Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

For the past five or so years, I have been watching the development of Nomos with great interest. Nomos was established in 1990 and so it is fast approaching its 30the anniversary now. In the past couple of years, the German brand has slowly but surely not just expanded its collections but also developed its own movement. Now, for Baselworld 2017, we see the new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik which is the culmination of these efforts on both fronts, and we had the chance to handle these watches at the show in red, blue, black, and white dial options. Interestingly, when looking at previous Ahoi watches, the new line shrinks in case size to now house the in-house DUW 3001 caliber that Nomos introduced back in 2015.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

The Nomos Ahoi is one of Nomos’ newer collections. It was introduced in 2013 as their dive watch collection. Unlike other Nomos watches, it has luminous hands and markers, a screw-down crown, a beefier case, and higher water-resistance of 200 meters. Neomatik, on the other hand, refers to Nomos’ watches that are powered by their in-house DUW 3001 movement. So in the case of the Nomos Ahoi Neomatik, it refers to their sporty Ahoi watches fitted with their DUW 3001 movement.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

That said, the Nomos Ahoi Neomatik is markedly different from the earlier Nomos Ahoi watches. There are four new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik models in total, and while they are all made out of stainless steel, the case size is actually smaller. The earlier Ahoi models were 40mm wide and around 10.6mm thick, but these new Ahoi Neomatik watches are just 36.3mm wide and 9.55mm thick. This means they are significantly smaller than their predecessors. However, because of their long lugs and beefier case construction, they do not wear as small as their case dimensions would suggest. On the wrist, they could be mistaken for 38mm watches.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Like the earlier Ahoi watches, the new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik watches have a water resistance of 200 meters, which makes them suitable for recreational diving. To ensure water-resistance, the Ahoi Neomatik has a screw-down crown protected by very subtle crown guards. The case back is see-through sapphire, which is a nice touch, because it is not very often that you see dive watches with display case backs. Plus, with the display case back, owners can more easily appreciate and admire the in-house DUW 3001 movement within (more on the movement later). The watches also come with a textile strap, which will hold up to water better than the usual shell cordovan straps that most Nomos watches have. The textile strap feels nice on the skin and, along with the smaller case size, really contributes to the wearing comfort of these new watches.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

The Nomos Ahoi Neomatik has a Bauhaus dial design that Nomos watches are so famous and well-loved for. It is clean, simple, and highly legible. But since this is a watch that has been designed to go diving, it has slightly thicker hands that are filled with luminescence material. There are tiny lume markers at each hour marker too. All four models will have a bright orange seconds hand in the running seconds sub-dial. I think sometimes people find Nomos watches to look a little too inoffensive or demure, so even the most subtle design elements like these add a little bit of an edge (that word might be too much) to these minimalist and now smaller watches.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

There will be four dial colors on offer here. The first two will be familiar to readers - Silver and Atlantic Blue. But there’s also two new dial colors here called “Signalblau” and “Signalrot.” The former is a very bright, almost neon, blue; and the later is a very bright red. I like these two new colors very much. Under direct light, the new Signalblau and Signalrot almost look as if they are glowing, but under dimmer light conditions, they take on a darker more somber hue. Signalblau is probably the more versatile of the two, but there’s no doubt in my mind that Signalrot is the more fun color and watch to wear. The Silver and Atlantic Blue models are nice too. The Silver is arguably the most classic, while Atlantic Blue appears dark blue under direct light and looks almost black from certain angles.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

One of the highlights of these Nomos Ahoi Neomatik watches is the DUW 3001 movement within. This movement is the result of many years of research and over €15 million in development costs. It is a movement developed entirely by Nomos and uses Nomos’ own “Swing System” escapement. In addition, it is remarkably thin for an automatic movement with a full-rotor, just 3.2mm in total height. The movement has a third-quarter plate that stays faithful to Glashütte watchmaking traditions, and all rotating components are fitted into only 1mm of space between the base plate and the three-quarter plate. Despite its slim dimensions, it has a 3Hz beat rate and power reserve is 42 hours. All in all, the DUW 3001 remains a significant achievement for Nomos and an essential component when it comes to watches like these that carry a relatively high $4,000+ price point.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

