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H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept ‘Minimalist’ Limited Edition Watch

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept 'Minimalist' Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

Is the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept watch’s beautifully simple design enough to merit the sacrifice of easy readability? That is something that is up to each individual who views it to judge. Only ten people, however, will have to think extra hard about whether it is worth their money, as only ten pieces will be produced in this ultra minimalist, white gold limited edition for SIHH 2016, celebrating the tenth anniversary of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar model. The design of the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept watch is stripped down just about as much as possible, and to me, it’s important to view it as a piece of art in addition to a timepiece.

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept 'Minimalist' Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

So what, specifically, has been sacrificed? First, in comparison with the the non-limited Endeavour Perpetual Calendar that we reviewed here, the already clean and elegant design has been “simplified” to an extreme. Basically, the dial only features hands, a date window, and the bare texture of the brand’s signature “fumé” dial. No hour or minute markers of any kind, not even the brand’s logo or any other text.

Further, the running seconds seen on the non-limited Endeavour Perpetual Calendar – which didn’t include a day-of-the-week indication to begin with, as many perpetual calendars do – has been omitted in favor of open dial space. The leap year indicator is also relegated to the caseback, as on the other versions. The effect is certainly aesthetically pleasing. But, it is hard to overlook the sacrifice of practicality, as without even hour indicators, the information is much harder to read.

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept 'Minimalist' Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

While we have seen other modernist designs that forgo the usual markers – it often occurs on basic two- or three-hand watches, like the famous Movado Museum Dial – I have hardly seen such a minimalist design on a watch with additional complications (beyond the date) or at this price point. So it is definitely interesting to see it applied here to a perpetual calendar watch. With Moser’s clever Endeavor perpetual calendar system, it could be said that this is one of the few applications where such a design with no indicators can work.

Again, although not impossible to read, the information displayed (date aside) will require a little time staring at the dial and a little mental effort. This means that the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept watch is probably not ideal for, nor intended to be, a daily-wear piece, meaning that it may spend time off the wrist waiting for some special occasions. And therein lies an issue that future owners should be aware of…

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H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept 'Minimalist' Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

Once set, a perpetual calendar doesn’t need adjustment as long as it continues ticking. But you will need to manually wind the HMC 341 caliber powering the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept at least every seven days, as a winder will not be much use for a manually-wound watch. Seven days is a good power reserve, and the power reserve indicator on the left-hand side of the dial is helpful, but it means that if you spend time wearing your other watches (as this certainly is a watch for collectors), you may return to find your H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept needs to be reset (helpfully, one feature of the movement is that the date can be adjusted in both directions, at least, for when that time comes).

But maybe these issues of legibility and practicality are completely irrelevant and miss the point of this H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept watch. It is beautiful to look at, with a fantastic movement, is very recognizable as H. Moser & Cie., and it does indeed still indicate all the information it promises to – if less than precisely. For some, perhaps, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept watch is just so beautiful that nothing else matters. I’m sure that all ten pieces will find happy homes.

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept 'Minimalist' Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

Aside from the dial, the basic package is unchanged from the standard H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. The case shape and measurements, at 40.8mm wide and 11.1mm thick, along with the ingenious and beautiful HMC 341 movement are the same, and we have discussed those elements in detail in our articles on other versions. H. Moser & Cie. did not provide caseback images for this release, but one can assume that the view is very similar to previous models. As with the version in “Funky Blue” that we covered here, this H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept watch has a case in white gold. I will add, as well, that I like the look of these kudu leather straps they are using.

The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept watch seems like a bit of a departure for the brand that, in my mind, has always been about pragmatic designs and less about “statements,” but I do feel that the design is successful and attractive. Again, only ten pieces will be made, and despite its limited nature, at 60,000 Swiss francs, price for this version is more or less the same as its non-limited siblings. h-moser.com

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  • BrJean

    While it’s still possible to get the month number, power reserve indication seems unusable. How do we know when power is on max or when it’s critically low? A couple of dots on the dial would solve this issue. I think Moser should either mark winding level limits or remove the indication completely.

