back to top

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch is one of the first perpetual calendar timepieces that really captivated me because of its design and technical grace. This is the watch that really launched the modern brand as we know it, and it took the company, I believe, at least a year after the watch was debuted to finally release it. I first wrote about the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar back in 2010, being originally debuted in 2006, and now, almost a decade later, the watch still feels good-looking and relevant. I’ve finally spent some time with the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar for a full review.

In reviewing the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch, it is impossible to fully describe each watch in the collection. H. Moser & Cie. produced a series of versions in various case materials and with a range of dials. Here, we have the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch in 18k rose gold with a black dial – but I’ve also included some images of the black-colored titanium case model with rose gold hands and hour markers. Compare it to the recently released 18k white gold H. Moser & Cie Edeavour Perpetual Calendar version with their “funky blue” (yes, that is the official name) dial here.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The first thing that really became apparent to me about what makes the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch special is the movement. When you purchase a timepiece like this, what you are mostly investing in is the movement. The in-house made caliber HMC 341 is a fantastic little machine with some interesting features and what really sold me was something so simple – power reserve.

Yes, there is a power reserve indicator on the dial, and I find them extremely useful (if not downright necessary) on watches that are manually wound. What I am talking about, however, is the length of the power reserve, which totals about seven days. That is one full week of power reserve. Why was this important to me? Because I don’t wear the same watch all the time and it was fantastic to leave the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar for a few days and come back to find that the power reserve indicator hand hadn’t even dipped below the halfway mark.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

I don’t typically wear a lot of longer power reserve mechanical watches, but when I do, boy do I feel the appeal. Most mechanical watches – especially automatics – have about two full days of power reserve. Adding an additional day for 72 hours of power reserve is nice, but when you start having watches with five or more days of power reserve, to you really begin to appreciate the appeal. Adding more power reserve to a watch movement isn’t as simple as including a larger mainspring barrel. There are issues like torque curves to deal with, and offering long power reserves is always a delicate balance of mixing movement frequency with the type of barrel system used.

Advertisement

Chopard, for example, uses four barrels (2 x 2 paired barrels) for their Quattro system to get eight days of power reserve, and the 50 days of power reserve in the Hublot LaFerrari comes from 11 stacked mainspring barrels. H. Moser & Cie gets away with seven days of power reserve with a double barrel of paired springs and a movement with a steady operating frequency of 18,000 bph. That’s a “slower” movement compared to the 28,800 bph (beats per hour) of most “standard” mechanical movements, but I found the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar to be pretty accurate. H. Moser & Cie even uses a fancy “Original Straumann Hairspring” with a Breguet overcoil in the regulation system to further maintain accuracy over time.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

While the H. Moser & Cie caliber HMC 341 is a traditionally flat movement, a curved sapphire crystal over the back of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar’s case gives it a rounded look. By the way, the crystal is curved in the interest of case wearing ergonomics. More so, the crystal causes light to play off the movement surface in a unique way, so looking at the movement in this H. Moser & Cie watch is going to be a unique experience among most timepieces you’ve probably played with.

Finishing on the HMC 341 is pretty good, and I like details like the gold chatons around the large-sized synthetic ruby jewels. The movement surface as seen through the rear of the case is also where the leap year indicator for the perpetual calendar complication is located. I particularly like this choice of placement since this is a necessary element of a perpetual calendar, but not something that you need to look at on a regular basis. In fact, most other perpetual calendar watches go to some lengths to “hide” the leap year indicator so that it isn’t obtrusive to the overall design. Placing this indicator on the back of the watch is just one of the many little things that feels quite sensible about H. Moser & Cie.’s design sense.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Over on the dial-side of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar is where things get a bit more interesting. I liked calling the watch the “stealth perpetual calendar” because very few people knew that the watch even had this complication. One of the best features of the dial design is that it simply doesn’t look like a busy perpetual calendar watch. At a glance, you would be forgiven for believing that the dial only had the time with subsidiary seconds, date window, and power reserve indicator.

Actually, the dial of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch has one more hand, which is a small arrow-style indicator in the center of the dial with the hour and minute hands. This is the month indicator and simply uses the hour marker track to indicate the month. 1 o’clock is January, 2 o’clock is February, and so forth. It amazes me how often people simply did not understand this, as the concept of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar feels so simple to me. No, the HMC 341 movement doesn’t offer things like the day of the week, but in terms of offering an ultra-minimalist perpetual calendar display, the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar is a serious winner. There are other impressive elements about the watch movement as well, including the ability to change the date both backwards and forwards! And if you are familiar with setting perpetual calendar watches, that is sort of a big deal. I loved this feature and also appreciated H. Moser & Cie’s “flash calendar” which instantly jumps the date disc at midnight.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

On the wrist, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch is 40.8mm wide and 11.1mm thick. For me, that is a really nice dress watch size, and I found it to be very comfortable looking even with short sleeves (I very rarely wear long sleeves). I mention this because a lot of the time, smaller watches look extremely petite if you aren’t wearing long sleeves. For this reason, in colder cities with a more business environment, people wear smaller watches to go with long sleeves and in warmer places like Los Angeles and Miami where it’s more of a “leisure culture,” you have mostly short sleeves people wear larger watches.

