May 31, 2011
by Ariel Adams
The Urwerk UR-202S, aka the Hammerhead, also bears the name “Full Metal Jacket.” The Stanley Kubrick movie reference points to the fact that this Urwerk watch is the first this brand has offered with a metal bracelet. According to Urwerk, bracelets have been part of their plans for a while but for various reasons was never fully realized until now. Components are limited by manufacturing realities which can hinder designs concepts tremendously. Having said that, the UR-202S watch that comes on a bracelet is limited to only 50 pieces.
I first wrote about the Urwerk UR-202S Hammerhead Full Metal Jacket here when debuting it. You can click there for all the technical specs on the pieces. As a follow-up to that article, after seeing the watches hands on, I want to say that this is my favorite Urwerk watch of all time. Specifically the polished steel Urwerk UR-202S. There is something about this finish that frames the intricate details of the watch very well. Dark or black watches are great much of the time, but sometimes I prefer something a bit more airy and defined. That is this model. Furthermore, when coated in black (using AlTin in this case) the watch loses its contrast polishing. The black UR-202S is by all accounts a slick watch but it doesn’t have that polished and brushed mix of finishes. It is all one matte texture.
For a more technical gadgety look the choice piece is the black model. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a more classy look that seeks to blend in (as well as you might want it to) with the world of classic luxury watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Cartier your best bet is the before mentioned favorite of mine. Sure, none of those brands have a case that looks like the Hammerhead but they all do nice very things with polished steel. In fact, speaking of Audemars Piguet, the bracelet of the UR-202S vaguely reminds me of the one on the Royal Oak.
Some people have complained that the bracelet design looks too simple. It is true, this is not an ultra complex watch bracelet from a construction standpoint. It is, however, hand polished and very refined. I think this serves as a bit of an experiment to see if Urwerk wants to go ‘Full Metal Jacket’ more in the future. What I can say is that the bracelet is very comfy and enjoyable to wear.
Overall, the polished steel UR-202S pulls at my heart-strings in a big way. There will only be 25 pieces of each made (50 total) and they will be priced at $145,000 for the polished steel and $150,000 for the black AlTin steel models. The watches contain Urwerks’ amazing satellite hour and minute system with telescopic arms as well as a moon phase indicator and a day/night indicator. The in-house 7.03 movement is an automatic and uses special turbines to regulate (or stop) the spinning of the rotor. The caseback of the watch is in titanium.
Now I have to figure out where I am going to get a spare $145 grand.