Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranSport & GranLusso Watches

Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranSport & GranLusso Watches

Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranSport & GranLusso Watches Watch Releases

Italian watch and fashion brand Bulgari has collaborated with Italian car maker Maserati on special edition watches since 2012. The latest fruits of that collaboration were released at the Frankfurt motor show, and they are a pair of Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro watches that despite being individually named are essentially different material versions of an Octo with a dial design based on a Maserati car's rev counter. The GranSport is the one in black DLC coated steel, and the GranLusso is 18k pink gold. Aimed at Maserati owners, they are naturally going to be "exclusive" in price and availability.

Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranSport & GranLusso Watches Watch Releases

The Bulgari Octo has more or less become the brand's flagship collection and also the platform for the Maserati editions. Only earlier this year we took a hands-on look at the Bulgari Octo Maserati Chronograph watch here, but the new Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro watches share more in common with the initial collaboration watch, the Bulgari Octo Maserati (hands-on from 2012) because that watch was all about retrograde indicators. The Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro watches are simpler, though, with only retrograde minutes to the left of the dial and a digital jumping hour display via a disc and window above the Maserati trident logo.

Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranSport & GranLusso Watches Watch Releases

Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranSport & GranLusso Watches Watch Releases

The Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro watches are 41mm wide and 100m water-resistant. They are powered by the in-house BVL 262 automatic movement which operates at 4Hz with 42 hours of power reserve and is decorated with Geneva stripes, polished bevels, and snailing. It is visible through what appears to be a tinted sapphire crystal display caseback, and the view is partly obscured by the Maserati logo. While the base movement is the BVL 191 found in a number of other Bulgari watches, the jumping hours and retrograde hand would have required significant modification.

Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranSport & GranLusso Watches Watch Releases

Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranSport & GranLusso Watches Watch Releases

Bulgari has played around a bit with retrograde complications for an avant-garde look and technically more interesting package. They have done a good job of creating a very distinctive design language and offering something unlike almost anything else out there from mainstream brands. The Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro watches have a bit of Gerald Genta (Octo case, of course) and a bit of Daniel Roth, as the jumping hour and retrograde hand is reminiscent of the Papillon watches (hands-on here with the Bulgari Papillon Tourbillon Central watch).

Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranSport & GranLusso Watches Watch Releases

While the Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro watches are not as haute horology as some other watches done with Maserati, expensive and exclusive is to be expected. Both are available only in Bulgari boutiques. The Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranSport (ref. 102717) in black DLC steel has a USD price of $12,800 and will only be available to the first 30 buyers of the Maserati GranTurismo and GranCabrio cars. The Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranLusso in gold (ref. 102906) is $30,700. bulgari.com

What do you think?
  • I want it! (9)
  • Interesting (4)
  • I love it! (4)
  • Thumbs up (2)
  • Classy (2)
  • Berndt Norten

    This one goes to 6?? !!! Phil leavell, here’s your watch.

    • P. Leavell

      I wouldn’t even allow this watching my coffon

      • Berndt Norten

        Ok. But what about your coffin?

        • P. Leavell

          Cheated death this month see how it goes the next. one. Spent this week up at the cottage sitting on the beach might spend another week
          Hey sorry about the loss of up votes I erased myself out and started over again

          • Berndt Norten

            It’s ok, Phil. Enjoy your cottaging

  • IG

    Mamma mia, the big 0..6 numerals look like hours, and the jumping hour looks like the date… Molto bene!

    • Berndt Norten

      That was my first impression too. So, is this a 6 ?

      • IG

        More like a 0…

      • Dr. Renato Lazarus

        It’s not 12:34, it’s 3:27 on the 12th.

    • I assumed they were as you say!

  • Marius

    “While the Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro watches are not as haute horology as some other watches done with Maserati, expensive and exclusive should be expected.”