Attached to the case of each H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch is a nicely fitted alligator strap of various colors, and I like how the end of the strap matches the curve of the case. At prices like this, you should expect such details. The watch gets high marks for comfort as well as style – look closely at the case and you’ll see a range of interesting curves and lines which are much more interesting than the standard round-shaped watch case.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

While the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch is a stellar timepiece on most levels, I do find that some versions have legibility issues. In theory, the dial design of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar is clean and super easy to read, but H. Moser & Cie uses some shiny surfaces and a domed sapphire crystal whose particular shape and AR-coating simply lend themselves to too much light reflection. More so, the polished hands and hour markers can easily get lost on the dial in various lighting situations. My hope is that the pictures I took of the M. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar cast it in a flattering light, but it can certainly benefit from some texture and finishing refinements to ensure better legibility.

This latter issue I am referring to is by no means contained to brands like H. Moser & Cie. Proper dial legibility (for a number of reasons) is the most difficult thing to get right on many of today’s watches and is something that requires a huge amount of successful finessing with suppliers. While H. Moser & Cie produces their own movements, elements like dials and hands are more than likely purchased from suppliers. This can make matching all the elements and getting a final product that the brand wants difficult. On other version of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar this is less of an issue, but I think that with just a bit more effort, the brand can refine the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch collection to be truly flawless. Even so, it is a great timepiece collection with prices that, in my opinion, are certainly fair. Price for this reference 1341-0102 H. Moser  & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch in 18k rose gold is $60,000, and the full price list of the current Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watches is below. h-moser.com

– Rose gold, argenté dial 1341-0103 $60,000
– Rose gold, black dial 1341-0102 $60,000
– Rose gold, fumé dial 1341-0107 $60,000
– Platinum, ardoise dial 1341-0300 $70,000
– Golden Edition,gold fumé dial 1341-0101 $110,000
– Black Edition, matte black dial 1341-0500 $52,000
– White gold, argenté dial 1341-0204 $60,000
– White gold, fumé dial 1341-0205 $60,000
– Palladium, blue fumé dial 1341-0601 $54,000

Necessary Data
>Brand: H. Moser & Cie.
>Model: Endeavour Perpetual Calendar
>Price: $60,000 (as tested)
>Size: 40.8mm
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Looking for a classy, yet complicated dress watch from a cool brand that still gets a nod from watch snobs.
>Best characteristic of watch: Wonderfully laid out perpetual calendar display and fantastic movement.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Overly reflective sapphire crystal and shiny dial elements which inhibit optimal legibility.

Explore

Comments

Disqus Debug thread_id: 3991168096

  • DG Cayse

    A truly elegant timepiece.

    (every time I read the word ‘funky’ I have to cue-up Tone L?c)

  • sgvasquezr

    Clean simple and near perfect.
    That price is quite an obstacle though.

  • I so want one of these! Thanks for this review!

  • Dezianjo

    One of my absolute favorites. My only issue is the styling/markings of the power reseve indicator. It is hard to read, deviates from the overall design and breaks the harmony of the dial. Could be easily corrected with a a new design using metallic/gold markers on the scale. Otherwise I love the watch.

  • thornwood36

    Nothing I don’t like about this timepiece.

  • I would prefer a centrally mounted seconds hand to the subsidiary dial, but other than that the watch is a real tour de force. The black model is neat as well, but I think that look steals away a bit of the grace this watch carries.

  • frustin

    Absolutely beautiful…I just knew it was going to be too much for me 🙁 really lovely timepiece that.

    Thanks for the review.

  • Itai

    A clean, simple and elegant perpetual! Very nice!

  • lewblock

    Great article and an even greater watch.

    Just one comment/question: is there ANY black dialed watch with gold hands that is super legible? Not without lume on the hands, which would ruin this watch.

    I think the buyer of this watch know how legible it will be, and they would choose a light dial to increase that.

  • I_G

    I’ve shorted my keyboard by drooling.

  • MarkOs

    Great watch, I love that you have it tagged as “Watches over $500”
    I think I can budget over $500 for my next watch but don’t think I will be able to reach $60k

  • Fraser Petrick

    Beautiful watch, and of course I’d love to have one. However, if I’m paying $60000, and if I’m giving up minute markers, might I at least have 3, 6 and 9 o’clock markers? Fussy of me I know. The idle rich, you know.

  • thornwood36

    Ive got this funny thing about watches. If the watch is round , its a round date window, if its square or rectangle , then  a square window. and being a leftie I would love the winder to be on the left. I wear my watch quite low on my wrist and have had to get stems replaced in the past.

  • SwissMatic

    Not a bad price for such an elegant perpetual calendar. I really like the big honkin’ rubies and movement side leap-year indicator. Nicely done!

  • SantiagoT

    I love this watch (all the versions). Only one flaw, as I said before: do you really need to write Up an Down? In Arial? No following the curve of the case but that of a non-existent subdial?

