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Tiffany & Co. Square Watch

Tiffany & Co. Square Watch Watch Releases

The return of Tiffany & Co. to the world of mechanical men’s watches after decades of being known primarily for jewelry happened in 2015 with the debut of the Tiffany CT60 collection. Now, a short couple of years later, Tiffany releases a totally new watch with, we are told, an “in-house” movement for 2017. Based on a 1920s model from the brand’s archives and descriptively called the Tiffany & Co. Square watch, this is a very formal way to celebrate the company’s 180 years since Charles Lewis Tiffany opened his store on Lower Broadway in New York in 1837.

Tiffany & Co. Square Watch Watch Releases

The Tiffany & Co. Square watch is 27mm wide in 18k yellow gold with short lugs that will help give it a barely rectangular profile on the wrist. Remember that square and rectangular watches wear a bit larger than round watches with the same width measurements. Such case shapes are notoriously hard to get right, but in my opinion, keeping it thin is key, and the 6.9mm case width will likely help its wearability a lot. The case’s sloping sides are polished in contrast to the brushed case sides, similar to the treatment of the brand’s other current quadrangular men’s watch, Tiffany & Co. East West Automatic (reviewed here). The Tiffany & Co. Square watch’s 50m of water resistance is also welcome when so many “formal watches” only manage the bare minimum of 30m.

Tiffany & Co. Square Watch Watch Releases

Cathedral hands, classic-looking Arabic numeral hour markers, the choice of a yellow “aged” color for the Super-LumiNova, small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, and the outer railroad-style minute track all serve to make the Tiffany & Co. Square watch a pretty retro tribute to many early wristwatches – such as the Cartier Tank, another square watch celebrating big birthdays this year (Tank is 100 years old and Cartier is 170). Tiffany has plenty of men’s watches in its history to draw upon for either more vintage rereleases, as are always so popular, or modern reinterpretations. The Streamerica or even the Atlas watch seem like good candidates.

Tiffany & Co. Square Watch Watch Releases

Tiffany calls the hand-wound movement inside “in-house,” though it appears very similarly laid out to the ETA 7001. One major difference, of course, is that it is square, and a view of it fills out the entire sapphire crystal display caseback (sapphire up front too, naturally) of the Tiffany & Co. Square watch. It’s an attractive view, for sure, with a traditional finishing style appropriate for the watch’s overall buttoned-up personality. No word yet on its frequency, but the simple time-only movement has 17 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve.

Tiffany & Co. Square Watch Watch Releases

Recent Tiffany & Co. watches have used sourced movements, but the proudly New York-based company also has a long history of producing watches in Switzerland – they first opened a large watchmaking facility in Geneva in 1874 – and they recently again invested in watchmaking with Swiss manufacturing facilities. Tiffany & Co. watches are not cheap to begin with but, based on the 7001 or not, a push for “more in-house” means they are aiming more upmarket and for more enthusiast recognition. Other well-known jewelry makers have very successfully moved into men’s mechanical watches and even haute horology, so there are strong precedents for Tiffany to learn from.

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But one step at a time. For now, their new Square watch is only available in 18k gold and as a limited run. The reference 61522514 Tiffany & Co. Square watch is limited to 180 pieces for the brand’s 180th birthday, and will have a price of $17,000 USD. It will be available at Tiffany & Co. stores from November 2017. tiffany.com

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  • Word Merchant

    For this sort of money I could and would get a far nicer Reverso.

    • Berndt Norten

      I love Archie’s

      • IG

        Archie have a Reverso? LEGEND.

        • Berndt Norten

          He does. I think it’s his longest-owned watch

          • Moonraker

            Bought by his wife. Or: took funds from his wife, model picked out and bought by him.
            For his 40th birthday. Or: bought sometime in his 38th year for his 40th birthday.

          • Berndt Norten

            I want that watch. The pedigree! And I could always sell it on Tom’sWatches. Tom (actually he is Jerry) runs the site, specializing in beaten up rusty JLCs.

          • Moonraker

            I like the Reverso Day Date (I swear that’s what it’s called) and the Reverso Memory. Even the Reverso Gran Sport Chrono Retrograde. I’ll have to check out Tom or Jerry’s.

