July 31, 2021
by Kenny Yeo
The Only Watch auction is a meaningful event in which brands submit piece unique watches, with all proceeds going toward the research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. And in this month’s roundup, we are showcasing our favorite watches from the auction. Moving on, we have reviews of Citizen’s Calibre 0200 watch, as well as Doxa’s very attractive Sub 300 Carbon.
From around the Web, we have what could very well be the answer to the Rolex Mystery Cross — one of the greatest unsolved mysteries of vintage Rolexes. Still on the subject of Rolex, we have the story of a very special GMT-Master that belonged to Nader Jahanbai, a general of the Iranian air force who was executed during the Iranian Revolution. And to end, we learn more about the relationships between athletes and watch brands.
Citizen is finally flexing its muscles and taking on Grand Seiko this year with a new model called the Calibre 0200. On the surface, this looks like a simple time-only watch, but as with most high-end Japanese watches, the devil is in the details. The angular faceted case is meticulously polished and the black dial has an exquisitely textured surface. The self-winding movement beats at 4Hz, has 60 hours of power reserve, and is rated to run within COSC chronometer specs. It also looks to be quite well finished. From the looks of things, it’s a strong entry by Citizen into this market segment.
This year marks the ninth edition of the biennial Only Watch auction. All of this auction’s proceeds go toward the research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. More importantly for watch lovers, past editions have seen brands come up with some very interesting and desirable watches. This year is no different and brands returning to the auction include big names like Patek Philippe, Zenith, Tudor, as well as independents such as Akrivia, F.P. Journe, Krayon, and more. Here are some of our favorite watches from this year’s Only Watch auction.
To be clear, this isn’t the first Doxa to come with a carbon case, but it is the first to be a regular production model. Doxa hasn’t messed about here. This is essentially the Sub 300 that we all know and love but placed within a gorgeous forged carbon case. Water resistance is unaltered at 300 meters, but what really gets you is how just beautiful the case is. The case has lovely waves, and it’s a surprisingly great match with Doxa’s typically bright-colored dials. Alright, the movement inside is a standard ETA-2824, but I doubt many Doxa fans will care when the rest of the watch is this good.
Hamilton has been on a roll with vintage-inspired pieces lately. And the company’s latest in this genre of watches is the Intra-Matic Chronograph H. The design of the Chronograph H borrows heavily from Hamilton’s own Chronograph A and B from the late 1960s. It’s available in white (panda) and black (reverse panda) guises. The highlight, however, has to be its vintage-like sizing and movement. The stainless steel case is a modest 40mm and it features a hand-wound movement. The movement might lack a spinning rotor, but it offers a very robust 60 hours of power reserve and it beats at 4Hz. The watch is also water-resistant to 100 meters. If you love the look of vintage chronographs but want the reliability and robustness of a modern watch, this is not a bad watch to kick start your hunt.
The way I see it, the Tissot Seastart 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 is really a mini-Omega Seamaster 300. That’s mainly because the two have textured dials with wave-style patterns on them. Elsewhere, this watch, and its 46mm stainless case, is water-resistant to 600 meters, and it has engraved ceramic bezel that reminds me of another famous dive watch. Inside beats Tissot’s ubiquitous Powermatic 80 movement that beats at 3Hz and has, yes, an 80-hour power reserve. The styling might not be to everyone’s taste, but for under $1,000, it’s hard to argue against the value it offers.