  • WillyChu

    How is the watch able to have such a large date? I don’t think 31 numbers of that size would fit around a single date wheel (if so, why do all other watches have such small dates?) . I wonder, if there are two date wheels. One would have 1 – 15 plus a empty window, a second dial beneath this would have 16 – 31. After the 15th, the open slot would move into place, exposing the date wheel underneath.

  • François Cantinotti

    Beautiful i love it i love it h moser&cie

  • Josefina Patiño Núñez

    Elegante !!

  • Shawnnny

    That is beautiful in every way! I’d love to see the black movement inside the gold case.

  • bichondaddy

    I_G I had a paper towel handy when I started reading the article…as I knew I was going to have the same problem!!  LOL

  • SantiagoT

    WillyChu That’s exactly how it is.

  • bichondaddy

    Fantastic review and great video Ariel!!!  What a beautiful watch!!  I love the movement…man…talk about a beautiful creation!  Even at just a tad over 40 mm’s…I imagine the watch wore much larger…since there is no bezel to speak of….which is a good thing when you are a big guy wearing a smaller watch.  ( Yes…on my 8.75″ wrist…a 40 mm watch is a small watch! )  

    Again…thank you for the excellent review and video Ariel!!

  • bichondaddy

    DG Cayse I always think of KC and The Sunshine Band……Play that Funky Music….!!!  LOL

  • OngWeisheng

    Best looking perpetual calendar out there! Clean simple dial, useful big date, ingenuous way of indicating the months and indication of the leap year at the back.
    Only fault I find is that it doesn’t indicate the day if the week, which I find should be a standard any type of annual calendar watch, let alone a perpetual calendar watch.
    Still, would get this in a heartbeat if I could.

  • iamcalledryan

    Been in love with these guys since I stumbled upon one in a store in Switzerland. The extent to which they are able to simplify the execution of a perpetual calendar is simply fantastic. I love flashy watches, avant guarde watches, but the understated complication is my sweet spot.

  • iamcalledryan

    Agreed.

  • joblow

    Nice looking watch. Seems a bit pricey.

  • MarkOs Watches over $500….that would be virtually EVERY watch these days (even G-Shock has $900++ models now!).
    Time to change the category to “Watches over $5,000”

  • WillyChu

    SantiagoT WillyChu Nifty.  Seems superior than A. Lange, which has the two digits on different levels requiring a full frame around it to try to hide this; and better than Glashuette, which has a curved gap between the two date digits.
    Any other watches use this method?

  • SantiagoT

    WillyChu SantiagoT Not that I know of, no. To avoid the problem of seeing the two discs I know that Girard-Perregaux used a double sapphire disc system in which one of them is transparent; that way you cannot distinguish the edge..

    But I haven’t seen it at Baselworld so I can’t say if it is really so or not.

    This is the watch: http://ow.ly/LyJP2

  • MikeMargolis

    WillyChu That is exactly how it works.

    Have a look here:

    https://instagram.com/p/02zU8aNsef/?taken-by=spanishrob

    By the way, are you the William Chu from Chicago I bought an IWC Ingenieur from like 15 years ago? If so, you sir, are a gentleman and an honest businessman,

  • bnabod

    “Finishing on the HMC 341 is pretty good”……..Say what????????????

  • Galvan

    Beautiful Masterpiece!!  price a little bit high, but other than that the watch is beautiful and elegant.
    cheers!!

  • WillyChu

    MikeMargolis WillyChu No, that wasn’t me. 
    Hey, thanks for the great photo link.  It must be patented.  I wish they would license the design to other manufacturers.  For symmetry, I like the date display (if any at all) to be at the 6 o’clock position. With its size, this mechanism would be perfect for that.
    Also, Moser needs to change the plain, ugly font they use to something more fitting their elegant watch face and logo.  Maybe a serif font.  At least the date wheel color matches the dial (I hate that when it doesn’t).

  • MikeMargolis

    WillyChu We (I am the agent for Moser in North America) do make the Endeavour Big Date with the date at 6, but it’s not a perpetual calendar..

    It is also a double barrel seven day power reserve manual wind with the flash calendar.

    http://www.h-moser.com/en/collection/endeavour-big-date-1342-0101-argente

  • I_G

    SantiagoT Arial Adams? 😀 Are you sure it’s not Helvetica? They are Swiss 😀

  • WillyChu

    That is nice.  Not to belabor the point, I still think on the black dial version the font and stark white lettering is jarring.  Wouldn’t it be awesome, if the numbers were applied thin rose gold with a font width that matched the elegant 3, 9, 12 batons?  Much more harmonious.

  • Moser watches are magnificent and need to be seen and touched to fully
    appreciate their beauty. The movement is simply a work of art. No photos
    can do justice to the Fume dials that are offered. And, I am
    particularity honored, because were given permission to showcase the beautiful Moser
    Crest, as a cufflink we made to honor the company and their bold vision of excellence.
    Bazpersaud.com

  • Such an elegantly designed dial, with minimal elements, like the month arrow, an ornate signature logo… and unrefined capitalized UP and DOWN lettering!  Please, send it back to engineering and put the power reserve in the back, lest Heinrich roll in his coffin.

  • Seth Lim

    finally something affordable

  • Drop files here or
    Accepted file types: jpg, png.