actually part of its charm (but this is not to say it couldn’t/shouldn’t be improved).

      • IG

        “bullshit” can be inserted there?

        • David Bredan

          Having worked/talked with and known a lot of really small independent brands I’ll say that this is a common issue: more often than not there just is not enough manpower/time/resources dedicated to getting the message right. More importantly that is especially true for small brands that are unusually product focused. I’m pretty sure this brand’s founder couldn’t tell you one word from that marketing gibberish that was written who knows how long ago – but I know he could talk hours about the product itself.
          This is not at all to say that the quote above is not BS because in truth it really sounds like typical marketing nonsense – but, as Rob D pointed out above, at least it’s not the misleading kind. To me, for better or worse, it just shows the focus is on the product, not the message.

    • Rob D

      To be fair, it’s not really that much worse than brands which have no actual links to historic names and companies trading on that history in just as much of a nonesensical way, at least he’s not claiming to be somebody he’s not.

    • BILL

      Transmit our ice legacy! ‘Member that?

  • Such a cool watch and at a very reasonable price for what you get. Looking forward to seeing a review of the simpler (and even more affordable) round reference. Thanks for the review David.

    • David Bredan

      Thanks Mark, I’m too looking forward to it – at that price and size it’s quite tempting, even.

  • Rob D

    Really like this, the attention to detail and how much everything has been though out is fantastic, I was expecting the price to be considerably more than this. Seems like he’s gone very much for ‘practical novelty’ rather than just novelty for the sake of it.

  • IG

    Interesting design with that globe casually put into the corner. Too bad it’s automatic.

    • David Bredan

      Just curious, how would it being hand-wound only make it better? I’m curious because I’m also all for hand-wound in some cases but here most of the complications are on the dial side so it’s not like anything is covered (and if it is, it is by the dial, not the automatic winding) and the case isn’t terribly thick either.

      • IG

        It’s not just about the rotor covering the movement, I just reject the concept of self-winding. I am a purist.

  • ??????

    One of the most impressive watches below 10k IMO. The dial looks unique and pretty complex while remaining just a watch dial, not complex for a sake of complexity. Combined with real-model Earth and titanium case – we have a winner here, even considering it’s based on 2892. Hublot would have charged triple for a similar watch (and ETA based as well).

  • Mark Flanagan

    Don’t forget the infinitely cheaper ($250 USD) Casio Edifice EQB-600 with its spinning 3D day/night hemisphere globe.

    • IG

      Don’t forget that’s a quartz turd, so it’s not cheap enough.

  • BrJean

    Never heard of this brand before but I’m very surprised by the price-quality ratio of this watch.

  • SuperStrapper

    The watch is interesting, and not horribly priced considering the details. I’m finding it hard to get past the ‘first glanced’ impression that looks like something much more affordable? I won’t say cheap because it doesn’t look cheap, but there is just something about that retrograde date display, likely the window to the movement, that is detracting from the rest of the watch.

  • BNABOD

    on some of the pics the watch looks to have an average finish but on some it looks stellar. so it probably is a beast to photograph but if you can tenderize an elephant one should also be able to take pics of the beast. rather impressive outcome for a one man show and a price that is very competitive based on what you are getting. definitely something to see in the flesh if ever possible.

    • David Bredan

      It was quite challenging to photograph this one as a lot of the seemingly similar surfaces were in fact slightly different in tone/reflectivity leaving no one reference point to the eye. As a rule of thumb if something is just average chances are it will never look stellar on any shot so yes, quality is more than decent – I just found it unusually difficult to capture it consistently.

  • IanE

    Cool, but a bit too much of everything for me. Looking forward to the small(-ish) round one though!

  • Thanks for this review David. Never knew the brand existed until now. VERY interesting watch.

    • David Bredan

      My pleasure! I hope to find the time to go hands-on with the round alternative and give you guys a better look at that as well. If you have a larger wrist and like the extra complications then likely this is going to be the right one for you – note that there are multiple versions of this GMT-3 model though I honestly have no idea which ones are in production.

    • David Bredan

      They have been around for some years but until they reached out I didn’t know about them either – not something you see every day (the deleted comment below was mine, just screwed up).

  • Shinytoys

    I love the complications, and the presentation has a solid, quality look. I’d give it serious consideration as a future purchase…

    • David Bredan

      @shinyshinytoys:disqus My pleasure! I hope to find the time to go hands-on with the round alternative and give you guys a better look at that as well. If you have a larger wrist and like the extra complications then likely this is going to be the right one for you – note that there are multiple versions of this GMT-3 model though I honestly have no idea which ones are in production.

      • Shinytoys

        keep us posted on the company’s progress and future offerings, and again, nice job David. Cheers!

  • Shawn Lavigne

    nice watch. would love to see this one in the flesh. quite an achievement to do this with the venerable 2892.

  • Paul

    That is a seriously cool watch. Love the execution of the complications, and I really love the 3D globe. This is what a small, independent watch company should be working on… pieces that don’t exist anywhere else. Definitely a conversation piece for sure. I’m interested to see the new one as well.

  • Ron-W

    I love it !! GMT and a globe, sure its only 9600 CHF ?? What a watch.

  • spiceballs

    Nice job Vincent, and David.

    • David Bredan

      Thank you, appreciate it! (taking credit just for my part, obviously)

  • While quite a bit larger than I would wear, it’s one of the most interesting watches to grace these pages lately. Fantastic detail and originality, rarely seen together today especially at this price point. Cool stuff!

  • Ulysses31

    Classy-looking and with interesting complications that don’t distort the form or add too much bulk.

  • CalmTiger

    WHAT??? aprox 9700$???? what a deal, i read the whole review thinking think was a 40k$ watch. Absolutely class

  • Ranchracer

    I haven’t liked a watch this much in a long time. The price is more than I normally spend on a timepiece, but in this case I may be making an exception. A truly exquisite piece.