    • Berndt Norten

      Exactly

    • Dan Finch

      Tiffany’s going for an older era.,,

  • I like it! Even though the numbers where filled by a blind man with a 4 inch paintbrush but still.

  • Sheez Gagoo

    This is the first decent watch from Tiffany I’ve ever seen.But the price is so
    incredibly ridiculous, I almost peed my pants from laughin. I don’t even want to start how many other/better watches you can get for the price. A peseux, I have to admit, became rare in recent years, altough it’s quite a pedestrian movement and it was in a lot of cheaper watches. This would be a nice $7000-9000 watch. But 18 000? No way. Maybe build for hardcore-New-Yorkers.

  • Phil leavell

    I’m a fan of Square watches don’t know why. But my question to this one is is this the watch Tiffany & Swatch group got in a big lawsuit over and is it produced by Swatch for Tiffany or did that deal totally blow up and somebody else built this one for them ?

    • Sheez Gagoo

      They have their own atelier in Ticino. Where the rent is low and the workforce comes over the border from Italy. Also for a very low salary compared to Swiss wages.

      • Phil leavell

        Thanks he gave me something to look into later I appreciate it.
        And you are definitely more generous with the price you pay for the watch that I don’t think I go over 4500

        • Sheez Gagoo

          Well, it’s gold. I calculated +20% for the Swiss Made, +100% for the gold. 15very generous % for the name.

          • Phil leavell

            Truly more generous than I, so I shall bet you a dollar or a donut the richest man in Switzerland owns a watch company

          • Sheez Gagoo

            No, the richest man in Switzerland is the founder of IKEA.

          • Phil leavell

            Damn I owe you a dollar or donut I thought Johann Rupert would be one of the richest Swiss guys, now all I have to do is figure out how to get you your favorite donut LOL

          • Sheez Gagoo

            Johann Rupert lives in Johannesburg/South Africa.

          • Phil leavell

            Okay okay two Donuts
            And I’m going for a nap because I really thought the guy that owned richemont lived in Switzerland. And so before I go for my nap I will look into a mirror to see a dummy

          • Berndt Norten

            They’re dummies, dummy?

          • Sheez Gagoo

            Don’t be so rude to yourself.

          • Sheez Gagoo

            The richest watchrelated guys in Switzerland are the Wertheim brothers (Chanel).

          • Sheez Gagoo

            My favourite donut is the classic McDonalds sugardonut. Not fancy, but two dollars here.

          • Phil leavell

            Now I truly feel shunned because McDonald’s in my area doesn’t even have Donuts oh the shame of it all

        • Berndt Norten

          Ah give me something to believe in…..

          • Phil leavell

            The whole truth and nothing but the truth.
            Women fart !

          • Guillermo Grodiño

            One thing’s for sure: Love Stinks

          • Phil leavell

            You should never argue with a crazy mind You Oughta Know by now

          • Guillermo Grodiño

            You Oughta Know, I will not go down with you to a theatre.

          • Phil leavell

            That’s great because I wouldn’t do it trip to Atlantis with you I’m morris set in my ways
            LOL catcha later got to crash for a while again

          • Berndt Norten

            Yeah yeah

    • Berndt Norten

      It’s hip to be square

      • Guillermo Grodiño

        I want a new blog, one that does what it should
        One that won’t make me feel too bad
        One that won’t make me feel too good

        I want a new blog, one with some clout
        One that won’t make me talk too much
        Or make my face break out

        Just kidding, AA!

        • Berndt Norten

          One that won’t make me nervous
          Thinking of misaligned screws
          One where the writers never ever
          Say ‘when it comes to’

          • Guillermo Grodiño

            It’s a workhorse.
            It’s a work horse, bay bay.

  • Seems like a nice classic, retro style, but really, 27mm at $18,000?

    Was it a one-off made specifically for Peter Dinklage?

    • Moonraker

      You littleist bastard! I’d punch you in the back of the knee if I could reach that high!

  • Moonraker

    Part of me kinda wants to see no subseconds and a little power reserve on the back.

    • IG

      Which part of you?

      • Moonraker

        Yes.
        There.
        Wait, what? Sorry, I’m on the phone. One sec.

