With the popularity of integrated bracelet sports watches showing no signs of waning, Bell & Ross adds another variant to its BR 05 collection in the form of a two-tone chronograph; 18k rose gold provides color to the bezel and bracelet links as well as dial accents and hands, while brushed and polished stainless steel make up the case and outer links. The grey in the model name comes from the ruthenium coating on the dial’s sunburst finish.
The BR 05 three-hand models were released in 2019, including skeleton dial models. Bell & Ross then followed up with GMT, and chronograph variants shortly after. The BR05 cases have been constructed of more traditional materials, while the BR X5 is where the brand has combined this style with materials such as carbon fiber and solid lume. This is not the first two-tone BR 05 model, but it is the first to be part of the standard catalog (in 2022 the brand released a model with a Havana-colored dial associated with the world of fine cigars called the Chrono Edición Limitada).
Its square shape, large numerals, and four bezel screws retain a strong Bell & Ross brand identity. Compared to other models in the catalog, however, the BR 05 greatly downplays the tactical, instrument look for which the brand is synonymous. Bell & Ross says it is intended for “urban explorers,” and its versatile design does lend it to fit in in a wider variety of environments. A black rubber strap is available for sportier customers, while a two-tone bracelet gives it a dressier, more polished look. The two options can be swapped quickly without tools thanks to a quick-release mechanism.
The case measurements come in at 42mm wide x 14.25mm thick. Water resistance of 100m is aided by a screw-down crown. A sapphire crystal with AR coating protects the dial. White-colored and green-glowing Super-LumiNova fills the hands and indices. In our previous hands-on review of the green dial version, we noted that the BR 05 chrono feels top-heavy. I can only assume that heavier rose gold will add to this feeling. This is not a watch for someone looking for a featherweight, or to blend in, however, so it might not bother potential customers.
The automatic chronograph movement powering the BR 05 Chrono is BR-CAL.326 (likely a Sellita SW-510-based caliber). A sapphire caseback provides a view of its custom 360° rotor, and cam-operated chronograph movement operates at 28,800 vph and provides a 60-hour power reserve. A central counter indicates elapsed seconds, while minutes are displayed in the 3 o’clock subdial. Running seconds are shown at 9. Mike noted that the pusher operation is crisp and can be operated from almost any angle, with any finger.
In typical Bell & Ross fashion, the date is displayed in a small round window at 4:30 (with the text correctly oriented). While controversial, the intended buyers for this watch will likely prefer a date, and it’s the best way to add it without interrupting the dial layout.
The BR 05 design takes some inspiration from watches of the 1970s. Thus the two-tone motif works well here, albeit with modernized tones to match its updated design. Adding precious metals has increased the price, however. The Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Grey Steel & Gold is priced at $9,700 USD on rubber and $14,100 USD on the steel and gold bracelet, making it $3,500 and $7,400 more than the all-steel strap and bracelet models. While watches from other brands with a similar movement can be purchased for less, Bell & Ross offers distinctive and well-thought-out designs, which are difficult to assign a price to (and require hiring talented designers). For more information, please visit the brand’s website.