As I mentioned earlier, the DUW 3001 movement is visible through the display case back and it is handsomely finished - for a watch at its price. There’s perlage on the base plate, blued screw, machined beveled edges on the three-quarter plate and balance bridge, and also Côtes de Genève on the three-quarter plate and on the partially skeletonized rotor. And although Nomos doesn’t send its movements for COSC certification, we were told that all movements are regulated to run within COSC specifications.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos has always done things in their own way, and the new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik is further evidence of that. It is, for all intents and purposes, a dive watch, but one that is done in the immutable style of Nomos. It may have dive watch specifications, but it doesn’t sacrifice any of the wearability, elegance, and quirkiness that we have come to associate with the brand. With one look at it, there’s no doubting that it is a Nomos. The new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik is priced at $4,020 for the Silver dial, and $4,120 for the Atlantik, Signalblau, and Signalrot dials. nomos-glashuette.com

What do you think?
  • I want it! (66)
  • Interesting (16)
  • I love it! (10)
  • Thumbs up (6)
  • Classy (1)
  • “…because it is not very often that you see dive watches with display case backs”

    “It may have dive watch specifications…”

    I don’t know what makes you think a dress watch with no timing bezel and an unlumed small-seconds hand is a ‘dive watch’. It’s an overbuilt, water resistant dress watch.

    • Matthew Rowe

      Yeah, it’s a vacation watch. Snorkeling by day, cocktails by night, watch is not doffed.

      • Thorsten Reitz

        Yepp, that’s exactly what I use it for :).

  • ??????

    Regardless of pumpkin-orange and baby-blue “funny” colors, these look rather dull for 4k+. I appreciate the inhouse movement, but the cases look somewhat uninspiring. Anyway, hard to conclude without seeing them in person.

  • IanE

    I like their designs, but the printed dials look cheap and the case and lugs aren’t much better. Of course they are not priced as high-end watches!

    • IG

      What’s wrong with printed dials? Most watches have printed dials.

      • IanE

        Nothing wrong with printed dials per se: it’s just that these look cheap – as I said!

        • IG

          So then it’s irrelevant that these are printed dials they just look cheap (for you).

          • IanE

            Heavens, NO :they look cheap because the printing is badly done! Got it???

  • A_watches

    For me the crown guards are not subtle, let alone “very subtle”.

  • IG

    Neomatik-Schmeomatik… They shouldn’t ruined that movement with the rotor.

  • SuperStrapper

    So, for $4k I can have a ladies sized watch that was designed for children? Sounds legit.

    • cluedog12

      Don’t we all wish we could go back to our childhoods, if only for a day or two.

      • SuperStrapper

        Agreed. And, I had cooler watches than these even when I was a kid. Including g shocks.

  • Yan Fin

    This is priceless:”they could be mistaken for 38mm watches.”

  • KC Lee

    I love they reduce the size to 36mm which gives the original Nomos feel. Just the pricing point is a bit too high. The blue colour is actually not bad. The selling point is you can own both Neomatik movement and Ahoi design in one go.

  • Jon Han

    Don’t see myself being able to pull off that red…

  • Shinytoys

    The first thing that strikes me is how uncluttered and spacious the watch faces are. Everything on the dial looks purposeful and clear, making telling the time a breeze. I also like the choice of colors. No doubt people who like the style will own more than one color of the same model. I also like the idea of an in house movement where there was considerable time and effort placed into the design. The price for all of this I feel is very fair, and in reach of many who want to wear something stylish and fairly bold. I do wish they had stayed with the larger case, 40mm seems to be the smallest case I will wear unless we are talking vintage and antique pieces. Nice job Nomos and Kenny Yeo !

  • BNABOD

    yeah hum right…..I am gonna go with no on this and I am going to need you to come back on Sunday……right.
    serioulsy 4 Gs me think not.