  • IG

    Solid dial, nice movement, too small.

  • Marius

    Cartier Tank Louis Cartier.
    Inimitable and iconic style, great brand name, ultra-thin Piaget movement.
    Yours for around $14,000, brand new from the Cartier boutique.
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/85b846d4e58436de712aa5305a071560d045f841375ab66bdc69cf4deb0c505c.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/aad72914abb91098c8d9d32eb3a007f4c0db77179c76d5bad136ced1e1547e1f.jpg
    Is there a reason why anyone would pay $4,000 MORE for the ugly Tiffany’s?

    • Berndt Norten

      Perhaps because they failed to do their homework and read a laudatory review on the world’s most popular watch website, one that rarely makes price comparisons

  • simon

    Hilarious. Tiffany is trying to make the same profit margin in gold watches, as they do in their silver jewelry. Good luck with that. Assuming they did develop this movement “in-house”…you don’t make back the R&D investment in 1-2 years. This company is so frustrating. They actually come out with decent stuff, and completely screw it up with their pricing. I am not saying to give it away, but how about developing a following and stealing clients from Cartier or Bvlgari.

    • egznyc

      I have some other issues with this watch, even though I do like the overall aesthetic, but I have serious misgivings about potentially misleading claims about “in-house.” Even though I’m not that hung up on getting “in-house,” personally.

  • Flávio Maia

    Beautiful watch, but too expensive.

  • Yan Fin

    I think lume clashes with otherwise ‘heritage’ dial. Movement is really antiqued and could spark some interest not later than 70 years ago. Size is small even by ladies standards. Price? Well, it’s Tiffany’s funeral, sorry, birthday…

  • SuperStrapper

    The perfect gift for an oligarch to give his midget daughter for graduating high school.

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Love the look. Far far too small for a mans wrist,

  • JosephWelke

    Lovely watch. I like everything about it, including size, except for two things:

    1. Vintage lume. This is supposedly going to be an heirloom, so why not give it normal lume and allow it to achieve the “vintage” look the old-fashioned way? Say, anyone have any idea what this vintaged lume will look like, itself, in 70 years’ time? Black maybe?

    2. The price is absurdly optimistic. I doubt Tiffany has suddenly acquired movement-making chops overnight, so who’s is this, really?

  • BNABOD

    But it is so small and so pricey…….

  • egznyc

    I don’t often see watches that I’d consider too small but this one is a tad too small for my tastes. I like the look otherwise quite a bit, but as everyone has said, the price is rather aspirational. Also not interested in the Tiffany’s branding. Always makes me think of women’s overpriced jewelry.

  • Richard carroll

    I love it. I think the size is perfectly appropriate for the style, which it has in buckets. Expensive? Sure. But as $18K is only twice as out of my price range as $10K is it’s pretty academic.

  • Marius

    Let`s see what square watch the Pontiff AC3 wears. Yup, it`s definitely not a Tiffany`s, but a beautiful Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso. In fact, our mentor and role model AC3 clearly stated that Tiffany`s watches are microwaved garbage. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/ff2250a28a83180babf0249a7b1c1b4e9dbc14379e2296afb8aff7cecfef8057.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/48ce54981f34baf5e7d9b92141afe4171b4955620d3c325e3bac0912232bcf42.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/5b045f2185b5daefee264c4c6263e37a41925022436f578a16162765361c33e7.jpg

    • egznyc

      Now really, Marius – I think many of us consider you to be our mentor, and not this Archie bloke.

    • Phil leavell

      Call nine-one-one Marius, has gone Kravitz

  • A_watches

    just wanted to log in and say this is an utterly boring watch

  • Ulysses31

    I love the chunky, geometric case shape. The dial and hands are nice too. Not keen on the strap though.

  • Dan Finch

    Wow they are going super retro, and super expensive! Guess they are abandoning Cartier’s luxury for the masses and going the Patek direction of low volume/high price. Lots of competition from the big boys in this price range….

  • Very nice retro piece. I love it – they got it right. Also, they didn’t ignore the fact that squares are making a comeback. Vintage collectors are snatching them up – the good ones anyway.
    – Adam | Founder of AdamVintage

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