    • DanW94

      Cool watch. I think the power reserve indicator would become fairly easy to read over time. You’d just have to note the position of the hand when fully wound and fully depleted. Wouldn’t take you long to know exactly where you are. And with a seven day power reserve, you might eventually become adept enough at reading it that you could use it as a day of the week indicator as well. (although that’s a bit of a stretch)
      Or you could just take a sharpie to the bezel to mark the power levels…lol

    • Jeviar Dfirst

      I agreed that they should’ve put the PR indicator on the back as well… Like their another endeavor perpetual… Then you could have an ultimate minimalist watch with beast complication (perpetual calendar) that seems like an usual two handed watch with date.

      • Arunsakh Sachamuneewongse

        It’s not just a matter of putting the PR indicator on the back! Doing so would mean a major redesign of the movement.While I agree that it might be a little difficult to read the power reserve level to begin with, a quick look at their Endeavour perpetual watches will give a very good indication. If you see the normal Endeavour Perpetual watches you’d notice that the up and down is between 9 mark. So keep it little above the 9 mark! Simple 🙂 Btw Love the watch!

  • I_G

    I like minimalist watches but this one looks like they just forgot to print the dial… For e.g. the concept of the Movado Museum watch is clear: the Sun is at 12 and nothing else. This one has a dial with missing print—at least for me.

    Btw, the author name is mega, I tip my hat to the parents.

  • You can call it “minimalist” as much as you’d like, but all I see when looking at the dial is a giant date window. Maybe “minimal” represents the interest in this piece?

  • iamcalledryan

    Gorgeous. Hard to believe that one can run a perpetual on this format, but it’s effortless. The hardest thing to read is the power reserve! I think they should have mirrored the date and gone with an aperture for this model – would have also made less of a case for the “they forgot the numerals” argument.

  • JP. Coqueran

    2016 HAS to be the year that watch makers do away with the date window/wheel, it’s ruining too many beautiful watches. Unless you’re going to do a panoramic date on a design like Lange or G.O. amidst other complications, please just STOP!!! That being said, this whole watch doesn’t work for me, at least as a perpetual calendar… I think I’d rather buy a Movado.

    • Jeviar Dfirst

      You could see their other concept watch, the one before this. They made a three handed watch, with nothing on top beside the hands and their signature fumed dial… Those are really really beautiful

      • Jeviar Dfirst

        Like this one for example, credits to deployant. You could see the whole review at their blog

        • egznyc

          That looks ten times better than the dial on the watch being reviewed. Why? Because there’s no distracting date window. Usually I find them helpful but on a minimalist dial like this it ruins the look.

  • IanE

    I just keep thinking of the expression Reductio ad absurdum.

  • Shinytoys

    It’s so clean…love it.

  • Lurch

    Oh man, this is a disaster. It looks like it is unfinished. In fact, that they never started it. I would rather have the Endeavor Perpetual Calendar mentioned in the article that was reviewed earlier.

  • BNABOD

    big fan of Moser but this is too minimalist for me. a case back shot would have helped a little

  • Raymond Wilkie

    I am a huge fan of the minimalist look on the face of a timepiece ( the face can be so clustered these days, cramming too many unnecessary complications) Sure, if i want to know the exact second i am in i can change my watch to suit my mood ( wouldn’t that be great ? ). In this instance , the date ruins the overall look. I always prattle on about needing a date on any timepiece i buy , but with this example, i could do without it.

    • egznyc

      I completely agree. Most watches could do with a date window – if done well. But this dial is the exception, where less is more. It looks like an open wound on this dial.

  • Beefalope

    I don’t think there’s a more underrated high-end watchmaker out there right now than H. Moser. I’ve seen their entry-level offerings compared to entry-level Pateks. Not only are the H. Moser watches more affordable, they’re just flat-out better.

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