The Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat is back for its final curtain call, this time in a blacked-out edition the brand is calling “Back to Black.” After debuting in 2021 with a 2022 follow-up (both of which you should check out as a foundation to this release), it’s been a short ride for the out-of-this-world model from Urwerk’s Special Project line, which sees the brand step away from its trademark wandering hour displays to dabble in other futuristic designs. To be clear, the Back to Black edition is just a new rendition, rather than a new watch entirely. That said, it still impresses and is worth a quick look as the Aggregat model line concludes.
The Aggregat line is defined as much by its case as it is by its novel method of displaying the time. At 42mm wide and 51mm from end to end, the UR-112’s 16mm-thick black DLC-coated (that’s the big change) titanium case is mitigated by its curved silhouette and the rounded edges of the case. The curvature is inspired by the dramatic lines of the Bugatti Atlantic Type 57, though clearly, the Aggregat takes a modern approach to the Art Deco design of that classic automobile. The case has a blend of sandblasting, bead blasting, and satin brushing that lend softness to the aggressively styled design. Creating a striking contrast against the rest of the smooth case is a vented steel bonnet on the top, which can be opened by pushing the side tabs. Underneath hides a power reserve on the left, and on the right, a digital running seconds wheel in silicon with a red aluminum bridge. The oversized crown on the right side of the watch features pronounced ridging for presumably easy grip, while the case achieves 30m of water resistance. The watch is completed with a rugged textile strap (in black, of course), secured to a unique T-bar lug set that emerges from the central spine.
It’s that spine that contains the titanium drive shaft that connects the rear-situated movement to the display at the front. Housed in sapphire cylinders, the time is displayed digitally with jumping hours and trailing minutes. The displays themselves are made up of aluminum satellite prisms mounted to a planetary gearing system that ensures they rotate on their axes to always be facing the wearer. The numerals are fully lumed for a rather engaging display at night. If you expected anything even approaching traditional from Urwerk, you’ve either been looking at the brand’s first few models (it once made a round watch!) or you haven’t been paying attention — this display is classic Urwerk, another spacy take on telling the time.
The movement behind the UR-112 is the Urwerk UR-13.01, an automatic winding in-house caliber. The movement is confined to the back 2/3 of the watch and has 66 jewels, with a 66-hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 vph. True to form, Urwerk doesn’t put the movement on display, instead maintaining an air of mystery around the watch’s inner workings. As enigmatic as a UFO, perhaps, and just as inscrutable.
Here’s the most interesting thing about the Urwerk UR-112: the “Mark 1” at the rear of the spine. Even though the brand asserts this is the final model of the Aggregat line, my hope is that the “Mark 1” engraving is indicative of things to come. Perhaps the brand will wrap up this line and use it as the foundation for something even bolder. In the meantime, if you’ve got the funds, you can snag the Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat Back to Black is priced at CHF 280,000 and limited to 25 pieces. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.