De Bethune DB25 Dead Beat Tourbillon Regulator Watch

De Bethune DB25 Dead Beat Tourbillon Regulator Watch

De Bethune DB25 Dead Beat Tourbillon Regulator Watch Watch Releases

I will repeat to you the words that I recently told De Bethune's CEO. There are expensive watches that I really appreciate and know that I would strongly consider getting them if I had the money. Then there is De Bethune, that actually makes me angry I cannot afford it." I've written about De Bethune a bit over the years - not having too much experience with the pieces. But recently I was fortunate enough to finally meet with the boutique Swiss brand and experience the magic.

Like a handful of other brands out there, De Bethune is a brand that even the most seasoned and mature watch lovers and collectors are extremely fond of. They simply do things others cannot. Their designs are out of this world, and their mechanics are brilliant, functional, and drop-dead gorgeous to admire. These watches are a dream - and funny enough one of their pieces is actually called "The Dream Watch."

De Bethune DB25 Dead Beat Tourbillon Regulator Watch Watch Releases

2011 sees the DB25 - an interesting timepiece that plays with the tourbillon in a new way. Unlike some of De Bethune's other watches, the DB25 comes in a relatively classic looking case (aside from the skeletonized lugs) - that is 44.5mm wide in 18k white or rose gold. The dial ends with a ring of hand-engraved silver, while its center repeats De Bethune's sky theme of having a flame blued titanium plate that has been hand polished. Individual white gold "stars" are placed on the dial showing the night sky over the factory. The customer can custom order the dial to be the night sky of any place, at anytime in history.

Notice the cut-away window in the dial that has an indicator for the 5 day power reserve. Flip the watch over and you'll see a beautiful thing. This is the new De Bethune calibre DB2109 manually wound movement. You'll first notice the curved triangular like shape that you see on many of the brand's pieces. Finishing is just great, and the movement seems to pop out at you given the mix of colors from all the elements. The movement has a power reserve of 100 hours and is very accurate. The tourbillon has a few very special things about it.

De Bethune DB25 Dead Beat Tourbillon Regulator Watch Watch Releases

First, this is a dead-beat seconds tourbillon - the first one I know of. This makes the seconds tick rather than sweep. The tourbillon is also a 30 second tourbillon. This is because it spins so quickly having a rate of 36,000 bmp. De Bethune re-engineered the  tourbillon to help realized Breguet's original concept of it - but for a watch, not just a pocket watch. As such, De Bethune created the world's lightest tourbillon - weighing just 0.18 grams! The carriage is made out of silicium and titanium. For the balance wheel, they make it from silicium and platinum (cause it needs some weight to actually spin). For these reasons, it does not look like any tourbillon you'll have ever seen. The tourbillon bridge is in hand-fired blued titanium. Which is actually cool, because I though you could only flame blue steel.

Seeing the movement operate is so very cool. The DB2109 is perfectly indicative of what amazing things De Bethune is capable of.  It is also worth adding that the watch is not too thick at just 11mm. I look forward to sharing with you more De Bethune watches. I am so happy to have finally made a personal acquaintance with the brand. Their pieces should exist on a short list of brands to get if you are looking for something very well-made and highly unique at a roughly $50,000-$90,000 price point.

De Bethune DB25 Dead Beat Tourbillon Regulator Watch Watch Releases

Technical specs from De Bethune:

Movement DB2109 — mechanical hand-wound

Mainplate hand-decorated and snailed, hand-chamfered and polished steel parts, De Bethune stripes

Natural fired-blue titanium bridge

Self-regulating twin barrel*

Thermocompensated silicon/platinum balance wheel*

Balance-spring with flat terminal curve*

Ultra-light 0.18 gram silicon/titanium tourbillon carriage*

Jewelling: 45 jewels

Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour

Power reserve: 100 hour

Shaped case 44.6 mm in diameter in white or rose gold

Thickness: 10.8 mm

Glass: sapphire crystal with double glareproofing, 1800 Vickers

Crown: screw-locked at 12 o’clock — adjustable in two positions

Dial: De Bethune star-studded sky in blued steel with gold stars — Sterling silver hours and minutes ring

Hands: hand-polished steel

Open back revealing the 30-second rotating silicon/titanium tourbillon with jumping seconds

Strap: extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle

What do you think?
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  • Dean Grant Baker

    What a truely hideous watch. “Dream?” get real; it’s a nightmare.
    “A design out of this world”? or rather more likely a blatant rip off of a Star Trek “communicator bage”; Time to move out of your parent’s basements and kiss a girl.
    And; the Roman numerals 6-9 are upside down.
    I hate the hollow lugs; they look like cheap zipper pulls.
    If I want stars on my watch I’ll get an Astrodea.

    • lol. I have no idea what you are talking about – these are cool watches even if you don’t like the designs.

  • “Time to move out of your parent’s basements and kiss a girl.” – Woah @Dean, you saying this about the brand or the author? 🙂

    • Tarak

      He’s just an internet tough guy.

  • kris c

    Dean! You havn’t been around to try and troll this place in a while – how’s kicks? You still fail, BTW. It’s not trolling if the only one that gets upset is you while everyone else points and laughs.

    Anyway, this new DB is pretty awesome. I’ve never been a fan of skeletonized lugs, and this really is not much iof an exception, but I could still see myself wearing it. Would I get the Big Dipper on mine? Maybe. Love the 30-second tourbie as well, although GF has a 24-second version, no? I’m going to wait it out – my first tourbillon will be a 7.8 second tourbillon. It’ll happen one day, and you’ll all be jealous. Espcially Dean.

  • dshon

    1st dead-beat seconds with a tourbillion? A manufacture named Journe made a big splash by introducing such a watch ten years ago. I thought you were a fan of Journe?

  • Robert Herzig


  • pat I.

    I always liked their watches. My favorite is the Digitale, but they’re all classy if stratospheric in price.

    Any word on reliability and quality? Anyone?? Beuller?? Beuller? IW? Watch Time?? Watch Journal??? How about those manneq- I mean models over there – the ones dressed like Klingon h**kers for the “Revolution” shoot?? No comment??

    How about that German Sheperd – in the black turtleneck and smart glasses?

    Oh well. back to you, Ariel.

    • What is it about this post that has forced a lot of people to not make any sense when commenting?

  • Pete

    Heres some sense, De Bethune make some of the best luxury watches in the world. They are like Patek’s (in my eyes at least) but for cool people.

    Pat I, you lost me around the second Beuller……

    • pat I.

      Sorry about that. I really do like their watches – honestly.

      As I have discussed several times in this blog, I cannot believe that a 15,000 dollar car gets reviewed, tested and ripped to shreds (or praised)
      but all the Watch magazines get the vaoprs and fall over themselves to praise every 100,000 contraption that comes out of Switzerland – with no basis.

      Sorry I thought you guys would be able to decipher my tirades by now.

      • cluedog

        This is an interesting point – and I agree to some extent. However watches are their own beast…they’re machine, they’re art, and opinions can be formed and changed with effective advertisement. I don’t read IW because I find the writing is less objective than Watchtime and the photography is inferior to Watch Journal.

        Besides this blog, there is a new’ish French website (there is a bad English-translated version as well) that does a nice job of objectively/subjectively reviewing a range of luxury watches that they (claim to) wear themselves. Perhaps Ariel knows of said site and will post the link?

        By the way, De Bethune makes awesome watches!

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