October 27, 2022
by Ariel Adams
Available in nearly 10 different variations between case materials and dial styles, the Breguet Classique Calendrier 7337 watch collection originally debuted back in 2020. Today, I go hands-on with an 18k white-gold version known as the reference 7337BB/12/9VU Breguet Classique Calendrier. It features a 39mm-wide Breguet Classique style case that has simple, purposeful lugs, a flat shape, and a coined edge around the round case. While it is not “ultra” thin, the Breguet Classique 7337 would nonetheless be considered thin given its slim visual profile and 9.95mm-thick dimensions.
The major distinguishing feature of this watch is to present a novel yet classically inspired (very Breguet) dial that plays with balanced asymmetry. We find much of this in the original Breguet pocket watches from the late 18th century into the early 19th century. The Breguet 7337 dial begins with a machine guilloche-engraved face that has an off-centered dial that sits just below the center. The upper area of the face is used for day and date calendar windows that flank a traditional-style moon phase indicator at the 12 o’clock position on the case. Here, the moon is presented with a realistic texture and in silver tone against a blue sky. Other versions of the Breguet 7337 might have slightly different moon displays, such as one in yellow with a face on it. All versions of the Breguet 7337 feature beautifully engraved dials that are done with Breguet precision and that also combined a few different engraving textures for a maximal beautification effect. More so, this silver-dialed watch has a cousin also in 18k white gold that has a blue-plated engraved dial with silver accents that is also quite handsome (albeit not quite as classic as this version).
Just to play with tradition and to create a little bit of visual angst, the subsidiary seconds dial on the main face is set to the side. It is a flirtatious design move and helps give this otherwise conservative face a bit of a playful twist. The 39mm-wide case isn’t a sports watch (is water resistant to just 30 meters), and the dial and caseback are covered with sapphire crystals. Attached to the case is a beautiful blue alligator strap on a Breguet “B” deployant clasp.
Fans of reliable and easy-to-operate movements will like the in-house Breguet caliber 502.3 QSE1. Not only is it an automatic movement (with a guilloche-engraved rotor), but it also has a silicon balance spring to maximize efficiency and accuracy. The movement operates at 3Hz (21,600 bph) and has a power reserve of 45 hours. Elegantly decorated, as well, the 502.3 QSE1 automatic movement is comprised of 236 parts. Small pushers on the case are used to adjust the calendar and moon phase information.
Dial legibility is excellent and, after something like 300 years, these Breguet-style dials with Roman numerals against silver with blued-steel pomme hands continue to compete with anything modern. The hands are all flame-blued by hand, and the overall dial detail is excellent. Note that the number on the dial adjacent to the Breguet name is not the reference number of the watch but a special serial number Breguet includes with each timepiece in order to prevent replicas from being produced. This is a feature of Breguet watches going back to the days of the brand’s founder.
I could easily live with a dress watch like this as a semi-formal daily wear. In addition to being timeless, there is more fashionable versatility to a design like this than you might not first expect. Even wearing a Classique watch like this with jeans is not out of the question. If you really want to step it up, Breguet offers an 18k white or 18k rose gold matching bracelet that fits this watch. Breguet doesn’t otherwise embellish the Classique Calendrier 7337 with too much storytelling, nor does the brand link this back to a specific historic object, even though I know I’ve seen classic pocket watches with similar dial themes. The overall combination of modern size, quirky asymmetrical dial, convenient movement, and timeless beauty make this Breguet Classique Calendrier watch collection a winner. It isn’t cheap, though. Price for this Breguet reference 7337BB/12/9VU is $43,000 USD. Learn more at the Breguet website here.