July 31, 2022
by Kenny Yeo
There were a couple of major new releases in July. One of the most talked about is Richard Mille’s RM UP-01, which made headlines for its impossibly thin case and questionable design. Another important new release was the Tudor Ranger 79950, which is a faithful homage to a vintage Tudor Oyster Prince watch. Tissot’s PRX has been a resounding success for the brand, and fans have been clamoring for a smaller version, and now it comes in a 35mm.
From around the Web, we take a closer look at A. Lange & Söhne new 1815 Rattrapante Platinum and the Primevère watch from Yosuke Sekiguchi, a new independent Japanese watchmaker. Then, we take a look at a very special vintage Rolex dive watch. Not only is it a “Single Red” Sea-Dweller, but it also happens to have — wait for it — a gas escape valve. Finally, we visit the controversial topic of wait lists. Are they necessary, or are they just obstacles put in place to encourage customers to buy more watches?
One of the most talked-about watches of the past month has to be Richard Mille’s RM UP-01. There are two reasons why. The first is because it now holds the record for the thinnest mechanical watch in the world. Measuring a scant 1.75mm, it’s 0.05mm thinner than the previous record holder, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra. The second is because of its design. Impressively, Richard Mille achieved this feat with a full and separate main plate. What’s not so impressive, however, is how difficult it is to actually read the time and the way it looks. Did Richard Mille go too far in chasing records and disregard some of the most basic tenets of watchmaking?
The PRX watches have been a huge hit for Tissot. However, one often heard criticism about them is that they are too big. With a lug-to-lug measurement of 44mm, it’s certainly true that they are a bit too big for slimmer wrists. Fortunately, Tissot has heard these calls and has given us a 35mm version of the PRX. With its smaller case comes a more manageable lug-to-lug length of 38mm. But because it has an integrated bracelet, even this 35mm version of the PRX wears with commendable wrist presence. It even has 100 meters of water resistance, which means you can take this to the pool. So far, so good, but some enthusiasts think it has a problem. It uses a quartz movement.
The GMWB5000TVA “Virtual Armor” is one of the newest metal square G-Shocks from Casio, and it is easily one of the most striking. It has a tri-tone colorway and an aesthetic that pays homage to Japanese mecha anime. There are labels scattered all across the watch that highlights the watch’s capabilities and special points. For example, there are prominent labels on the bracelet informing you that the watch is made of titanium. And on the bracelet, there’s another label explaining the Multi-Band 6 tech in the watch. There have been many variants of the GMW-B5000, but this will surely go down as one of the coolest.
The success of Top Gun: Maverick has made IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition Lake Tahoe one of the hottest watches right now. Oh, and the fact that it has a striking black and white color scheme might have something to do with that too. When this watch was unveiled earlier this year at Watches & Wonder 2022, many wondered why it was black and white, because those aren’t the colors that necessarily come to mind when you mention Lake Tahoe. Apparently, it’s white because it references the snow on the mountains around Lake Tahoe as seen by the jet pilot students from the nearby Top Gun pilot school. Take a closer look at the watch here.
Critics of Tudor will say it relies too much on vintage-inspired releases, but why stop when that approach has been so successful? So, in celebration of the 70th anniversary of the British North Greenland Expedition that the Tudor Oyster Prince watches were a part of, Tudor has just released the new Tudor Ranger 79950. Featuring 39mm-wide stainless steel cases, the new Tudor Ranger is a rather faithful reissue of the vintage Tudor Oyster Prince watches that were worn on the wrists of the explorers of the expedition. If you’ve been looking for a no-nonsense time-only tool watch, this could be the ticket.