At SIHH 2016, Vacheron Constantin is launching some new watches in their Patrimony line, including a limited edition perpetual calendar. In fact, it’s a limited edition Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Collection Excellence Platine watch made with a platinum dial and case. Platinum is a bit of a common theme this year at SIHH, and it’s not a surprise to see Vacheron Constantin release this handsome piece.
The platinum 950 case is elegant, with the sand-blasted dial being joined with 18k white gold hands. The dimensions are pretty perfect, in my opinion, at 41mm wide and 8.9mm thick – just the right size for a watch such as this. With a piece that doesn’t scream wealth (well, other than being a VC) with yellow or rose gold and diamonds, you want something that can evade pesky questioning by slipping under a sleeve easily.
The Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Collection Excellence Platine watch features the Caliber 1120 QP which is an automatic movement that runs at a demure 2.75 Hz and has 40 hours of power reserve. The movement powers a day-of-the-week dial at 9 o’clock, a moon phase at 6 o’clock, date dial at 3 o’clock, and finally a a month and leap year in a 48-month dial at 12 o’clock. You won’t have to set the calendar until March 1st, 2100. I doubt my arthritic hands at the age of 112 would be too excited about dealing with a watch by then, anyway.
As you would expect from a watch of this caliber, the perpetual calendar accounts for leap year so there is no need to set the calendar anytime a month with less than 31 days passes. It takes into account those shorter months of the leap year cycle as well as the quadrennial occurrence of February 29th (you can also call that Leap day).
What you have to love about a watch like this is the attention to detail. The circular “pearl” minute markers, sand blasted dial, the 18k white gold applied hands, and blued-steel calendar pointers are really incredibly well done. It feels almost obvious to even point out that the Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Collection Excellence Platine watch has such wonderful touches, but they really do all add up and make a whole that’s much greater than the sum of its parts. The best touch, however, is the moon phase dial at 6 o’clock. It’s white gold with blue galvanic treatment and is something I could stare at for hours if it were on my wrist. If you’re absent-minded enough to take this watch underwater, it has 30 meters of water resistance. And in case you forget what the watch is made of, there’s a handy little “Pt950” between 4 and 5 o’clock.
The Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Collection Excellence Platine watch comes on a blue alligator strap with “950 platinum threads” and a platinum buckle. Plus, if you’re someone who just needs some kind of special treatment, Vacheron Constantin presents the watch in a watch winder along with a corrector pen. Price is $110,700. vacheron-constantin.com