  • Marius

    Nomos is a very interesting brand, but just like Grand Seiko, they are starting to increase their prices without offering a substantial increase in quality and value.

    From a design perspective, this watch has a rather bland and uninteresting case and dial. Sure, the blue and orange dials are very funky, but they are more appropriate on a $100 fashion watch than on a $4,200 timepiece. My impression is the the classical black and white dials will be the most popular.

    From a technical perspective, the Nomos DUW 3001 in-house caliber is a very good movement — it’s nicely-finished as well as technically interesting. However, I wouldn’t pay over $4,000 for the movement alone.

    Lastly, from a prestige perspective, Nomos is not exactly the strongest brand. Personally, I wouldn’t pay $4,000 for a Nomos considering that for the same price I could get an Omega, Tudor, Grand Seiko, or entry-level IWC. As far as divers are concerned, I would much rather spend the $4,200 on a Tudor Pelagos, which is a much more interesting and attractive watch.

    • cluedog12

      Having handled some Nomos watches, both the simplicity and diminutive case sizes are refreshing. For people who own multiple watches, including a Rolex or two, a Nomos will fill out a collection nicely. Less overlap than another Omega or Tudor!

    • Scott Keefer

      “Nomos is a very interesting brand, but just like Grand Seiko, they are starting to increase their prices without offering a substantial increase in quality and value.”

      So, like every other luxury brand over the past few decades? And this is a problem specifically for Nomos and Grand Seiko, why?

      “Lastly, from a prestige perspective”
      There it is. If you are ever buying a watch for prestige, you are doing it wrong.

  • Beefalope

    Nomos makes quality watches at fair prices, but I just can’t get into their designs. Not for me.

  • Mark1884

    These are nice clean fun watches.
    But at those prices…. I will never see one closer than here.

  • BILL

    Great! Looks cheap but isn’t. And on white nylon? Makes it look even cheaper.

    • The Deplorable Boogur T. Wang

      Perhaps to coordinate with the wearers white shoes and belt?

      I do like these offerings a great deal. Quality watches from a known quality marques.

      I especially like their use of colors to brighten things up. All-in-all..well done NOMOS.
      (although I do think a price – cut of 50% would be better)

  • BILL

    Real minimalists don’t even wear watches.

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Why go to the bother of designing a beautifully crafted watch with a beautiful minimalist look, then go and stick a massive crown guard on the side of it,………….what’s that all about ?. The strap is just plain awful looking and the lugs do nothing for me but everything else is ok,……..appart from the price, they need to get a grip.

  • Bozzor

    There is a market for well made, interestingly designed and sized watches. Here, Nomos has a beautifully designed, modern minimalist watch with Bauhaus school hints with its clean, legible dial. A true inhouse automatic movement of very clever design and performance. And the strap just emphasizes this is an unpretentious watch that isn’t trying to use gimmicks to gain a sale. There’s a real purity in concept and execution here. Love it!

  • gw01

    DAMN, I love Nomos… I just wish the Ahoi had a rotating bezel

  • Andrew Njoo

    a diving watch with no diving bezel? so how is it a diving watch?

  • Alex Tan

    Sometimes when I look at certain model of Nomos watches like the Orion 38 no date or Zurich no date, I always thought they forgot to apply a marker at six position. It just feels weird with all the blank space down there.

  • Ulysses31

    They have a cute, toy-like novelty to them, but at an unfortunately not so toy-like price. I could wear one for a day before getting sick of it and wanting to switch to something else, but that disqualifies it for me from being a serious investment. I would need to never get bored of a watch or be able to wear it for weeks at a time to spend so much on it. I’m sure others change their watches as often as their ties, but that isn’t me.

  • otaking241

    New Nomos–yay!
    New movement in the Ahoi–yay!
    Slick colors–yay!
    36.8mm–oh….

  • Ikkijkooknooitnaardiestommetal

    Beautiful, elegant and right size! All those big and ugly things that scream, “Hey, I’m here, look at me, my owner needs reading glasses and look how super I am.” doesn’t work for me. The price is right for this kind watch I think, but my wallet doesn’t agree… ?