    I don’t understand why “expensive and exclusive should be expected.” Taking a closer look at the base caliber used by these watches — the BVL 191 — reveals that it features a rather mediocre finish & decoration, and from a technical perspective, it`s a rather standard and unimpressive caliber. Personally, I really don’t see a big difference between the BVL 191 and a COSC grade ETA. In fact, I would prefer the ETA since it’s a time-proven, reliable movement.
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/0e4c71b282f9a8a33d1789c1cb99ff960d6d7f672af754a12ded8670e00120af.jpg

    Furthermore, the DLC coated steel case is neither mega difficult to manufacture, nor does it feature some out-of-this-world technology. In my opinion, the $13,000 price for the steel reference is absolutely ridiculous, not to mention that the $31,000 gold version makes even the Hüblottt Bingo Bango look like a real bargain — at least the Hüblottt uses the Unico flyback chronograph movement. Of course, the Unico caliber will most likely be dead-on-arrival, but that’s another story for another time.

    “Both are available only in Bulgari boutiques to Maserati owners.”

    So, can only Maserati owners purchase these two beauties? Let’s say that I walk into the Bvlgari boutique in Rome, situated on the splendid Via dei Condotti. Let’s further assume that I’m accompanied by “Sophie-Claire”, my Thai ladyboy. If he/she pulls out €31,000, will he/she be able to purchase the watch, or will he/she also have to prove that he/she owns a Maserati. Furthermore, I have another question: What if the Maserati is leased, and the actual owner is a financial institution. What then?

    • cluedog12

      “So, can only Maserati owners purchase these two beauties?”

      I could live without ever knowing the answer to this question.

    • Kuroji

      Pretty sure the AD’s are always trying to flog out-of-date car company co-branded watches to everyone who walks in. Then they go to Costco.

  • Word Merchant

    I have a strange liking for the gold one, but unfortunately lack the necessary car to seal the deal.

    The black one is pretty grotty though.

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Stick one on the dash board of every car sold as a wee thank you.

  • Phil leavell

    Oh my $31,000 egg timer who the saw that coming
    Hey Marius do you like 6 minutes eggs, perhaps you could strap this on your ladyboy Chief

  • Sheez Gagoo

    What is it about the Octogugus that makes the world going crazy? I don’t get it.

  • Buy and Sold

    More than a fashion brand this is a watchmaker producing works of art. The dial textures, layout and complication are awesome.

  • Kuroji

    “Why not make 12 a little higher, and make it go to 12?”
    “??? These go to 6.”

    • Berndt Norten

      They’ve been reading these comments. Phil inspired them.

  • Ross Diljohn

    I assume there is a market but I’m curious as to the type of individuals bulgari thinks would pony up 13K for this. I mean the back is nice enough but who buys a watch because that? All in all it’s a head scratcher.

  • 200 Fathoms

    What a flawed idea. Yes, please make my brain work as hard as possible to figure out what time it is.

  • Yan Fin

    They should have it COSC certified. Will make a precise instrument for presentation of exact Italian time.

  • BNABOD

    Maybe a reasonable price , maybe a steel version non PVDed , maybe a better font for the hour and minutes, maybe a removal of the trident , maybe a less ridiculous strap, well maybe just a new watch

  • Using english for “Italy” looks out of place.

  • Why do you write it Bulgari and not Bvlgari?

    • Christian Griffin

      It’s Bulgari or BVLGARI. Smh

      • I didn’t know, always thought it was with a “V”. Thank you!

  • SuperStrapper

    Almost a subtle nod (the watches themselves are certainly not subtle) to actual genta-era octo retrograde watches.

  • Dénes Albert

    Outstanding departure from traditional watch layout and common sense. To use an automotive analogy – which I believe to be fitting in this case – in the same vein, Maserati should make a sports car with the gearshift behind the driver’s seat and the brake pedal in the passenger footwell.

  • Very nice

  • Timestandsstill

    Personally I like them both. Jumping hours is one of my favorite complications and I love the Octo case. I think they are well done and I’d happily wear either one. I believe that the jumping hour and retrograde complications were more common to the Genta heritage than Daniel Roth however.

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