That being said, I don’t think the dial is completely a home run. The hands really do bother me since they’re just too short, and this is especially true for the hour hand. In fact, I am pretty sure they’re the same hands you’ll find on the first smaller quartz model which is a shame. Honestly, just a thicker hour hand would offset the issue of the hands looking too small for the dial for the most part. Fortunately, the new blue seconds hand adds just enough of a touch of color to break up the very traditional white and rose gold color scheme.
The movement here is the TCO 2558 which is a modified Sellita SW1000. This is actually the same movement used for the TAG Heuer Caliber 9 which they use in their ladies’ watches, which makes sense when you consider the case design here. It’s an automatic caliber that operates at 4 Hz and has a 40 hour power reserve. It’s a reliable movement that kept time and didn’t give me any real reason to be overly critical or praising of it beyond that.
Looking at the case back, I really grew to appreciate the semi-circular exhibition window. It doubles down on the design of the watch and prevents the not-stellar design of the movement from getting too much attention. The Tiffany & Co. insignia on the rotor is totally fitting and, again, distracts from any blandness otherwise.
You’ll also remember that Tiffany & Co. had partnered up with Swatch back in 2007 to design and produce watches, but that arrangement fell apart in 2011 and led to legal disputes that stretched on for some time afterwards. For the short time Tiffany & Co. have been out on their own making watches, they have created a refined product here which focuses on their strengths and also features a quality mechanical movement, albeit one that is not in-house. There are a ton of options for people seeking dress watches with well-regarded in-house movements but this watch is for the buyer who wants something a little different and my guess is that an in-house movement isn’t at the top of their wish list anyway.
The inspiration for the Tiffany & Co. East West watches comes from an old “purse clock” from the 1940s which sat with a horizontal dial like this. This setup allows you to set the watch down on your desk and use it as a clock, which I actually did and found charming for the first few times. Granted, it never became a regular thing I did since the practical use nowadays is limited. It did add a dimension of old school sophistication though. I can picture it in an old movie where a nervous protagonist who is seeking a raise looks across to his intimidating boss who takes the watch off and sets it down on his office desk, slowly leans back on their chair and makes a finger pyramid with his hand.
The Tiffany & Co. East West Automatic watch has text reading “Swiss Made” at 6 o’clock but more prominent and relevant to its identity is the “New York” text under the brand’s name at 12 o’clock. I appreciate that Tiffany & Co. are not trying to run away from their distinctly American heritage and also properly convey a sanguine attitude that manages to be elegant and whimsical at once. It’s a quirky watch, a piece that I would expect to find on the wrist of someone like the author Tom Wolfe or some modern day Jay Gatsby.
The $12,000 price for the East West Automatic in gold is bound to make some readers flinch. This is especially true when you realize that the East West isn’t exactly versatile but when compared to the most similar Cartier Tank, the rose gold Anglaise, it’s both less expensive and significantly larger. Yes, the movement isn’t on par for the most part, but it’s also more fun and less patrician than the Cartier. And while it’s not a direct comparison for this gold model, the Hermes Cape Cod watch (again, keep in mind it features the TGM manufacture movement) in steel is $6,200 while the steel East West Automatic is $4,750. Yes, the movements are not on par but that’s a significant price gap.
The above comparisons are meant to serve as context with other relatively similar offerings from fashion/jewelry brands but this is a watch that one gets because they fell in love with the design, brand identity, and unique style and feel that says something about who they are. If you love the watch, can afford the price of $12,000 and aren’t nit-picky about the movement, then I wholeheartedly suggest acquiring it. tiffany.com
Necessary Data
>Brand: Tiffany & Co.
>Model: East West Automatic in Rose Gold
>Price: $12,000
>Size: 46.5mm tall X 27mm wide
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: A collector who doesn’t have an issue with (or care about) the admittedly high price and is fond of the unique design and brand style.
>Best characteristic of watch: Quirky but elegant dial matched with a truly unique identity.
>Worst characteristic of watch: It’s a lot of money for a watch that may not use a movement on par with competitors. Perhaps too much money for a watch that you really need to be in the mood to wear.